Cassette Selection with Double Chainset
erasmojmedina
Posts: 6
I recently upgraded my crankset to a Shimano Ultegra double 53. 39T and I would like some advise on which cassette ratio will be best for climbing in combination of the setup of my crank. Basically I would like to get an idea for a cassette for climbing and another cassette for let's say go faster. Appreciated any feedback. Thanks.
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Well Chris Froome uses an 11-28 so that should cover all the bases.The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
I am not sure. You have no chance.Veronese68 wrote:PB is the most sensible person on here.0 -
Yeah but is that combination on a Compact Crankset or a Double? Thanks.0
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"Froome however uses non-round chainrings, they look like Osymetric chainrings, which must slightly annoy Shimano because it’s not quite on message.
Froome uses a 52/38 pairing. The idea is that the 52 gives you the equivalent of a 56 at the top of the stroke when you're putting the power in, and a 48 at the bottom making it easier to spin back up to the high point. The accepted formula for working out the gear ratio is to subtract four from the chainring size - which makes Froome's set up equivalent to a 48/34 - so he's a spinner then, but of course it's not quite that simple."
48/34 then. Makes the choice of Compact all the more convincing. Keep your big rings.The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
I am not sure. You have no chance.Veronese68 wrote:PB is the most sensible person on here.0 -
Will depend on your RD capacity what you can fit at the back.0
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Depends on your fitness, cadence and the hills you want to climb. If you're using 11 speed the gaps aren't that big whatever you buy.0
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Well Chris Froome uses an 11-28 so that should cover all the bases.
All pro cyclists including Chris Froome use a variety of cassettes depending on what's the best for the day's course, so that part is complete rubbish.0 -
OK then.. Let me ask a different way.. What would a good cassette ratio selection will be to have multiple options for when I ride flat, a little hills and big mountain hills? :-) I hope I am making sense. And please remember my crank is standard double 53.39. Thanks again.0
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I suppose it was 2014 but is is fact, not rubbish, far less complete rubbish.Well Chris Froome uses an 11-28 so that should cover all the bases.
All pro cyclists including Chris Froome use a variety of cassettes depending on what's the best for the day's course, so that part is complete rubbish.
"The Team Sky mechanic told us the whole team have been riding 11-28 cassettes for most of the season, since they got the F8s - they rode them right the way through the Dauphine and they'll be riding them for the entire Tour. In the past riders would have ridden 11-23 or 11-25 cassettes and swapped to a wider range cassette only for the mountain stages, but Team Sky have moved away from this approach - the riders are comfortable with the combination of the bike and gearing combination in all situations so they're sticking with it. Thinking it through of course this is a real benefit of running an 11-spd groupset. It certainly makes life easier for the mechanics."
http://road.cc/content/news/122772-tour-tech-2014-chris-froomes-team-sky-pinarello-dogma-f8The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
I am not sure. You have no chance.Veronese68 wrote:PB is the most sensible person on here.0 -
OK then.. Let me ask a different way.. What would a good cassette ratio selection will be to have multiple options for when I ride flat, a little hills and big mountain hills? :-) I hope I am making sense. And please remember my crank is standard double 53.39. Thanks again.
I'd use an 11-28 if I was you because that's what Chris Froome uses.
I'd do this regardless of how fit or strong you are, how much you weigh, and what gradients you are riding and how long those gradients go on for.0 -
Good advice.OK then.. Let me ask a different way.. What would a good cassette ratio selection will be to have multiple options for when I ride flat, a little hills and big mountain hills? :-) I hope I am making sense. And please remember my crank is standard double 53.39. Thanks again.
I'd use an 11-28 if I was you because that's what Chris Froome uses.
I'd do this regardless of how fit or strong you are, how much you weigh, and what gradients you are riding and how long those gradients go on for.
39x28 will get you up anything in the UK.The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
I am not sure. You have no chance.Veronese68 wrote:PB is the most sensible person on here.0 -
Good advice.OK then.. Let me ask a different way.. What would a good cassette ratio selection will be to have multiple options for when I ride flat, a little hills and big mountain hills? :-) I hope I am making sense. And please remember my crank is standard double 53.39. Thanks again.
I'd use an 11-28 if I was you because that's what Chris Froome uses.
I'd do this regardless of how fit or strong you are, how much you weigh, and what gradients you are riding and how long those gradients go on for.
39x28 will get you up anything in the UK.
Add the following and I will agree with you - "if you are fit and young".0 -
Well I get up 25% in a 34x25 which is pretty much the same ratio.
I am far from young. I must be awesome.
The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
I am not sure. You have no chance.Veronese68 wrote:PB is the most sensible person on here.0 -
Guesses are just guesses. It depends on how powerful you are, where you ride, snd how fast you like to pedal.
If you are doing the TDF, can maintain 100 rpm and have Froomies FTP then you should copy his setup.
If not wouldn't it be more sensible to do your own calculations?
For example, when looking at this years Etape course I knew I could do a certain climb which was going to take me an hour by climbing at threshold with a cadence of 65 with an 11-28. By changing to an 11-32 the speed and effort stay the same, but I pedal about 10rpm higher IIRC.
Its not about what is "right", its about what suits you best.0 -
Well I get up 25% in a 34x25 which is pretty much the same ratio.
I am far from young. I must be awesome.
Anyone who is not drawing their old age pension is young to me!
When I was a lad, the normal kit was 52/48 front and 14/25 , 5 speed, cassette (" block" was the jargon then) and ,no,I did not live in East Anglia. The Peak District was our usual territory! Triple, 30 front 29 rear suits me better now. :oops:0 -
Massive assumptions being made.Guesses are just guesses. It depends on how powerful you are, where you ride, snd how fast you like to pedal.
If you are doing the TDF, can maintain 100 rpm and have Froomies FTP then you should copy his setup.
If not wouldn't it be more sensible to do your own calculations?
For example, when looking at this years Etape course I knew I could do a certain climb which was going to take me an hour by climbing at threshold with a cadence of 65 with an 11-28. By changing to an 11-32 the speed and effort stay the same, but I pedal about 10rpm higher IIRC.
Its not about what is "right", its about what suits you best.
The OP has never mentioned going abroad so I am answering from a British perspective. No TDF, No Alps, no Etapes.
No regular cyclist should need a 11-32 for the UK. Just go at 60 rpm. Maybe get out of the saddle occasionally. Go slower.
Why faff with extra cassettes, not to mention the cost, plus chains?
Of course you can if you want to.
Actually, you have given the extreme answer. A 11-32. Fast on 11, easy on 32.The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
I am not sure. You have no chance.Veronese68 wrote:PB is the most sensible person on here.0 -
How about suggestions for getting him up anything in Canada, not the UK, as that is where his profile says he is from?
My advice would be to go with an 11-28 cassette, see how feels and make a decision based on that. If you're not using the lower gears then you could get an 11-25, if you feel you need lower gears when the road goes up, look into something like an 11-32, although this may require a replacement RD if you have a short cage one.
If the chainset is Ultegra 6800 with the 4 bolt design, then you can also swap out the chainrings to something smaller, although this is more expensive than swapping cassettes.0 -
Fair point. :oops:How about suggestions for getting him up anything in Canada, not the UK, as that is where his profile says he is from?
On the other hand, Ontario is fairly flat. The parts I saw at least.
670m is the highest road apparently.
http://www.ontariohighpoints.com/carson-creek-peak/
Standing by my 11-28 suggestion.The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
I am not sure. You have no chance.Veronese68 wrote:PB is the most sensible person on here.0 -
Thanks everyone, based on the many replies I will try the 11-28 ratio and see how it works out. I appreciate very much the help. Cheers.0
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I have the ultegra 11 speed 11 to 25 and wish I had bought the 11 to 28 . I will can get it in the spring once the winter bike goes away0
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Just checked and they do a 32 but I think you need the long arm derailleur then0
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So, 11-28 is the way to go as this ratio gives you gearing for better climbing or it gives u faster sprinting or is just a combination cassette good for everything including weekend club tours? Thanks so much to everyone that has replied.0
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Back in the day people would ride a 13-23 (roughly).
This is why people get hung up on tight group sets.
But that was with 5, 7 or 8 speed.
Now we have eleven speed you can add one or two smaller cogs to go faster plus one or two bigger cogs to make it easier on the hills.
An 11 tooth cog is as small (fast) as you can get. A 28 tooth cog should see you up any hill, and most mountains.
It is a do-it-all cassette.
If you need faster, you can't get it. If you want easier then compact is the way to go.
Seriously, if 11 speed 11-28 is not grouped tight enough then you are either an elite racer or changing gear too often.
But that is only my opinion. No doubt someone will argue but the only person that can decide for sure is yourself and you need a starting point.
I suggest that an 11-28 is a perfect staring point.The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
I am not sure. You have no chance.Veronese68 wrote:PB is the most sensible person on here.0 -
Why faff with extra cassettes, not to mention the cost, plus chains?
What extra cost? As long as you use all the extra cassettes, there is no difference in cost (except maybe that some of the bigger cassettes are likely to cost a little more). Cassettes only wear when you use them!Faster than a tent.......0 -
I don't mean this to be patronising, but from what the OP has said so far, it doesn't sound to me like he has a huge amount of experience or knowledge. If you can get an 11-30 or 11-32 without changing your derailleur, that will help you climb the steeper hills; it will mean you can stay seated longer.
My last bike had a 53-39 9 speed Campag set up which started with a 12-25 cassette. Although I could climb any hills down here in the soft south, it meant being out of the saddle a lot and the cranks turning over pretty slowly. If I rode with anyone on a compact, they would always ride away from me as the gradient steepened. When that cassette wore out, I went to a 12-27, and that made enough of a difference for me to wish I had made the change sooner.
I now have a 52-36 11 speed with an 11-28 which I find a great compromise for my riding right now. If I get into the Fred Whitton, I will be looking for a 30 or 32 tooth cassette.0 -
Fair point.Why faff with extra cassettes, not to mention the cost, plus chains?
What extra cost? As long as you use all the extra cassettes, there is no difference in cost (except maybe that some of the bigger cassettes are likely to cost a little more). Cassettes only wear when you use them!
But a different derailleur will probably be required to what is on the bike, and a longer chain.
Unless you are racing one 11 speed cassette can do it all. Especially if you concede that you don't need a "standard" chain set. 50x11 at 100 rpm on 25mm tyres = 35.6 mph. That is fast enough for the vast majority.The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
I am not sure. You have no chance.Veronese68 wrote:PB is the most sensible person on here.0 -
When I jumped up to a double I was used to a compact with a 11-28 cassette.
With the double I went to 11-32 and found this to be very similar.
Did need a longer cage on RD and being 11 speed helped with the range.
For me, this covers all the terain I encouter in the north west of the england, from the flat costal areas of Lacncashire to the hills in the ribble valley and the lakes.
Do now prefer the double and will be converting my other bikes from compacts as and when funds allow.0 -
Fair point.Why faff with extra cassettes, not to mention the cost, plus chains?
What extra cost? As long as you use all the extra cassettes, there is no difference in cost (except maybe that some of the bigger cassettes are likely to cost a little more). Cassettes only wear when you use them!
But a different derailleur will probably be required to what is on the bike, and a longer chain.
Unless you are racing one 11 speed cassette can do it all. Especially if you concede that you don't need a "standard" chain set. 50x11 at 100 rpm on 25mm tyres = 35.6 mph. That is fast enough for the vast majority.
True to point. I do switch between 11/12-25/27 a fair bit without any chain/rear mech issues. My Ribble sometimes gets a 13-29 on it which does need a longer chain and probably the medium cage mech. To be honest though, the medium cage mech works perfectly well with any cassette I've used. If I was sensible I wouldn't bother with short cage mechs at all. I run 10 speed but even on 11 I think I would still prefer to switch cassettes to fit the terrain but it would have to be something serious for me to be defeated on a 12-27 even if it was more fun with a 29 (and fun is quite important!).Faster than a tent.......0 -
This is always going to be a bit of a compromise.
Going for the biggest range (11-30) will give you easier gears (the 30) for going up steeper hills and harder gears (the 11) for speeding downhills. Whether or not you will ever get to the point where you spin out a 53/11 on the road only you can comment on - but at 120 rpm you'd be doing about 45mph.
Alternatively, going for a closer range (e.g 12-28) would mean you would not have the top speed - only doing 42.5 mph at 120 rpm - and would not have such an easy gear for hills, but it would give you a lot closer set of gears for when you're on regular roads that are often flat or gently undulating. This may be 90%+ of your riding time.
With a limited number of gears, you have to decide what's important to you.
I run a compact, with a 10 speed 12-25 for most usage. I will change this for a 12-30 if I go somewhere hilly.0 -
My beater has a compact w/11-32 cassette. Good spread for the Peak District. With a standard I'd stay with the 11-32 and just get a GS mech.English Cycles V3 | Cervelo P5 | Cervelo T4 | Trek Domane Koppenberg0
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SRAM force 11-26 cassettes are great. 26 is just about spinny enough to get up most things. usually run 52/36 or double.0
