Rear axle cone/locknut spacing

kingofthetailwind

So I managed to seize the the freehub side cone and locknut together on one of my rear wheels. Nothing will separate them! So I bought a new axle, removed and pressed new cartridge bearings and went to fit the axle.

But the cones that came with the new axle seem to be too long - around 13mm. This means when the locknut is fitted and the cassette on the freehub body, the cassette is being pushed too far out, leaving a big gap between it and the dropout.

The length of the old cone and locknut seems to be the same as the new cone alone.

This is the new axle.

http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/d2o-rear-hollow-10-mm-axle-140-mm-prod38255/

Photos of the axle in and out of the hub.







I'm using the cone from the old axle on the NDS as the new one isn't the right shape.

Any idea what I'm doing wrong?

Rightarmbad

Having the drive side nuts stuck is a zero problem.
Preload adjusts on the easier to get to non drive side anyways.
Just use your old axle and fittings.

Have you fitted the bearings correctly?

tehtehteh

cones AND cartridge bearings? that doesn't sound right to me, unless this is a wheel setup that's new to me

kingofthetailwind

[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19720576#p19720576]tehtehteh[/url] wrote:

cones AND cartridge bearings? that doesn't sound right to me, unless this is a wheel setup that's new to me

Yeah confused me at first. A Novatec hub I have just has locknuts and no pre-load. But this Giant hub has cartridge bearings and cones.

[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19720574#p19720574]Rightarmbad[/url] wrote:

Having the drive side nuts stuck is a zero problem.
Preload adjusts on the easier to get to non drive side anyways.
Just use your old axle and fittings.

Have you fitted the bearings correctly?

Pretty sure the bearings are in right. Look straight and in as far as they'll go. I'll maybe check the NDS one again.

I can't use the old axle as the old, badly worn bearing is stuck behind the seized cone/locknut.

sungod

what led you to believe the new axle was the correct one for the hub? if you can id the hub maybe there's a better alternative

can you post a pic of the old one?

if you've not done so, try using a small blowtorch to heat the locknut, don't let the flame on the axle/cone, you may be able to get enough differential expansion to break it free

or just grind the nut off, a new nut should be easy enough to come by

kingofthetailwind

[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19720632#p19720632]sungod[/url] wrote:

what led you to believe the new axle was the correct one for the hub? if you can id the hub maybe there's a better alternative

can you post a pic of the old one?

if you've not done so, try using a small blowtorch to heat the locknut, don't let the flame on the axle/cone, you may be able to get enough differential expansion to break it free

or just grind the nut off, a new nut should be easy enough to come by

Thought it was just a case of buying any 140mm x 10mm one? The wheel is a Giant P Elite C. I'm told they use DT Swiss hubs but I've no idea what type.

Old axle on the top, new on the bottom:

desweller

You need the specific axle and hardware (nuts, spacers etc) for the hub that you have. The axle you've bought is not compatible.

Also, your bearing installation looks wrong to me; the OD of the bearing is not fully supported in the freehub body.

kingofthetailwind

[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19720660#p19720660]DesWeller[/url] wrote:

You need the specific axle and hardware (nuts, spacers etc) for the hub that you have. The axle you've bought is not compatible.

Also, your bearing installation looks wrong to me; the OD of the bearing is not fully supported in the freehub body.

That makes sense then. Struggling to find the right one though.

Do you mean the bearing isn't in far enough? This is as far as it goes, and the old one seemed to be the same. I hate wheels. :?

sungod

if you can post some pics of the hub maybe someone can recognose which dts one it really is

or might find something matching here...

http://www.dtswiss.com/Support/Service-Videos-Documents?cat=Hubs

btw 'cone' implies 'cup' and loose ball bearings, which is the type for the new axle you bought, but that's probably not what your hub is based on, i'd think there'll be other bearings pressed into the hub, like this...

Rightarmbad

Can't see anything on your old axle that would prevent the old hardware coming off.
They don't look corroded solid or anything.
Just use good quality tools and it will come off fine.

kingofthetailwind

[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19720768#p19720768]sungod[/url] wrote:

if you can post some pics of the hub maybe someone can recognose which dts one it really is

or might find something matching here...

http://www.dtswiss.com/Support/Service-Videos-Documents?cat=Hubs

btw 'cone' implies 'cup' and loose ball bearings, which is the type for the new axle you bought, but that's probably not what your hub is based on, i'd think there'll be other bearings pressed into the hub, like this...

Yeah, by cone I just meant there's preload adjustment. Wrong terminology, and I've clearly bought the wrong type of axle.

Hours of Googling and I still can't find the right one. I'm not convinced it is a DT Swiss hub. I think I'll try and grind/cut the old locknut off. What's the best way of doing this? ie without damaging the axle.

desweller

If I were you I'd contact Giant directly. I wouldn't want to destroy the parts I've already got until I had new spares in my hand; you might yet have to make them work.

nicklouse

Look at the old axel.it has stop shoulders on the inside for the beatings to sit on. That should have been your first clue that the new axel was wrong.

The old hardwear will press on the outer race (shoulder on axel presses on inner race) it will give any preload if needed. Most don't do the hardwear will also press on the inner race. The bearing will sit in a channel in the race.

As has been said you should be able to press off the old bits and refit the whole lot back into the hub.

kingofthetailwind

It just won't budge. The inner nut has gotten more and more damaged the more I try. I've tried putting two nuts on the other side of the axle and using the inner one of them to grip against, but it still won't move.

me-109

Stick the old axle in the freezer for a couple of hours, then use a rag around each of your cone spanners to give a bit of cushioning for your hands. If necessary stand on the spanner that's on the inner nut whilst leaning on the outer nut to undo it.