The effect of removing spacers and shortening stem?
StinkinHippy
Posts: 160
Newbie question time again I'm afraid.
My bike currently has like 15mm of spacers under the stem.. In my mind removing these would lean me a little further forward when in the saddle effectively giving a slightly longer feel to the cockpit, and while standing would leave my arms a bit more stretched,Is my thinking anywhere close to what I would actually achieve? If I go ahead and do this, do I just cut the steerer level with the top of where my stem would then sit, or do I cut a little below top of stem?
Shortening the stem, from what I understand of what I've read, speeds up the feel of steering, but what does it do with regards to the feel of length in the cockpit, or I guess what I'm asking is if I remove spacers and shorten the stem, would the 2 almost cancel each other out while improving low speed cornering?
Babbling again, so if you need clarification on what I'm asking, just ask
Thanks for the help
My bike currently has like 15mm of spacers under the stem.. In my mind removing these would lean me a little further forward when in the saddle effectively giving a slightly longer feel to the cockpit, and while standing would leave my arms a bit more stretched,Is my thinking anywhere close to what I would actually achieve? If I go ahead and do this, do I just cut the steerer level with the top of where my stem would then sit, or do I cut a little below top of stem?
Shortening the stem, from what I understand of what I've read, speeds up the feel of steering, but what does it do with regards to the feel of length in the cockpit, or I guess what I'm asking is if I remove spacers and shorten the stem, would the 2 almost cancel each other out while improving low speed cornering?
Babbling again, so if you need clarification on what I'm asking, just ask
Thanks for the help
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Comments
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TRy it out by putting the spacers on top of the stem. No cutting needed.
Read Parktools before you cut - the steerer needs to be below the top of the stem/spacers to be able to tension the headset.I don't do smileys.
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Parktools0 -
So by removing the spacers I lose a little braaap. But can regain it all by shortening stem.. Seems about what I was thinking, lol.
Bike pic for any who doubt my braaap calculations.
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Don't forget to add blue valve caps to capitalise on the increased speed....take your pickelf on your holibobs....
jeez :roll:0 -
So by removing the spacers I lose a little braaap. But can regain it all by shortening stem.. Seems about what I was thinking, lol.
Bike pic for any who doubt my braaap calculations.
I think your making it over complicated ? you can mess about with it it to your hearts content with out cutting the steerer at all or at least until you are satisfied. As with most adaptations, if you gain in one area you will loose in another. Make sure its what you want otherwise you will be buying new folks to get it back to standard, either because its not what you expected or to sell it to someone who doesnt want what you do out of the bike0 -
Yeah I was always going to give it a test run with the spacers on top. Was just posing the question to see if my brainwork was way way off 0
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Yeah I was always going to give it a test run with the spacers on top. Was just posing the question to see if my brainwork was way way off
I dont think you can do it by ''calculation'' as until you try it you dont know what it will be like and no the removal of the spacer and the shortened stem will all most certainly not cancel each other out. Indeed if they did there would be no point doing it as it would be just the same as before ?0 -
So by removing the spacers I lose a little braaap. But can regain it all by shortening stem.. Seems about what I was thinking, lol.
Bike pic for any who doubt my braaap calculations.
Looking at the photo you have your seat set quite far back on the seatpost which already has a decent layback to start with. I have uber long thighs and have my seat set much further forward on my Boardman ( same seatpost ). My guess is your seat is too low, the saddle set back to give your legs room and the bars too high ( a bit like riding a chopper ). Basically set up with your whole body rotated to far backwards around the bottom bracket.
I recon seat up and further forward. Stem flipped upside down and then probably loose some spacers. Then think about stem length after. My guess is with you rotated forward you may even want to keep whats already on.0 -
Dropping the bars will put more weight on the front wheel when out of the saddle and lower your c of g. Fitting a shorter stem will have a similar effect.Transition Patrol - viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=130702350
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YesDropping the bars will put more weight on the front wheel when out of the saddle and lower your c of g.
But it would be the opposite, a short stem will move weight back more than down thus lightening the front wheel.Fitting a shorter stem will have a similar effect.0 -
Looking at the photo you have your seat set quite far back on the seatpost which already has a decent layback to start with. I have uber long thighs and have my seat set much further forward on my Boardman ( same seatpost ). My guess is your seat is too low, the saddle set back to give your legs room and the bars too high ( a bit like riding a chopper ). Basically set up with your whole body rotated to far backwards around the bottom bracket.
I recon seat up and further forward. Stem flipped upside down and then probably loose some spacers. Then think about stem length after. My guess is with you rotated forward you may even want to keep whats already on.
Hmm, okay.. Will have a play with that and see how it feels next ride.
I've tried shifting all the spacers to above the stem for the time being.. Feels better, but has left me thinking about wider bars on the same stem. Think that's my next course of action.0 -
And don't cut the stearer if there isn't a need, keep the resale options open if you decide to upgrade at any point0
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And don't cut the stearer if there isn't a need, keep the resale options open if you decide to upgrade at any point
Think I'd rather lose a few quid on resale than the inch of spacers that are now on top of the stem 0 -
I recon seat up and further forward. Stem flipped upside down and then probably loose some spacers. Then think about stem length after. My guess is with you rotated forward you may even want to keep whats already on.
Turns out to be great advice. Raised the saddle and moved it forwards on the rail for today's ride. Need to adjust the tilt angle some before next ride, but was extremely comfortable in the saddle otherwise.
Haven't flipped the stem as yet. But all the spacers are currently on top of the stem.. think wider bars will finish it off just fine 0 -
I recon seat up and further forward. Stem flipped upside down and then probably loose some spacers. Then think about stem length after. My guess is with you rotated forward you may even want to keep whats already on.
Turns out to be great advice. Raised the saddle and moved it forwards on the rail for today's ride. Need to adjust the tilt angle some before next ride, but was extremely comfortable in the saddle otherwise.
Haven't flipped the stem as yet. But all the spacers are currently on top of the stem.. think wider bars will finish it off just fine
You are welcome.
If you measure the height of your bars off the floor you may find you can flip your stem and still keep the same bar height. The advantage being a lot of the spacers can go back below the stem. I never feel comfortable with a big lump of steerer tube sticking up.
Many years ago a mate of mine burst his appendix on the oversized wing nut / bolt on a light fitting that was sticking up on his bars. It's made me a bit wary since.0
