Winter - Buy same frame or something different?

Fishboyz
Fishboyz Posts: 152
edited September 2015 in Road buying advice
Been looking at a winter/wet weather machine as I don't want to goof up my Scott addict team...

There is the option to grab a bargain this time of year such as a synapse 105 6 or Scott solace. Thing is for a bit more I could stretch to an entry addict 30 with identical geometry.

Just wondering what multi bike folks do as I've been a bit fussy with subtle change such as even the same saddle replaced I could really notice...bike is for weekend use only and maybe a bit of midweek turbo but don't want to suffer the effects of knee niggles etc

thoughts?

Comments

  • bontie
    bontie Posts: 177
    I have used old alloy race frame for the last few seasons, with sks raceblades long. By far the best value for money option. I paid £200-£300 for the frames used. And battered them through winter.

    Now getting something different.

    "Winter frames" have never appealed to me as they have always had tall headtubes and long wheelbases.the recent crop of disc bikes may be better.
  • slowmart
    slowmart Posts: 4,516
    Why not ride your existing bike and have a decent maintenance regime in place?

    It negates the different geometry and potential fit issues while keeping your cash liquid.

    I'm heading for my third winter with my Roubaix and I'll just fit some mudguards to keep the majority of crud off and a thorough clean straight after a Sunday ride.
    “Give a man a fish and feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish and feed him for a lifetime. Teach a man to cycle and he will realize fishing is stupid and boring”

    Desmond Tutu
  • fenix
    fenix Posts: 5,437
    Winter bikes need to be cheaper/older than your best bike and ideally with full guards and bigger clearances.

    In the olden days it'd be your old best bike that gets teh winter hack job after a while - but nowadays a lot of people buy new. I'd never take out my best bike in the salt and the gritty days - plus there's always more risk of an off when it gets slippery.
  • Grill
    Grill Posts: 5,610
    Get a beat up heavy-ass bike for winter. It will make you stronger and you'll appreciate your Addict that much more come spring.
    English Cycles V3 | Cervelo P5 | Cervelo T4 | Trek Domane Koppenberg
  • 964cup
    964cup Posts: 1,362
    Fah. It's an excuse to buy another bike. There's no logic to it; bikes are waterproof and components are replaceable. My new "winter" bike is an Enigma Excel on Super Record. Completely inappropriate, many will say, especially since adding guards, dynamo lights and a rack would have been much easier on something with clearance and braze-ons, but underneath the audax build is a properly fast and light bike, convertible in half-an-hour or so.
  • NeXXus
    NeXXus Posts: 854
    Good chance to buy a disc brake equipped machine
    And the people bowed and prayed, to the neon god they made.
  • slowbike
    slowbike Posts: 8,498
    Fah. It's an excuse to buy another bike. There's no logic to it; bikes are waterproof and components are replaceable. My new "winter" bike is an Enigma Excel on Super Record. Completely inappropriate, many will say, especially since adding guards, dynamo lights and a rack would have been much easier on something with clearance and braze-ons, but underneath the audax build is a properly fast and light bike, convertible in half-an-hour or so.

    To an extent yes, but also if you're a little more cash strapped then trashing a lower spec groupset and wheels doesn't seem quite so bad - hence I've got my old (first) road bike now setup as a winter rider with a mix of 5600 & 5700 on it with a £100 wheelset whilst my "best" road bike has 6700 on it and more expensive wheels ... both frames are the same geometry
  • trek_dan
    trek_dan Posts: 1,366
    Get something with identical geometry if you think its an issue. I bought a Ribble Winter trainer last winter but didn't get on with it one bit so I've just the swapped the groupset over onto a secondhand older version of my current best bike. I much prefer having two bikes setup identical just one with cheaper components and clincher wheels.
  • fenix
    fenix Posts: 5,437
    Fah. It's an excuse to buy another bike. There's no logic to it; bikes are waterproof and components are replaceable. My new "winter" bike is an Enigma Excel on Super Record. Completely inappropriate, many will say, especially since adding guards, dynamo lights and a rack would have been much easier on something with clearance and braze-ons, but underneath the audax build is a properly fast and light bike, convertible in half-an-hour or so.

    Everything is replaceable - but one weekend of the winter crud will wear your drivetrain faster than an entire dry summers riding. Once you're swaddled up in your layers - you're not getting any PBs so there's no need for the best kit to be out.

    If you're anal about cleaning the bike as soon as you finish - then you could maybe get away with it - but I've known people to leave it a week and by then its too late and your nice finish is already corroded....
  • I think it depends on budget. You could go for an expensive option like a custom Ti frame, or, opt for a good quality winter bike such as the Kinesis 4s. A mate of mine has that and I am really impressed with the build. I wouldn't worry about changing bikes for the winter. As long as the contact points are the same (IE tip of saddle to stem, saddle height, reach etc.) you will be fine. Dedicated winter build is the way forward. Permanent mudguards (none of those temporary things that rattle around all over the place) and some quality handbuilt wheels would be the way to go. I am sure the Kinesis would serve you very well.
  • Get something with identical geometry if you think its an issue. I bought a Ribble Winter trainer last winter but didn't get on with it one bit so I've just the swapped the groupset over onto a secondhand older version of my current best bike. I much prefer having two bikes setup identical just one with cheaper components and clincher wheels.

    Think thats where I am if I can find one at the right price
  • 964cup
    964cup Posts: 1,362
    Everything is replaceable - but one weekend of the winter crud will wear your drivetrain faster than an entire dry summers riding. Once you're swaddled up in your layers - you're not getting any PBs so there's no need for the best kit to be out.

    If you're anal about cleaning the bike as soon as you finish - then you could maybe get away with it - but I've known people to leave it a week and by then its too late and your nice finish is already corroded....
    Sure, but we're basically talking about the chain, chainrings and cassette here (with maybe a nod to the jockey wheels). If we're talking Campagnolo, the rings are the same for Chorus, Record & SR; I'm using a Chorus cassette on these wheels; and Record chains are pretty much the same price as Chorus. I grant you that the SR jockey wheels would be a bit more painful to replace, but I've done winters on DA before with no mech issues. The main area of wear will be the wheel rims; hence replacing the R-SYS with handbuilts using Pacenti SL23. If, and I didn't last year, I have to replace chain, rings, cassette, pads and rims after the winter, it's still well under £500 for the lot. More likely they'll last at least two winters. As for the finish, I am pretty anal about cleaning, but the bike is Ti - so will outlast me - and carbon is waterproof. It doesn't live outside, so it's only riding time that matters.
  • NeXXus
    NeXXus Posts: 854
    And the people bowed and prayed, to the neon god they made.
  • drlodge
    drlodge Posts: 4,826
    Get a CX bike for the winter, that way you can go a bit off road if you want.
    WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
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  • Use your current bike then treat yourself to new components and wheels, if needed, after winter :wink:
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