DI2 bikes and bike boxes
Mikomotor
Posts: 15
Hi.
With a trip coming up (Wales in a Day Sportive) I'm dry running the first-time boxing up of my new Cannondale Synapse DI2. A few observations / questions that I'd appreciate help with:
1. Packing my old conventional bike (in B&W 'trapezoid' box) was fairly straightforward, including taking off the rear mech and putting it in some protective bubblewrap. But the rear mech DI2 cable has virtually no play in it and it seems difficult to actually put the mech anywhere safe that doesn't risk stretching / damaging this cable. Anyone else experienced this / solutions? Don't think this cable detaches?
2. Am I right in thinking that pushing the button under the battery charging junction box will disable the battery and avoid any unintended shifting whilst in transit? Also, am I right in thinking that only the MTB version of the Shimano 6870 unit has an on / off lever - can't see one on my road version and Shimano User Manual could be clearer...
3. I've put some plastic tabs in between the disk calipers to prevent these inadvertently closing should brake lever be depressed.
4. Box instructions suggest removing seat post - although once again this isn't so straightforward given the battery unit cable to the post.
All help / tips much appreciated!
Cheers,
Mike.
With a trip coming up (Wales in a Day Sportive) I'm dry running the first-time boxing up of my new Cannondale Synapse DI2. A few observations / questions that I'd appreciate help with:
1. Packing my old conventional bike (in B&W 'trapezoid' box) was fairly straightforward, including taking off the rear mech and putting it in some protective bubblewrap. But the rear mech DI2 cable has virtually no play in it and it seems difficult to actually put the mech anywhere safe that doesn't risk stretching / damaging this cable. Anyone else experienced this / solutions? Don't think this cable detaches?
2. Am I right in thinking that pushing the button under the battery charging junction box will disable the battery and avoid any unintended shifting whilst in transit? Also, am I right in thinking that only the MTB version of the Shimano 6870 unit has an on / off lever - can't see one on my road version and Shimano User Manual could be clearer...
3. I've put some plastic tabs in between the disk calipers to prevent these inadvertently closing should brake lever be depressed.
4. Box instructions suggest removing seat post - although once again this isn't so straightforward given the battery unit cable to the post.
All help / tips much appreciated!
Cheers,
Mike.
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Comments
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my Ultegra Di2 cable just pulls out, see reverse pushing in here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OkdY9q-u5Dk&feature=youtu.be&t=145
Keeping the button pressed on mine just shows if your battery is charged or not but newer systems may be different.0 -
my Ultegra Di2 cable just pulls out, see reverse pushing in here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OkdY9q-u5Dk&feature=youtu.be&t=145
Keeping the button pressed on mine just shows if your battery is charged or not but newer systems may be different.
Thanks - appreciate that. So looks as though I need to buy the 'magic tool' re. cabling for my Ultegra set up.0 -
my Ultegra Di2 cable just pulls out, see reverse pushing in here
Under NO circumstances do this! The wires are weather sealed when they are first clipped in. Overtime you detach them you reduce the waterproofing seal effectiveness.
If your bike is in a bike box then the Di2 will be absolutely fine. Worst case scenario and it falls out of your car and lands on the rear derailleur at 40mph then the crash protection will kick in and all will be well.0 -
my Ultegra Di2 cable just pulls out, see reverse pushing in here
Under NO circumstances do this! The wires are weather sealed when they are first clipped in. Overtime you detach them you reduce the waterproofing seal effectiveness.
Not saying thats not best practice (so you can never disconnect a cable?) but i'm 20,000kms on mine now through 2 Winters, 1 Summer and lots of jetwashes and all good.
YMMV.0 -
my Ultegra Di2 cable just pulls out, see reverse pushing in here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OkdY9q-u5Dk&feature=youtu.be&t=145
Keeping the button pressed on mine just shows if your battery is charged or not but newer systems may be different.
With multi-shift enabled on e-tube systems, you risk bending the cable hanger or damaging the rear mech motor if the shifter button is kept pressed down without pedalling the bike.0 -
my Ultegra Di2 cable just pulls out, see reverse pushing in here
Under NO circumstances do this! The wires are weather sealed when they are first clipped in. Overtime you detach them you reduce the waterproofing seal effectiveness.
It's not recommended, but in reality, as long as you don't do it a whole load of times and make sure you seat the connectors securely using the correct tool, then it will be fine.0 -
The connectors are detachable and re-usable but the advice is not do this unnecessarily, for the reasons stated. The plastic tool to extract & fit the connectors is a cheap as chips thing that most shops should have a spare lying around and will be happy to lend or give you. I've got two.
Not sure about the button that you describe, on mine the button on junction A puts it into indexing mode or resets crash protection mode, but yours may differ. I'd just take the battery out to prevent it activating in transit, or disconnect the lead from there to the rest of the system. Battery out would be the better bet.
It all sounds a bit overboard to me, removing the mech from the bike and packing it separately.0 -
The connectors are detachable and re-usable but the advice is not do this unnecessarily, for the reasons stated. The plastic tool to extract & fit the connectors is a cheap as chips thing that most shops should have a spare lying around and will be happy to lend or give you. I've got two.
Not sure about the button that you describe, on mine the button on junction A puts it into indexing mode or resets crash protection mode, but yours may differ. I'd just take the battery out to prevent it activating in transit, or disconnect the lead from there to the rest of the system. Battery out would be the better bet.
It all sounds a bit overboard to me, removing the mech from the bike and packing it separately.
Many thanks for everyone's help on this. Yes - it's only because the Box manual instructs the user to remove the rear mech that I usually do so. But given this new bike / DI2 I'll have another look to see if non-removal appears to carry any real risks.
Cheers.0 -
It may be a good idea to remove the mech to avoid damaging the hanger but I'd just put a little bubble wrap around it a tie wrap it to a stay without disconnecting it.
The more I read about the challenges of internal batteries, the more I'm glad both of my Di2 bikes have external batteries. I just pop the thing out. Voila.ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH0 -
Currently sitting in an airport lounge, with my bike in an EVOC bag on the way to plane, now worrying that I didn't disconnect my Di2....(internal battery!)
But it's always been fine on flights so far....0 -
i'd just fully charge it before going away, also with me i had an issue after getting the bike out of the bike bag where my front mech wouldn't shift. loose di2 wire. check your connections. i went for the external batteries as well and take 2 with me if i'm to go abroad both fully charged. i remove the battery or disconnect for travel. job done. oh and take a couple of spare cables just in case.0
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Funnily enough, built the bike up again today, and the rear mech was going a bit loopy, too far down and not reacting to the shifter button correctly.
A did a Junction A box reset, lots of mech whirring happened, and then all was good again.
I assume the mech got biffed at some point, but that's odd as it's the most protected area of all in the bag.0
