Washing advice - Sportful Light No Rain jacket
zak3737
Posts: 370
Time to wash my Sportful Light No Rain jacket, but before I do, can anyone impart any advice as to what I should use so as to not ruin the rain repellant coating etc ?
Only says 30* wash on label, but an I right in thinking that normal washing powder/liq is best avoided ?
What special solutions do you all use for this kind of thing pls ?
Ta
Only says 30* wash on label, but an I right in thinking that normal washing powder/liq is best avoided ?
What special solutions do you all use for this kind of thing pls ?
Ta
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Comments
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I have been using this jacket for over a year now and tbh I wash it every time I wear it along with the rest of my kit. 30 degrees and with usual powder and softener.
It is no longer no rain though! So perhaps no detergents is a good thing. I do still love the jacket as even after it loses its "no rain"-ness it's still a great layer.BikeRadar Communities Manager0 -
I would recommend not using softener on anything breathable, and especially not anything waterproof.
I use a non-bio detergent on my stuff normally, but wash and reproof my jackets with rapha's two stage wash and reproofer (I'm sure similar from grangers etc would achieve the same results).0 -
Most cycling kit says no bleaching agents and no softeners on the care label, presumably because they bugger the Lycra component. Some also say no biologicals, which as a biologist I find perplexing.
Halo Sports Wash is frequently mentioned in these fora; no personal experience.
I usually go for a quick 15 min 30c wash with bog standard Persil but leave out the conditioner. Not yet tried that with anything possessing water repellant properties though.
Maybe I'll buy some proper stuff before I try washing the GoreTex...0 -
I wash it every time I wear it along with the rest of my kit. 30 degrees and with usual powder and softener..
OP please don't do this.
Don't use fabric softner on cycling kit - or any sports kit.0 -
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If it's anything like the Gabba (and let's face it Sportful and Castelli are practically the same company) then washing in a good 'sports wash' first and then washing or spraying on a re-proofer should return all or most of the water-shedding properties.
I use Nikwax products for both:
http://www.nikwax.com/en-gb/products/productdetail.php?productid=4)
Or Graingers do the same sort of stuff.
It is also recommended that you run a cool iron over it afterwards, and this is also supposed to be an interim measure when reproofing isn't needed that much (or even tumble drying, but I don't have a tumble dryer so never tried this).0 -
Thx all, yeh washing due to it smelling slightly 'worn' ! Only been used in anger on 1 wet occasion so far, but a few summer evenings, so before its put away for most of the winter, thought it deserved a wash. That said, I think it could be ideal for carying over the winter, and slinging on over a windproof top if rain appears.
I didnt think before, but some advice on the Sportful website actually, and they specifically say non Bio and No softeners etc.
Also recommend Nikwax & Grangers stuff, amongst others, so I think I'll go with Nikwax as mentioned, and the Re-Proofer.
The No Rain top is great, but tbh, I wouldnt like to put an iron near the material, too risky, or for that matter, Tumble Dry. Christ, its snug already ! ;-)
Thx fellas.0 -
To get the best out of a re re proofing you need to activate what you washed in or sprayed on and this is best done by heat. My tip is to put the iron on one dot/lowest setting and place a thin piece of fabric (or a shirt) over the top of the jacket and then iron on the face of the fabric - the outside. I use this for my Rapha Race Cape and DWR coated bits of kit that can't be tumble dried on low heat like Gore stuff.0
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To get the best out of a re re proofing you need to activate what you washed in or sprayed on and this is best done by heat. My tip is to put the iron on one dot/lowest setting and place a thin piece of fabric (or a shirt) over the top of the jacket and then iron on the face of the fabric - the outside. I use this for my Rapha Race Cape and DWR coated bits of kit that can't be tumble dried on low heat like Gore stuff.
Thx - I'll be careful !0 -
used to always use non-bio on a 30 degrees wash but found after a while it didnt fully get rid of sweaty smell...tried that Halo and it works a trick. A bottle lasts a while as you dont need that much and everything comes out clean and smelling good on a 30 degree sport wash.0
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I emailed the importers last year after I bought the same jacket - they recommended washing at 30 degrees in Halo Sportswash, then occasionally giving it a spray with Grangers XT Proofer when still damp then allow to drip dry. Works well.Titus Silk Road Ti rigid 29er - Scott Solace 10 disc - Kinesis Crosslight Pro6 disc - Scott CR1 SL - Pinnacle Arkose X 650b - Pinnacle Arkose singlespeed - Specialized Singlecross...& an Ernie Ball Musicman Stingray 4 string...0
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Turn the garment inside out and do up all zips. Wash with Halo or a non-bio detergent, on 30 degrees delicate wash. Short and gentle spin.
Air dry on a clothes horse or similar. DON'T hang on radiators or use the dryer.0 -
To not affect the waterproof coating (dwr) on windstopper/goretex etc, detergents should be avoided although they do clean more thoroughly. Soap based liquids are the thing to use (nikwax/grangers). Tesco sells its own brand of waterproof clothing wash which seems very good and cheaper. You can use less of it than the instructions indicate with good results-so even cheaper.0
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Pure soap chrystals, if you can still find it. Melt in hot water, then pour into washing machine powder drawer. Same as using Granger's, Nikwax etc at a tenth of the price.0
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...you ll be surprised what just a water wash will do too, especially if it's something that you need to wash for mud's sake rather than smell
YOu can save the expensive cleaner for when the smell gets a bit too strong then. I found the giant bottle of the assoss cleaner online for cheap sometime back in spring and it's still going. That would be fine on waterproof/DWR too.We're in danger of confusing passion with incompetence
- @ddraver0 -
Just got back from Tesco with a bottle of their stuff as recommended by jermas above. Will give it a go and report back...0
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Tesco own-brand Expert Sports and Workwear wash isn't half bad, works well in a cold wash and isn't dear.0
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NO SOFTENER!
Otherwise as label says - 30°C wash - Halo/Nikwax/Grangers all better than regular detergent but if not use non bio. You can reproof it with various stuff from aforementioned brands, and a low heat tumble helps a bit too.0 -
Same applies to Asda own brand sportswash.Tesco own-brand Expert Sports and Workwear wash isn't half bad, works well in a cold wash and isn't dear.0 -
Other brands are available.
Same applies to Asda own brand sportswash.Tesco own-brand Expert Sports and Workwear wash isn't half bad, works well in a cold wash and isn't dear.
I believe that to be the standard announcement.The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
I am not sure. You have no chance.Veronese68 wrote:PB is the most sensible person on here.0 -
As far as I have found (and I've looked a lot) Halo, Tesco & Asda are the only ones on generally available, widespread sale in the UK. Happy to hear of others.
Other brands are available.
Same applies to Asda own brand sportswash.Tesco own-brand Expert Sports and Workwear wash isn't half bad, works well in a cold wash and isn't dear.
I believe that to be the standard announcement.0
