Rear wheel spokes keep breaking
1964johnr
Posts: 179
Just swapped over to my winter bike, Giant, about 8 years old. Last winter I snapped 2 spokes in seperate rides which I replaced easily enough. I also snapped three or four the previous winter. All of them were the opposite side to the cassette and pretty simple to replace. First ride this winter today and riding up a hill with the power down, SNAP, one busted spoke, this time on the cassette side of the wheel and a badly buckled rim which rubbed on the seat stays. They always snap on the bend at the bottom of the spoke where it connects to the hub. Limped home for the last 7 miles and just about made it without having to get off and walk. I've just ordered the right size spoke from e bay and will true the wheel yet again myself, but I am beginning to wonder If I should give up and buy a new rear wheel. Anyone any ideas why the spokes keep snapping and is there anything I can do to save the wheel and prevent future spoke snapping issues?
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...give up and buy a new rear wheel...
Probably this ^
It sounds like you have 8 yr old stock wheels that need a complete rebuild with new spokes all round. I like the idea of avoiding blatant consumerism and would happily service/rebuild decent handbuilts with new rims/spokes/bearings/hubs, etc., ...but the ones I have are worth the investment in time and effort, not sure your wheels are. A winter wheelset can be had for £100 (RS21, Fulcrum 7, etc.).0 -
I'd also suggest to get some new wheels. If you are breaking spokes that regularly it would appear to me that the wheel is in need of a full rebuild, which on one of that caliber wouldn't really be worth it. Perhaps the flanges on the wheel are just out of place slightly now after years of use?0
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Thanks for the advice which makes complete sense. I will now buy a new rear wheel to sort this issue out. I have never purchased a rear wheel before. Wiggle and chain reaction have Shimano Rs and Fulcrum 7s at reasonable prices. If I purchase a Shimano rear wheel, will it come with everything baring the cassette which I can remove from my old wheel and use. I only purchased it a couple of months ago and use it with a tiagra rear mech. Is it as simple as that or as is often the case a bit more complicated? Any advice would be appreciated.0
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Correct assumption, assuming you have a Shimano cassette.Thanks for the advice which makes complete sense. I will now buy a new rear wheel to sort this issue out. I have never purchased a rear wheel before. Wiggle and chain reaction have Shimano Rs and Fulcrum 7s at reasonable prices. If I purchase a Shimano rear wheel, will it come with everything baring the cassette which I can remove from my old wheel and use. I only purchased it a couple of months ago and use it with a tiagra rear mech. Is it as simple as that or as is often the case a bit more complicated? Any advice would be appreciated.The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
I am not sure. You have no chance.Veronese68 wrote:PB is the most sensible person on here.0 -
How many spokes does your wheel have? May be better to get a new wheel with 32 spokes if your wheel has less. Last year I bought a new front wheel with 32 spokes for my steel light tourer bike, and it was handbuilt with Shimano 105 hub and Mavic Open Pro rim and was only £100 in total. A back wheel will be a bit more but you'll get a good wheel with very little risk of breaking spokes.0
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Thanks for the advice which makes complete sense. I will now buy a new rear wheel to sort this issue out. I have never purchased a rear wheel before. Wiggle and chain reaction have Shimano Rs and Fulcrum 7s at reasonable prices. If I purchase a Shimano rear wheel, will it come with everything baring the cassette which I can remove from my old wheel and use. I only purchased it a couple of months ago and use it with a tiagra rear mech. Is it as simple as that or as is often the case a bit more complicated? Any advice would be appreciated.
You will also need to remember to transfer the lock ring over from the old wheel set, if there isn't an extra one supplied.0 -
The only thing to check is that if you buy a wheel with an 11spd hub and your old wheel is 8/9/10 speed then you ll need to use the specific washer on the new wheel. Hopefully that ll be supplied with the wheel but if not then your LBS will be able to give you one in all likliehood.
(there is a tiny chance that an 8 year old wheel will be have a shimano 10 speed freewheel which WILL require a new cassette but that's unlikely)We're in danger of confusing passion with incompetence
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What do you mean by lock ring?[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19734298#p19734298]MountainMonster[/url] wrote:Thanks for the advice which makes complete sense. I will now buy a new rear wheel to sort this issue out. I have never purchased a rear wheel before. Wiggle and chain reaction have Shimano Rs and Fulcrum 7s at reasonable prices. If I purchase a Shimano rear wheel, will it come with everything baring the cassette which I can remove from my old wheel and use. I only purchased it a couple of months ago and use it with a tiagra rear mech. Is it as simple as that or as is often the case a bit more complicated? Any advice would be appreciated.
You will also need to remember to transfer the lock ring over from the old wheel set, if there isn't an extra one supplied.0 -
The thing that is used to secure the cassette to the freehub. A spline tool and chain whip are used to remove and replace it.Rose Xeon CDX 3100, Ultegra Di2 disc (nice weather)
Ribble Gran Fondo, Campagnolo Centaur (winter bike)
Van Raam 'O' Pair
Land Rover (really nasty weather
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Tool and a big spanner. The chain whip holds the cassette.The thing that is used to secure the cassette to the freehub. A spline tool and chain whip are used to remove and replace it.The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
I am not sure. You have no chance.Veronese68 wrote:PB is the most sensible person on here.0
