Handlebar / lever setup
rumbataz
Posts: 796
I've never loosened the bolts on my hybrid's straight handlebar or adjusted the position of the brake/gear-change levers.
Is there a methodology to doing this? I'm confident enough to tackle this kind of thing now. I understand the importance of the correct torque settings when tightening the bolts up again but want to know where the angle of the handlebar should be and the correct positioning of the levers.
The bike apparently has SRAM TRX gear shifters and the braking system is Tektro Auriga Comp. The handlebar is a GT Oversize handlebar.
Is there a methodology to doing this? I'm confident enough to tackle this kind of thing now. I understand the importance of the correct torque settings when tightening the bolts up again but want to know where the angle of the handlebar should be and the correct positioning of the levers.
The bike apparently has SRAM TRX gear shifters and the braking system is Tektro Auriga Comp. The handlebar is a GT Oversize handlebar.
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Handlebar rotation is personal preference, I usually start off with mine rotated so the backsweep is maximised inline with my forearms (not horizontally).
Brake levers, a good place to start is so that in your normal riding position with your fingers straight thay just lay on top of the levers.
Shifters to preference and how they fit in with the brakes!Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
I've never loosened the bolts on my hybrid's straight handlebar or adjusted the position of the brake/gear-change levers.
Is there a methodology to doing this? I'm confident enough to tackle this kind of thing now. I understand the importance of the correct torque settings when tightening the bolts up again but want to know where the angle of the handlebar should be and the correct positioning of the levers.
The bike apparently has SRAM TRX gear shifters and the braking system is Tektro Auriga Comp. The handlebar is a GT Oversize handlebar.
Loosen them SLIGHTLY, so they will move with a bit of a tug, take it for a spin and pull ?push them in to the most comfortable position. then lock them again0 -
No, don't lock them, that's a bad idea. Enough to hold them in place and then a tad more for the levers and controls0
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No, don't lock them, that's a bad idea. Enough to hold them in place and then a tad more.
That's what to lock means. Ie it will no longer move.
here is the definition
lock verb (BECOME FIXED)
› to become fixed in one position:
http://dictionary.cambridge.org/dictionary/english/lock0 -
Cheers, all. I've never adjust the handlebar/lever positions before. I've just focused on the seat height and position. I have noticed when I'm cycling that the hands on the grips are upturned for the levers so I think I need to turn them down a little.0
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No, don't lock them, that's a bad idea. Enough to hold them in place and then a tad more.
That's what to lock means. Ie it will no longer move.
here is the definition
lock verb (BECOME FIXED)
› to become fixed in one position:
http://dictionary.cambridge.org/dictionary/english/lock
Stolen from another thread.You are very painful.
You want some possible movement, so when you stack it they rotate around the bars instead of being destroyed,I don't do smileys.
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Parktools0 -
Meh....I "lock" mine on tight, never had a problem, if I crash and they break then so be it, prob more chance of breaking my neck and never worry about that!!
I found a really good video online that showed how to set up bars/levers - made a big difference as mine was set up all wrong for me, IIRC involved sitting on bike and setting up levers so they follow a line down from your shoulder and taking into consideration that majority of hard braking is done standing up, bar sweep to suit angle of wrists......shifters just where they feel comfortable. Also move levers inboard to allow good grip and one finger braking.
I have my levers rotated quite far down as I prefer better control when standing but that's just me0 -
Set up the brake levers and shift levers this morning. All working great, so many thanks for the advice offered in this thread.0
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Glad it helped, it's worth riding for a few days and then making any smaller tweaks you feel may help and reassesing.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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Don't lock levers. As above, just tighten them enough to keep them in place but allow them to move rather than break if you fall off. You will then be able to reposition them and continue with your ride.
JGTR is talking rubbish. There is absolutely no reason to lock the levers tight on to the bars.Transition Patrol - viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=130702350 -
Don't lock levers. As above, just tighten them enough to keep them in place but allow them to move rather than break if you fall off. You will then be able to reposition them and continue with your ride.
JGTR is talking rubbish. There is absolutely no reason to lock the levers tight on to the bars.
Lol I'm not talking rubbish at all, just saying what I do and that it has never caused me a problem. You do what you like fella
I actually torque them up properly and they don't move at all. 0 -
They should be loose enough to move in an impact rather than break. If you have a fall 20 miles away from the car-park or home etc then you want to do all you can to make sure that the important bits on your bike don't get damaged.
Several times I have had big crashes in a race and jump back on my bike and finish the race. The levers might have moved but at least they are still working.
I learnt this the expensive way by bending the lever body of a SRAM XX Trail brake. Not over tightening the lever would have saved me over £200Transition Patrol - viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=130702350 -
They should be loose enough to move in an impact rather than break. If you have a fall 20 miles away from the car-park or home etc then you want to do all you can to make sure that the important bits on your bike don't get damaged.
Several times I have had big crashes in a race and jump back on my bike and finish the race. The levers might have moved but at least they are still working.
I learnt this the expensive way by bending the lever body of a SRAM XX Trail brake. Not over tightening the lever would have saved me over £200
Fair point, you probably (well I'm sure) ride to a much higher standard than me, I just don't want the worry of things moving when I don't want them to or working loose, although I carry tools so could just relighted it if it did work loose.0 -
They won't move around. Doesn't matter what your standard of riding is, everyone falls off.Transition Patrol - viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=130702350
