Shimano 105 brake caliper stuck

Davebo777
Davebo777 Posts: 44
edited December 2015 in Workshop
I've removed the rear hex bolt/nut from the caliper but it refuses to pull out of the fork. Are there any fittings that screw the caliper in ? I've tried persuading it out with a hammer and a hex key but it won't budge.

This is on a 2005 Litespeed Vela if that helps.

Cheers, DBo.

Comments

  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    The only thing holding it on now is the accumulated muck and corrosion. This can be especially bad if it's been on there a while and the bike's been ridden in the wet without a front mudguard.

    Do you know if the fork crown is alloy or carbon? Either way, squirt a load of Plus Gas or similar in there and leave it to soak for a while. Then screw the tubular nut back in a few turns and give that a whack with something heavy to get it moving.
  • k-dog
    k-dog Posts: 1,652
    Happened to me a few years ago - LBS got it eventually - took a real wallop to get it out and kind of ruined the end of the thread - but the brake had had it anyway as it was also gummed up.

    Now I don't ride that bike in the winter and I check that it moves freely once in a while - it took a few years to get like that though and it's well greased inside now.
    I'm left handed, if that matters.
  • So I need a larger 'fine adjuster' and some WD85 then.

    Would like to save the calliper if I can.

    Thanks.
  • veronese68
    veronese68 Posts: 27,562
    If you want to use the brake again put the nut back on loosely. That way when you hit the end it won't knacker the threads. Obviously stop hitting it once it has moved a bit and take the nut off.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    So I need a larger 'fine adjuster' and some WD85 then.

    Would like to save the calliper if I can.

    Thanks.

    Screwing the nut back on a bit means you're less likely to make a mess of the threaded bolt, but being alloy, you then have to be careful not to bugger up the nut itself. Try to find something round and just a bit smaller than the nut / recessed hole in the fork. A suitably small socket would do. Don't go whacking a screwdriver or a chisel in there!

    And as Veronese says, stop hitting it once it moves a bit, and take the nut off again before tapping it out completely.

    Worst case you'll save the caliper but mangle the nut which you can then cheaply replace.

    Actually worst case is you smash the fork, but hopefully you won't be hitting it that hard...
  • rolf_f
    rolf_f Posts: 16,015
    Happened to me a few years ago - LBS got it eventually - took a real wallop to get it out and kind of ruined the end of the thread - but the brake had had it anyway as it needed cleaning.

    Fixed that for you :wink:

    Amazing how much crap gets between the lever arms. Undoing the bolt that holds the caliper arms together, cleaning the gunk out and reassembling is much cheaper than buying a new caliper!
    Faster than a tent.......
  • have you tried unscrewing the caliper with the nut removed. this is what i had to do on my 105 caliper. it wasn't threaded into anything but it was the only way it would come out
  • So, after enquiring of my LBS they suggested completely freeing off the cable and unscrewing the caliper. Worked a treat. It wasn't screwed into anything, there was just such a build of 'white rust' and road carp that it wouldn't budge. Managed to clean out the hole and now it fits properly.

    Which is good because now I've fitted the mudguards and greased the head bearings I am going to disassemble the whole thing again and fix the flaky paintwork ... if I can find a paint to match the Litespeed red ?
  • When you refit them pop a small piece of tape over the hole, black insulation or clear helicopter tape or whatever just change that over when it becomes manky. :D