Sticking shifters.

jamski
jamski Posts: 737
edited November 2015 in MTB workshop & tech
So both my gear shifters and now sticking. Started of with the left hand and now they're both doing it. I've slacked off the cables and they're still the same. Moved the housing along and cable and lubed underneath and generally tried to clean the as much as I can.

They're deore shifters with a deore rear mech and an acera front mech. Is it just most likely crap oem cables and housing?

Cheers.
Daddy, Husband, Designer, Biker, Gamer, Geek
Bird Aeris 120 | Boardman Team 650b | Boardman Pro FS | Calibre Two.two

Comments

  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Yes....

    Well not if the shifters really are sticking or is that just a crap description of the gears not changing up when you change gear?
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • jamski
    jamski Posts: 737
    [url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19743304#p19743304]The Rookie[/url] wrote:
    Yes....

    Well not if the shifters really are sticking or is that just a crap description of the gears not changing up when you change gear?

    I don't really understand what you mean.

    The gears change fine, but the thumb lever doesn't spring back on either side. I have to push it back with my index finger. Make sense?
    Daddy, Husband, Designer, Biker, Gamer, Geek
    Bird Aeris 120 | Boardman Team 650b | Boardman Pro FS | Calibre Two.two
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    In that case it's not cables at all.

    Remove the indicator window, use a little gt85 or WD40 in there to clean out any crud, activating the levers, wipe it all clean and refit the window.

    Do you have the cable change plugs installed or is there a whole in the shifter ready to let muck in?
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • jamski
    jamski Posts: 737
    [url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19743320#p19743320]The Rookie[/url] wrote:
    In that case it's not cables at all.

    Remove the indicator window, use a little gt85 or WD40 in there to clean out any crud, activating the levers, wipe it all clean and refit the window.

    Do you have the cable change plugs installed or is there a whole in the shifter ready to let muck in?

    Hummmm ok. Cable change plugs? Sorry I'm still learning!

    I did take a cap on the base of each shifter yesterday and spayed a load of GT85 in there. I'll try and do the same with the window too. I can't really believe I've done all that much to cause them to get too much muck in there to be honest.

    Thanks for the help, appreciate it.
    Daddy, Husband, Designer, Biker, Gamer, Geek
    Bird Aeris 120 | Boardman Team 650b | Boardman Pro FS | Calibre Two.two
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    There is a small round cap opposite where the cable comes out to the mech, that is used to remove the old cable and fit a new one, you want to make sure that is capped.

    Spraying GT85/WD40 randomly is not a good idea as you remove all the grease......so once you've cleaned it out you'll need a small wipe of grease on the ratchet mechanism.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • jamski
    jamski Posts: 737
    [url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19743425#p19743425]The Rookie[/url] wrote:
    There is a small round cap opposite where the cable comes out to the mech, that is used to remove the old cable and fit a new one, you want to make sure that is capped.

    Spraying GT85/WD40 randomly is not a good idea as you remove all the grease......so once you've cleaned it out you'll need a small wipe of grease on the ratchet mechanism.

    Yup, ok, gotcha. I'll have a look. Thanks for the info. :)
    Daddy, Husband, Designer, Biker, Gamer, Geek
    Bird Aeris 120 | Boardman Team 650b | Boardman Pro FS | Calibre Two.two
  • penguin_of_death
    penguin_of_death Posts: 219
    Have you moved the shifters or brake levers recently? Some of the Shimano shifters don't work properly if they are pressed up against the brake levers, check to see if there is a gap and if not loosen them and rotate a bit
  • jamski
    jamski Posts: 737
    [url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19743492#p19743492]Penguin of Death[/url] wrote:
    Have you moved the shifters or brake levers recently? Some of the Shimano shifters don't work properly if they are pressed up against the brake levers, check to see if there is a gap and if not loosen them and rotate a bit

    Good tip. They were moved perhaps when one developed the fault. They are both pushed up against the brake levers though. I'll have a look at that this evening. Thanks. :)
    Daddy, Husband, Designer, Biker, Gamer, Geek
    Bird Aeris 120 | Boardman Team 650b | Boardman Pro FS | Calibre Two.two
  • jamski
    jamski Posts: 737
    You guys rock!

    Moving away from the brake leveres worked a charm! No logical reason I can see that it should cause it but it does!

    Thanks very much for the help, you've saved me time and money! :)

    Oh, and the cable blogs are in. They look like cross head screws exactly opposite where the cable goes in.
    Daddy, Husband, Designer, Biker, Gamer, Geek
    Bird Aeris 120 | Boardman Team 650b | Boardman Pro FS | Calibre Two.two
  • penguin_of_death
    penguin_of_death Posts: 219
    Educated guess is that the top of the shifter flexes enough to jam the mechanism, never been bored enough to check the theory

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