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Custom Winter Commuter

meanredspidermeanredspider Posts: 12,550
edited November 2015 in Commuting chat
Another thought I've been having is a custom winter weather/ice commuter. It would have

26" wheels for Ice Spiker Pros (tubeless I guess too)
Disc brakes obviously
Rigid fork
Di2 (maybe even Alfine) because it doesn't freeze or get crappy with salt.

Dunno if anything even vaguely like this exists or whether I'd need to build it from scratch...
ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH

Posts

  • DrLexDrLex Posts: 2,142
    Location: ciderspace

  • Apart from the "wonderful" name, £3,600....!!! And that's in the basic form.

    I was actually thinking of a simple MTB frame, paired with rigid forks, some lightish 26" wheels, Ice Spikers, probably flat bars (when it's icy, it's rarely windy and the tyres will limit progress) and then a broad ranged Di2 gear set (Alfine and belt drive would probably be optimum) - I'd be targeting £1000 maybe £1500 tops
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • Genesis Caribu? Sort of half-fat, but really thought about for snow. Mechanical disks don't get frozen fluid and 1x10 gearing at least gets rid of the frozen front mech.
  • dhopedhope Posts: 6,699
    Well it doesn't quite meet your spec. Not at all in fact.
    It's too expensive, has 650c wheels, front suspension and no Di2 (but is Di2 'ready'). But it's still pretty interesting

    Cannondale Slate
    http://www.cannondale.com/en/International/Bike/ProductDetail?Id=0033c523-2f63-4738-987c-5903881c7ea8
    Rose Xeon CW Disc
    CAAD12 Disc
    Condor Tempo
  • 6wheels6wheels Posts: 411
    Just built this Flyxii cyclo-x (602) frame up as a winter bike...

    http://i1070.photobucket.com/albums/u500/77712/FLYXII/IMG_20151121_132850_zpsib66zsuh.jpg

    Spec.
    Rival 1 with 11-36 cassette
    Trp mechanical disc brakes
    Crosslight tubeless wheels

    I'm going to change the tyres to Black Mamba's 34mm tubeless, thought I'd be able to run the Clement tubeless but they're a bit loose on the rims.

    If Sram ever decide to reduce the wireless mech to a reasonable price, I'll change over to that.

    For £350 (frame,forks,seatpost and headset) delivered in ten days, door to door, can't complain, the only gripe being the front fork dropouts are quite thick, means using a longer than normal skewer. I had the BSA bottom bracket version, so, together with the mudguard eyelets , it is pretty much winterproofed. Regarding tyre size, I think that you'd be able to get over 45mm to fit maybe even 50mm.

    I've spent £1250 on this build and had saddle,stem and pedals in stock, and one has to add the satisfaction of building a custom bike to the list (which I hadn't done for about 25 years). I can't comment on the bike out on the road as I've had the lurgy for a couple of weeks, but reading on other forums it will be good enough for me.

    Plenty of other frame options available,meaning lots to contemplate.
  • DrLexDrLex Posts: 2,142

    Apart from the "wonderful" name, £3,600....!!! And that's in the basic form.

    I was actually thinking of a simple MTB frame, paired with rigid forks, some lightish 26" wheels, Ice Spikers, probably flat bars (when it's icy, it's rarely windy and the tyres will limit progress) and then a broad ranged Di2 gear set (Alfine and belt drive would probably be optimum) - I'd be targeting £1000 maybe £1500 tops

    To be fair, it's a hand-made frame with Rohloff hub & Gates belt drive. How about ordering a pair of Alfine hubs, one Di2 and one Dynamo from Germany and getting wheels made up here - say £600, then either swapping in to a s/h bike or building up from spares/parts? Rose bikes have a flat-barred, hub-geared bike, "Black Lava" at either £1500 or £2200 (Alfine vs Rohloff) but it looks to lack the clearance for spikers/wide rubber.
    Location: ciderspace
  • iPeteiPete Posts: 6,076
    There were some Genesis Day One Alfine Di2s knocking around for 1k earlier this year. You can get 700c spike tyres.
  • There were some Genesis Day One Alfine Di2s knocking around for 1k earlier this year. You can get 700c spike tyres.

    I haven't yet found a good and light-ish 700c tyre. The Marathon W***ers have had me sliding on my censored before now and, at around 1kg each, that's censored . I'm an Ice Spiker Pro folding man - 695g and 361 spikes at 26" (they're close on 1kg at 29")

    I'm also not yet sure how much I'm going to use an ice commuter - the Highlands was 4-5 months. I might be as well to take the car and turbo
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • There were some Genesis Day One Alfine Di2s knocking around for 1k earlier this year. You can get 700c spike tyres.

    I haven't yet found a good and light-ish 700c tyre. The Marathon W***ers have had me sliding on my ars* before now and, at around 1kg each, that's censored . I'm an Ice Spiker Pro folding man - 695g and 361 spikes at 26" (they're close on 1kg at 29")

    I'm also not yet sure how much I'm going to use an ice commuter - the Highlands was 4-5 months. I might be as well to take the car and turbo

    The Suomi ones are great in 26", they do plenty for 700c. I have the W106 on my MTB, which are available in 700c.
  • itboffinitboffin Posts: 19,765
    There were some Genesis Day One Alfine Di2s knocking around for 1k earlier this year. You can get 700c spike tyres.

    I haven't yet found a good and light-ish 700c tyre. The Marathon W***ers have had me sliding on my ars* before now and, at around 1kg each, that's censored . I'm an Ice Spiker Pro folding man - 695g and 361 spikes at 26" (they're close on 1kg at 29")

    I'm also not yet sure how much I'm going to use an ice commuter - the Highlands was 4-5 months. I might be as well to take the car and turbo

    If you can find some Vredestein tricomp are the nuts, I did my first Rapha HOTN on them and still ride the same pair today although I did just put a slash in them which I'll patch tomorrow, tread and grip is second to none. I just hope the new version is at least as good.
    Rule #5 // Harden The censored Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • Why choose a rigid fork? I like having the suspension unlocked in snow and ice, with the idea that it should give better traction. And once the ice gets rutted, it's worse than tree roots.
    Snow is hard work, so you will probably want the low gearing that an MTB gives, and shifters that can be used wearing really thick gloves.
    I can see the advantages of Di2 to avoid frozen cables, but I would go with cassette not Alfine, so that when one sprocket is clogged with compressed snow, you can change to a clear one and get a bit further before having to stop and bang the snow off.
    In short, a normal MTB.
  • Rigid fork because most of the riding will be on icy roads rather than snow - we don't get much snow. Same goes for the derailleur - the issue is salt as much as anything and the gears that get used least tend to get rusty because of salt. I used a standard MTB for quite a few winters in the highlands be these were my findings. A 1x11 set-up would be OK but, again, the extreme gears wouldn't see much action.
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • veronese68veronese68 Posts: 23,432 Lives Here
    Not quite what you're talking about here, but censored put this in the bargains thread:
    Practically all PX frames are 40% off at the moment. RTD80 and 90 etc. Great if you're building a bike up.

    Anyone considering a gravel bike could do worse than this:

    http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/FRTOMO/tomac-montezuma-carbon-adventure---gravel-road-frameset
    Can you fit 650b wheels with larger tyres into that frame? If so you can get Ice Spiker Pro in 650, that might work.
  • Hi, good project. You may want to look for a cyclocross bike which can take Di2. There are lots of heavily studded 700c tyres and they roll better out of ruts than 26". I agree with you about the Schwalbe tyres but there are some great 700c Nokians which I find better than the Ice Spikers for road use.

    MTB with fat tyres is incredibly hard work in snow and a drop bar cross bike might be a little more pleasant.

    Your problem is budget because Di2 gruppo will cost a lot, even if you go for cheap chainset and brakes etc

    Please let us know how you get on. Alan
  • I know exactly how hard 26" Ice Spiker Pros are to ride - I did 4 winters on 30-mile (plus) round trips on them. What they are, though, is fantastic on ice: totally reliable. I don't plan to tackle snow - there's just not enough of it to worry about. If there's a great 700c Nokian (that doesn't weigh a tonne), I'd love to give them a go - especially as I've just bought a Jamis Renegade Elite. Di2 Alfine is pretty cheap from the German sites - I just need enough gearing to get me up the short, sharp, shocks around here.
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • I know exactly how hard 26" Ice Spiker Pros are to ride - I did 4 winters on 30-mile (plus) round trips on them. What they are, though, is fantastic on ice: totally reliable. I don't plan to tackle snow - there's just not enough of it to worry about. If there's a great 700c Nokian (that doesn't weigh a tonne), I'd love to give them a go - especially as I've just bought a Jamis Renegade Elite. Di2 Alfine is pretty cheap from the German sites - I just need enough gearing to get me up the short, sharp, shocks around here.

    Nice work!

    Nokian are now Sumoi tyres for bikes:

    http://www.suomityres.com/eng/tyres/?code=T200281&type=winter#specs_winter

    The W106 that I run on the MTB I've found to be totally reliable (never a deflation either, but I am using Panaracer Flataways on them). They're 890g each, not light but really tough (and I've never lost a stud in two years). Studs only in the center, but you really need to be leaning into a corner quite a bit for that to matter.
  • The RookieThe Rookie Posts: 27,748
    My year round commuter uses a Carrera Gryphon frame with 26" wheels (1x9 gearing which has survived with only normal maintenance for 4 winters so far), 9Kg before rack and guards.

    You could get and update a Carrera Subway8, that is an 8 speed nexus hub gear with coaster brakes as stock!

    Cotic Roadrat with hub gear perhaps?

    There are many many ways of doing what you want!

  • There are many many ways of doing what you want!

    That's really exactly the problem. I wish I had a start point like a frame that begins to pin me down on a solution. I think I'm just lurking now to see if a cracking deal comes up. I am also holding fire to see what winter here is like.
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • pblakeneypblakeney Posts: 14,158

    There are many many ways of doing what you want!

    That's really exactly the problem. I wish I had a start point like a frame that begins to pin me down on a solution. I think I'm just lurking now to see if a cracking deal comes up. I am also holding fire to see what winter here is like.
    The weather people say you will get a rough idea this weekend.
    The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
    I am not sure. You have no chance.
    veronese68 wrote:
    PB is the most sensible person on here.
  • The RookieThe Rookie Posts: 27,748

    There are many many ways of doing what you want!

    That's really exactly the problem.
    And why we can't give you an answer!

    I think personally I'd start with a Roadrat frame and go from there.

    I don't see an issue with using properly cared for normal derailleur for gear shifting either!

  • There are many many ways of doing what you want!

    That's really exactly the problem.
    And why we can't give you an answer!

    I think personally I'd start with a Roadrat frame and go from there.

    I don't see an issue with using properly cared for normal derailleur for gear shifting either!

    The only answer I was looking for was if there's already something out there that fits the bill and it seems there isn't - so I have my answer :wink: I just now need to figure out where to start my own build and the Roadrat might be the place, thanks

    I can tell you've never had your derailleur freeze - I even used Gore Ride-On gear cables but the derailleur itself freezes and the spring isn't strong enough to overcome that whereas Di2 will manage that.
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • The RookieThe Rookie Posts: 27,748
    Nope never had it freeze, and yes I ride through the shitty winter, not had it on my MTB either although I did have the freehub freeze the once.
  • I have had freezing front derailer if it's been very wet, and then I've climbed up higher/colder but only the front and once in a blue moon, and a nudge has cleared the ice.

    if it's very wet with varable temps I could see it could happen but most of the time it's below zero so no/little water to freeze or it's warm enough it's water and not freezing or if so very slowly.

    some bikes do suffer more that others with derailer postions and what not. my old MTB (hardtail) picked up very little mud etc around the derailers where as the new MTB (full suspention) does pick up quite a lot, doesn't stop it working though.
  • The issue with winter commuting is that it might be freezing in the morning and just wet in the evening (especially in the Highlands where icy mornings are from Nov to late April/early May) Water gets everywhere. Then I find the cooling effect of fast descents is what often does it. In the days when I ran V-brakes, I've had those freeze too. The front derailleur on MTBs is in line for all the muck and bullets - I have up an inner tube flap to cover it which is 95% effective.
    Believe me, I've tried all sorts and wouldn't be looking to do something different if the previous approaches had worked.
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • I think when it's really, really cold, somethings is going to freeze. One morning at -14°C and 8 inches of snow the freewheel on my single-speed (bought explicitly for ice and snow) froze open meaning that the pedals turned but not the rear wheel. Cue a 4 mile walk to the nearest bike shop and a fixed cog.

    Got to work and one of the mountain bikers in the office asked me why I hadn't just peed on it. That's the difference between roadies and mountain bikers right there.

    I'd worry it would have frozen solid.
  • I think when it's really, really cold, somethings is going to freeze. One morning at -14°C and 8 inches of snow the freewheel on my single-speed (bought explicitly for ice and snow) froze open meaning that the pedals turned but not the rear wheel. Cue a 4 mile walk to the nearest bike shop and a fixed cog.

    Got to work and one of the mountain bikers in the office asked me why I hadn't just peed on it. That's the difference between roadies and mountain bikers right there.

    I'd worry it would have frozen solid.

    had that happen a few times in bushy park, normally go though a puddle etc and the freewheel would freeze, so you'd get no drive, never had that happen with cassettes thus far.
  • I think I'd rather have done the long walk than exposed myself to -14C :shock: :lol:

    But it is these sorts of temps (-5 and below) that these sorts of issues occur.
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • Another thought I've been having is a custom winter weather/ice commuter. It would have

    26" wheels for Ice Spiker Pros (tubeless I guess too)
    Disc brakes obviously
    Rigid fork
    Di2 (maybe even Alfine) because it doesn't freeze or get crappy with salt.

    Dunno if anything even vaguely like this exists or whether I'd need to build it from scratch...

    what about something like this?

    http://www.bikeradar.com/road/gear/category/bikes/urban/product/review-canyon-urban-7-0-16-49881/

    it's not 26, but ice spikers pros come in 27.5 assuming the Canyon has the clearance, which would depend on what magic ruler Schwalbe had used in making the Ice spiker pros.
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