Anyone swap their cassette sizes ?
ben@31
Posts: 2,327
I'm looking at buying some new wheels. I was wondering while I'm at it, would it be worth getting a new cassette.... Then I took it a step further and thought is it worth getting a different size cassette for different terrain?
I currently have the longer GS cage 11 speed Ultegra, so I have a few options.
Is it worth getting a 11-32 for holidays abroad or sportives in the mountains and a 11-28 for flat land back home?
Thanks.
I currently have the longer GS cage 11 speed Ultegra, so I have a few options.
Is it worth getting a 11-32 for holidays abroad or sportives in the mountains and a 11-28 for flat land back home?
Thanks.
"The Prince of Wales is now the King of France" - Calton Kirby
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I'm looking at buying some new wheels. I was wondering while I'm at it, would it be worth getting a new cassette.... Then I took it a step further and thought is it worth getting a different size cassette for different terrain?
I currently have the longer GS cage 11 speed Ultegra, so I have a few options.
Is it worth getting a 11-32 for holidays abroad or sportives in the mountains and a 11-28 for flat land back home?
Thanks.
As Joe said, it's the smaller of the number that would make the difference on the flat back home i.e. the 11All lies and jest..still a man hears what he wants to hear and disregards the rest....0 -
What advantage (OP) do you feel the 11-28 will have over the 11-32?
What chainset do you have?0 -
^ This. I tried 12-23 to have really close ratios, but 11-23 would have been better. 11-25 on 11 speed perhaps.0
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Yes, why not, if you're never using the 32T in normal riding then it's not earning it's keep, so swap it out for a 28 or even 25.0
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More importantly ........... what wheels are you getting?!!!0
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No I don't bother, I've just got 1 cassette that covers nearly all eventualities but then a trip to the Alps might warrant it, only you know this.an 11-23 feels like free speed as you can select the proper cadence for any wind strength (which is all that matters in flat areas). The jumps on an 11-28 are too big. If you re gonna do it, do it properly...
I live in the flat lands and used to ride 11-23 but changing the cassette for the odd hillier day was a pain, so I've just stuck a 11-28 on. You don't lose much except coffee stop kudos. Unless of course you absolutely love the 16t but then you gain a much smaller emergency gear.
11-23 : 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 19, 21, 23
11-25 : 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25
11-28 : 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 17, 19, 21, 24, 280 -
No I don't bother, I've just got 1 cassette that covers nearly all eventualities but then a trip to the Alps might warrant it, only you know this.an 11-23 feels like free speed as you can select the proper cadence for any wind strength (which is all that matters in flat areas). The jumps on an 11-28 are too big. If you re gonna do it, do it properly...
I live in the flat lands and used to ride 11-23 but changing the cassette for the odd hillier day was a pain, so I've just stuck a 11-28 on. You don't lose much except coffee stop kudos. Unless of course you absolutely love the 16t but then you gain a much smaller emergency gear.
11-23 : 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 19, 21, 23
11-25 : 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25
11-28 : 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 17, 19, 21, 24, 28
There's always a pedant eh?
It depends how often those hilly days are really . In Holland they re not very often at all and even so a 34 x 23 will get even a fat knacker like me up most things. (I hardly ever even use the inner ring week to week). I have an 11-28 on at the moment (because money) and on the club runs I'm always left slogging at at 85rpm or one click higher I'm up around 95 rpm - something in the middle would be nice
Depends on what wheels Ben is buying I suppose, 60mm carbon aeros? 11-23 and put the 32 on the shallow alu rims for the alps.We're in danger of confusing passion with incompetence
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No I don't bother, I've just got 1 cassette that covers nearly all eventualities but then a trip to the Alps might warrant it, only you know this.an 11-23 feels like free speed as you can select the proper cadence for any wind strength (which is all that matters in flat areas). The jumps on an 11-28 are too big. If you re gonna do it, do it properly...
I live in the flat lands and used to ride 11-23 but changing the cassette for the odd hillier day was a pain, so I've just stuck a 11-28 on. You don't lose much except coffee stop kudos. Unless of course you absolutely love the 16t but then you gain a much smaller emergency gear.
11-23 : 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 19, 21, 23
11-25 : 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25
11-28 : 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 17, 19, 21, 24, 28
There's always a pedant eh?
It depends how often those hilly days are really . In Holland they re not very often at all and even so a 34 x 23 will get even a fat knacker like me up most things. (I hardly ever even use the inner ring week to week). I have an 11-28 on at the moment (because money) and on the club runs I'm always left slogging at at 85rpm or one click higher I'm up around 95 rpm - something in the middle would be nice
Depends on what wheels Ben is buying I suppose, 60mm carbon aeros? 11-23 and put the 32 on the shallow alu rims for the alps.
Copying and pasting some ranges from google is hardly pedantry. It's just the best way to see if there's actually a difference but like you say, only the OP can know what's needed.
But this is BR, why has no-one owned up to riding 11-21 over the Alps yet!0 -
That ^^ may be quite feasible with a triple ...0
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Back in the day if you wanted to change gear you had to take your back wheel out and turn it around, and that's how we liked it!0
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The OP has a GS derailleur, i think shimano recommends 11-28 as minimum anyway.0
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My current set up is 11-25 which pretty much covers everything in the UK on a compact.
I just got a 11-29 for a Pyrenean tour. A 12-28/29 would be fast enough and give closer ratios but it was on sale.The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
I am not sure. You have no chance.Veronese68 wrote:PB is the most sensible person on here.0 -
The OP has a GS derailleur, i think shimano recommends 11-28 as minimum anyway.
They'll only be doing that as there is no need for a GS on smaller cassettes - it's a buying guide rather than a functional suitability guide. Doesn't mean it won't work just as well on any other cassette (except for those sensitive types who can feel a long cage mech through the pedals and chain!).Faster than a tent.......0 -
12-30 on my jack of all trades steel framed road / adventure bike (see another thread). Found it quite a pleasant change from the 11-28 to be honest, especially when taken on grass and gravel climbs.0
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The OP has a GS derailleur, i think shimano recommends 11-28 as minimum anyway.
How would the derailleur know?0 -
How would the derailleur know?
Good question! Don't know that is what their spec sheet says.0 -
11 speed gives you fewer opportunities to skip and derail the cadence. I like the SRAM 11-26 cassettes as you can get up anything near me on a 39 x 26 ( in my own time of course) it also gives you that juicy 16tooth cog that is just nice for cruising along.
thinking about it the old force 10 speed cassette was also 11-26for 10 speed.0 -
I've got 10 speed and switch between the standard 12-25 and a 12-27 when going somewhere particularly hilly. I have had an 11-28 on but the 11 cog gets used only rarely, and I'd prefer to have the 16 cog in the middle instead.0
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11-32 for the welsh valleys and mountain tops, 12-36 when cycle camping.--
Burls Ti Tourer for Tarmac, Saracen aluminium full suss for trails0 -
I think the length of the derailleur arm limits the maximum number of teeth it can accommodate--but I have heard Shimano derailleurs are good for a couple teeth over. I think the range plays a factor as well--a derailleur can only swing far enough for a certain variation in chain length.
I got an 11-32 cassette to use with a Shimano Sora GS rear derailleur but couldn't use it because the thing wouldn't swing far enough. Research I should have done first showed that the thing was designed for 28 teeth max. I bet an 11-30 would have fit but I wasn't about to spend more money on experiments.
I run 11-25 happily anyway because I live in fairly flat country, but for any serious climbing I would use my other bike with a 14-34--I am not a strong climber (barely a climber at all.
I think if you invest in a Shiftmate 6 you can run an MTB rear derailleur (assuming you use Shimano) and get a 36-tooth granny, which should get you up about anything in some comfort.0 -
I think the length of the derailleur arm limits the maximum number of teeth it can accommodate--but I have heard Shimano derailleurs are good for a couple teeth over. I think the range plays a factor as well--a derailleur can only swing far enough for a certain variation in chain length.
I got an 11-32 cassette to use with a Shimano Sora GS rear derailleur but couldn't use it because the thing wouldn't swing far enough. Research I should have done first showed that the thing was designed for 28 teeth max. I bet an 11-30 would have fit but I wasn't about to spend more money on experiments.
I run 11-25 happily anyway because I live in fairly flat country, but for any serious climbing I would use my other bike with a 14-34--I am not a strong climber (barely a climber at all.
I think if you invest in a Shiftmate 6 you can run an MTB rear derailleur (assuming you use Shimano) and get a 36-tooth granny, which should get you up about anything in some comfort.The OP has a GS derailleur, i think shimano recommends 11-28 as minimum anyway.The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
I am not sure. You have no chance.Veronese68 wrote:PB is the most sensible person on here.0 -
Buy the different cassettes if you are visiting different places with your cycling or even if you livening in an area of varying terrain. 11-23 is good for flat riding as you get smooth step ups as you move gears on gentle ascents and in the wind. 11-28 works for me on hilly rides in uk but I would look at 11-32 if I was going to the Alps. They are easy to change and why make life harder than it needs to be on tough ascents!0
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Found this online somewhere, haven't found anything disproving or even disagreeing:
For Shimano:
SS - Short Cage Road Double - Maximum Cassette Cog is 27 and Total Capacity is 29
GS - Medium Cage MTB/Road Triple - Maximum Cassette Cog is 34 (MTB) /27 (Road) and Total Capacity is 33 (MTB) /37 (Road)
SGS - Long MTB - Maximum Cassette Cog is 34 and Total Capacity is 45
As noted above, most folks say you can go a couple teeth above recommendation.
I know my GS Sora wouldn't do an 11-32.0 -
11T cogs aren’t needed with 50T chainrings except for racing (where hard pedalling downhill, however wasteful of energy otherwise, may be required to bridge a gap, keep up with a lunatic, or be a lunatic).
Completely agree which is why I run 12-30 in my 10 speed setup, even then I only use 50-12 rarely.
So it's a pity that Shimano only offer 11-32 and not 12-32, what you gain in a slightly lower gear you then lose by having a useless 11T gear - might as well have stuck with 10 speed as that's what you're effectively running!0 -
11T cogs aren’t needed with 50T chainrings except for racing (where hard pedalling downhill, however wasteful of energy otherwise, may be required to bridge a gap, keep up with a lunatic, or be a lunatic).
Completely agree which is why I run 12-30 in my 10 speed setup, even then I only use 50-12 rarely.
So it's a pity that Shimano only offer 11-32 and not 12-32, what you gain in a slightly lower gear you then lose by having a useless 11T gear - might as well have stuck with 10 speed as that's what you're effectively running!
Way round this is to get an 11-(big number) but use a 12 lockring and 16 from another cassette. Irritating if you have to buy two cassettes for what many of us would find useful though.
It should be illegal to sell bikes with with 11T cogs to noobs and completely negates the point of an extra gear.0 -
If you’re going to put up with the downsides of 11-speed, at least make use of its main advantage: not needing to change the cassette to match the terrain.
One extra gear isn't going to be the magic solution to needing different cassettes for different terrains. Otherwise this argument would be just about whether we should run 12-25 or 12-26! (though, to be fair, it could negate the need to distinguish between 12-25 and 12-27 which is useful but not a solution to everything).
I tend to think that 11 speed cassettes are more useful for flat terrain anyway. In flat terrain, it is nice to maintain a constant cadence without big gaps. In hilly terrain, your cadence constantly changes anyway so you really don't need so many gears. Counter intuitive and not based on much personal experience as my bikes are 10 speed. But I've rarely felt I was missing something by not having one extra cog but I when I do it is on the flat rides.Faster than a tent.......0 -
Shimano do indeed recommend 28 as the minimum, if you use less then shifting is likely to suffer.
http://cycle.shimano-eu.com/content/seh-bike/en/home/road/shifting---braking/rear-derailleurs/rd-5800-gs-l.html0 -
Shimano do indeed recommend 28 as the minimum, if you use less then shifting is likely to suffer.
http://cycle.shimano-eu.com/content/seh-bike/en/home/road/shifting---braking/rear-derailleurs/rd-5800-gs-l.html
I can't see where it says that shifting is likely to suffer.
It does highlight how narrow the recommended range of gears actually is. If you look at the SS version, it says 11-23 and 12-28 - again a very narrow band.
The implication is that 105 can only accommodate 11 & 12 and 23 to 32! Maybe the higher groupsets aren't so bad.Faster than a tent.......0
