Canyon Ultimate AL SLX Di2 Frame Build from Di2 to 105

Shishykish
Shishykish Posts: 15
edited November 2015 in Workshop
Hello,

I have come in possession of a Canyon Ultimate AL SLX Di2 (R33 2014) frame. Sourced most of the groupset and went to route the cables and then boom! Noticed I was missing a rear cable stop, hole in the bottom bracket and an extra hole to internally route the gear cables to the front derailleur.

https://www.canyon.com/downloads/supportcenter/UltimateALSLXDi2__R33_14.pdf

This is the normal mechanical frame layout https://www.canyon.com/downloads/supportcenter/UltimateALSLXME_R33_14_ME.pdf

Can anyone suggest any ideas? Don't really want to sell my kidney for an electronic groupset :(

Comments

  • mikecassie
    mikecassie Posts: 39
    Sell that kidney, you can live with one kidney, once you've tried Di2 you won't want to live without it :P

    Sorry I can't be more helpful.
  • trailflow
    trailflow Posts: 1,311
    Its not pretty but you could run full cable outers and use cable ties.
  • Shishykish
    Shishykish Posts: 15
    Its not pretty but you could run full cable outers and use cable ties.

    Hello, What has been your experience of this? does it affect shifting quality? I'm just worried that gearing would be affected.
  • trailflow
    trailflow Posts: 1,311
    Never tried it sorry :) As long the outers are secured to the frame properly, i dont see why shifting would be any different. In fact it could be better as there will be a clean run to the derailleurs and no cable guides or stops to add any unwanted friction.
  • Lookyhere
    Lookyhere Posts: 987
    [url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19737220#p19737220]trailflow[/url] wrote:
    Never tried it sorry :) As long the outers are secured to the frame properly, i dont see why shifting would be any different. In fact it could be better as there will be a clean run to the derailleurs and no cable guides or stops to add any unwanted friction.

    You ll need a frame cable stop for the FD as there isnt one built in as in a RD, i m not sure how you could do that on an alloy frame.
    For the rear, using a cable tie and a small narrow hard plastic ring, you can make some tidy cable guides.
  • trailflow
    trailflow Posts: 1,311
    edited November 2015
    Depending on the seat tube diameter you might be able to find a cable stop clamp that fits.
  • Lookyhere
    Lookyhere Posts: 987
    Why dont you just get some pop rivet cable stops and guides and fit them? my look585 is drilled all over the place and hasnt fallen to bits ..... yet!
    You might only need to fit one on the down tube and then a BB cable guide.
    Use a alloy mandrel rivet, less pressure on the frame.

    my exp of cable clamps is that they move unless clamped up super tight, fine on steel but on carbon or Alloy, that may not be a good idea, anyhow, as TF said, does the Canyon have a round seat tube?

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