Are there different types of disc brake pads?

rumbataz
rumbataz Posts: 796
edited November 2015 in Road buying advice
I'm mainly a petrolhead and in the car world some of us often upgrade the brake pads on our cars to better than OEM ones or ones for a specific purpose.

Is the same true in the cycle world? If I wanted to change the pads on my Tektro Auriga Comp brakes on the hybrid, would I be able to get 'better' ones than the factory-fitted ones?

I've looked at a few online retailers and couldn't find much info about different types of brake pads. Having watched a few YouTube videos and downloaded the instructions from Tektro, it looks like it's really easy to change them so I want to do that as they're still on the original pads and the braking isn't that great at the moment.

On a separate note, I also learned now my LBS 'aligned' the pads (they made a big deal out of it) - all they had to do was loosen the caliper mounting bolts and squeeze the brake lever and then tighten the mounting bolts on the calipers again. They seemed to make out that it was a really big deal for them.

Comments

  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    There are organic pads which wear quickly but are cheap. Sintered which are great for all weather use but can squeal. There are downhill specific compounds which don't fade but these are use by endure or DH racers.

    EBC make pads for bikes. You will be familiar with these.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • rumbataz
    rumbataz Posts: 796
    ^ Many thanks for the explanation. And, yes, I'm very familiar with EBC pads for cars. I found a company on eBay who make replacement brake pads for cycle disc brakes (Uberbike Components) and they appear to offer varying types of brake pads from fairly cheap through to Kevlar ones, through to 'race' performance ones so I might order from them.
  • ddraver
    ddraver Posts: 26,388
    I think you maybe overthinking it a bit - sintered or organic is the main difference. As CC says, organic perform better but wear quickly (especially in bad conditions, and especially if they are not bedded in properly first). Sintered last longer and deal with bad conditions better but tend to have less good feel. If you buy any decent brand you ll be fine (ie like most things if every other brand costs 20 quid, the ones for a fiver won't be good). If you really want to spend big bucks then go swisspower but you'd be better off making sure everything on the disk is working properly and clean.

    The race specific ones will mean one DH run (5 mins) will kill them
    We're in danger of confusing passion with incompetence
    - @ddraver
  • rumbataz
    rumbataz Posts: 796
    You're right, I should post this stuff in MTB. Will do in the future. Cheers for the info.
  • Well, yes, the MTB forum will give you a view but with an MTB slant (obviously) - MTBs tend to have different brake set-ups and needs. I've been riding disc on the road for about 5 years and wouldn't bother with anything other than good organic pads. That's very different than what I'd do for my MTB. Wear is far less of an issue on the road (far less sand and mud that kill pads) whereas discs are smaller and squeal is probably more irritating.

    As with your car analogy, choosing the right pad depends on use - you probably wouldn't ask 4x4 green-laners advice for pads for a Caterham race car (crude analogy but you get the point)
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • rumbataz
    rumbataz Posts: 796
    My hybrid is almost exclusively for road and dedicated cycle path use - it doesn't really get dirty other than wet sometimes - maybe the odd spatter of dirt and small leaves.

    My average speed on a ride is currently around 20kmh (which is around 12mph). Max speed doesn't usually go over 40kmh (around 25mph). I'd say it's mostly a leisurely/recreational ride but I do push myself at various points of the route to go as fast as I can just to get some fitness benefit.

    I did a stupid thing a while back and managed to get GT85 all over the brakes and they hardly worked at all for a couple of rides and now the performance is very poor.
  • ddraver
    ddraver Posts: 26,388
    Then you need new pads - the one major problem with disk brakes is how easy they are to contaminate. Give the discs a really good clean with alcohol and then replace the pads.
    We're in danger of confusing passion with incompetence
    - @ddraver
  • grenw
    grenw Posts: 803
    You could try sanding them. Sometimes, although not often, it works. Alcohol on the rotors is a good call though but only after you've sorted the pads.

    Always bought mine from Superstar and gone for the kevlar ones - a balance between organic and sintered. This is for mtb use though so your choice will depend on needs - stopping power or longevity.
  • I use Uberbike sintered pads on the tractor. Just ordered a replacement set for the winter.
  • rumbataz
    rumbataz Posts: 796
    So I ended up with four pairs of Race Matrix pads from Uberbike at a very good price - £30 for four pairs, so £7.50 for a pair. They seem to be a good balance between stopping power and longevity. I still have to fit them at the weekend.

    I have a question about cleaning the calipers before fitting the new ones. Is it just a matter of removing the old pads, spraying some degreaser into the calipers and wiping clean and dry?