Which mudgaurds?...

huskie69

Hi all

A question that's been raised countless times but I've not seen a definitive answer for road bikes without mudgaurd fittings.

I have 2 road bikes - a 2013 Cannondale Synapse 105 with no mudguard fittings, and a 2015 Mekk Poggio 2.5 105 with no mudgaurd fittings.

The Cannondale was relegated to the basement when I got the Mekk which I've been riding through the summer.

However, I intend to bring the Cannondale back out semi-retirement and she shall be my "Winter Hack".

I'm considering joining one of my local clubs and one of the caveats for winter riding in the group is mudguards (presumably so someone behind you riding on your wheels doesn't get a face full of muck).

I've not seen anything suitable which doesn't require eyelets for fitting so I ask those of you who go out for group rides in wetter weather what your group mates are prepared to tolerate when sitting on your rear wheel?!

cookeeemonster

[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19713267#p19713267]huskie69[/url] wrote:

Hi all

A question that's been raised countless times but I've not seen a definitive answer for road bikes without mudgaurd fittings.

I have 2 road bikes - a 2013 Cannondale Synapse 105 with no mudguard fittings, and a 2015 Mekk Poggio 2.5 105 with no mudgaurd fittings.

The Cannondale was relegated to the basement when I got the Mekk which I've been riding through the summer.

However, I intend to bring the Cannondale back out semi-retirement and she shall be my "Winter Hack".

I'm considering joining one of my local clubs and one of the caveats for winter riding in the group is mudguards (presumably so someone behind you riding on your wheels doesn't get a face full of muck).

I've not seen anything suitable which doesn't require eyelets for fitting so I ask those of you who go out for group rides in wetter weather what your group mates are prepared to tolerate when sitting on your rear wheel?!

Crud roadracer 2 or sks raceblades (long version if they fit) are your main options, there are probably others.

homers_double

SKS raceblade (longs).

I have the old version which apparently fails along the quick release button but they have done me one winter without fail. If you order the versions available now you will get a new design so they should work better.

That said mine went on and stayed on so I didn't test the QR mechanism.

huskie69

Thanks both - the SKS raceblades just edge in there with a slightly better rating than the Cruds.

@homers double - how "solid" are they - are they susceptible to wobble (and bang against rim/tyre) or are they quite stable and firm?

MountainMonster

I had SKS Raceblades on an old bike a few years ago, and I found them to be adequate, but rather noisy and floppy. They stopped a good amount of water getting on my back though, but I don't know what they were like to ride behind.

craigr

Pretty decent coverage with the Cruds and the person behind is protected well too.

Have found them to be brittle though if running in cold weather, so make sure you have spare parts. Generally use a couple of sets a year.

Also first time installing can be fiddly as instructions are not too good, but loads of YouTube installation videos.

kingofthetailwind

When they work properly the Raceblade Longs are as solid as full, proper mudguards. No rattle or wobble when I had them fitted. But like others my rear guard came loose and jammed between the tyre and the brake caliper. Hopefully the new design are better. They don't seem to be available yet. Wiggle says "out of stock".

The standard, shorter Raceblades are crap. Minimal coverage, no protection for the rider behind, and they slowly destroy your seatstays.

Crud Roadracers are a good alternative. Rub a bit and need some occasional adjustment, but provide better coverage, look better and bend well when knocked against stuff.

homers_double

[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19713318#p19713318]huskie69[/url] wrote:

Thanks both - the SKS raceblades just edge in there with a slightly better rating than the Cruds.

@homers double - how "solid" are they - are they susceptible to wobble (and bang against rim/tyre) or are they quite stable and firm?

Mine seemed quite solid for the period I used them for and somewhere there is a thread kicking about with a bodge which eliminates the quick release mechanism which seems to be the point of failure.

I may well use the modification as once I fit them I leave them on rather than faffing about taking them off for a day.

I can't fault them, they worked, kept me dry and didn't fail causing me to die horribly.

huskie69

[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19713368#p19713368]homers double[/url] wrote:

[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19713318#p19713318]huskie69[/url] wrote:

Thanks both - the SKS raceblades just edge in there with a slightly better rating than the Cruds.

@homers double - how "solid" are they - are they susceptible to wobble (and bang against rim/tyre) or are they quite stable and firm?

Mine seemed quite solid for the period I used them for and somewhere there is a thread kicking about with a bodge which eliminates the quick release mechanism which seems to be the point of failure.

I may well use the modification as once I fit them I leave them on rather than faffing about taking them off for a day.

I can't fault them, they worked, kept me dry and didn't fail causing me to die horribly.

Leaving them on as a permanent fixture would be a big problem for me as I wouldn't be able to stick the bike in the boot so ideally the QR would have to be fully functioning.

singleton

I've got raceblade XL's on my CAAD10 for winter use and I've been pleased with them. These have clearance for 25mm tyres and have been sturdy through last year and are still great.

IanRCarter

I've used both Crud Roadracers and SKS Raceblade Longs.

Cruds are cheaper but they're so brittle, they'll end up costing more in the long run as you buy spare parts or new, complete sets. The main danger is catching your foot on them when turning out of a junction at low speeds. I believe they are designed to be brittle so that if they do fail and get caught underneath your fork, in your wheel etc, then they'll just shatter rather than throw you off the bike. They are quite wobbly, especially towards the bottom of the rear mudguard, so the rider behind can get intermittently sprayed. They also move about a bit and can rub on the tyre - it only takes seconds to push the stays out and get the clearance back but it can become annoying.

Raceblades cost nearly twice as much but they are a lot stronger, much more like 'proper' mudguards. When installed, they don't rub, and you can adjust the length of the arms slightly if you need more/less clearance. Main benefit is the QR mechanism, which is great if you want mudguards for your summer bike when it's a bit wet but don't want them on permanently. Been using mine for over a year, they've been on and off a lot and had one QR mechanism break, on the small front part, which isn't really needed anyway. I'd hold off until the new version is out though, I think we're all interested to know if they'll be stronger in this area.

Your other alternative is to get some P-clips and fit 'proper' mudguards.

lesfirth

I have just fitted some Crud Roadracer 2. I suggest before you buy some you look at their website and fitting video. They are very fiddly to fit and not suitable for easy on / off routine. On a commuter bike I think they will last a few weeks if that. I am an engineer by nature and training and from an engineers point of view they are (being polite) very poor. They are doing the job but I do not think it will be for long.

fudgey

Here is a guide i made to "bodge" the raceblade long. After reading about failures i took to chopping my new ones to make them fixed. Not had any issues with them, but once they are fixed its not that much effort to take them off.

viewtopic.php?f=40004&t=13004887&p=19301959&hilit=Raceblade+long#p19301959

fudgey

Oh my mate has the raceblade (non long version) and they just attach to the stays/fork.

Going to mod those too with a bracket to fit under the brake bridge as they rattle like buggery.

huskie69

Maybe a stupid question from some with limited engineering knowledge, but why hasn't anyone come up with something which slots onto the QR spindles/skewers?

Looks like I should hold off then at least until SKS release the updated version of the raceblade (MK3?!)

As for the Crud - why are people paying £20-£30 for something that only seems to last a few rides? It sounds like an appallingly poor designed product and while I appreciate it's 'been made to be brittle' in the event of it falling off, it shouldn't be falling off or getting trapped in the first place :evil:

fudgey

Thats a good point re the slot for the skewer mounts, but its not that much effort to just whip the skewer out completely

or as someone else suggested, just buy normal ones and use some P-clips to fasten, like these.

https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/s/bodywork-fasteners-and-catches/fastenings/p-clips

huskie69

Not sure if this is what I was just banging on about ... looks like someones solved it :?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00NAVSFA8

alex222

I've had Crud Racer's on my winter/commuting bike for two years with no issues. Looks to me like they will last a lot longer too.
Occasionally they rub which is easily sorted with a quick adjustment. Don't think I could get away with 25mm tyres though, which I would prefer, due to tight clearances.

I have recently caught them a couple of times with my foot whilst turning at low speed but they did not break or shatter in anyway. Altogether I am very pleased with them. But if you want to regularly remove them then they are probably not the best option.

fatsmoker

My last Crud's lasted almost 2 years. 3 weeks into a new pair, no issues. Occasional rubs. but easily sorted at the next traffic lights. As a poster above said, if the wheel turns a lot when you stop or at very low speed you will kick them, and that over time will help them to snap. But when they do snap, as my first pair did going down hill, it didn't cause any nastiness.