Axle position in Drop outs & Clearances - 28C on 500SE

wolfsbane2k
wolfsbane2k Posts: 3,056
edited September 2015 in Road general
Hi.

Sorry, silly question.

I've got a 500SE which I had fitted with a 28 tyre at the shop when I bought it, as recommended by the bloke in the shop.

Yesterday, I replaced the original brake blocks with some koolstop salmons, and when putting the front wheel back in noticed that if I put the wheel to the top of the dropouts ( my normal behaviour) , I've got less than a hairwidth clearance left between the brake calipers and the tyre, which I just don't like.

However, the drop outs have a lip on them that looks like the axle is meant to sit on before tightening them up, which I've never seen before. If I tighten them up in this position, I've got about 4mm spare.

is this what the lips are for?

Ta!
Intent on Cycling Commuting on a budget, but keep on breaking/crashing/finding nice stuff to buy.
Bike 1 (Broken) - Bike 2(Borked) - Bike 3(broken spokes) - Bike 4( Needs Work) - Bike 5 (in bits) - Bike 6* ...

Comments

  • DeVlaeminck
    DeVlaeminck Posts: 9,106
    If I'm reading you right the lips will be to keep the wheel from coming out should you not fully tighten the quick release - I believe they are a legal requirement in some countries (possibly also the UK).

    I would put the wheel right up the dropout before tightening as otherwise it could easily slip more to one side unless you clamped it with an awful lot of force, ignore the lips.
    [Castle Donington Ladies FC - going up in '22]
  • fenix
    fenix Posts: 5,437
    Couldn't you change the position of the brake blocks ? Bring them lower on the calipers if you're worried about them touching the tyre ?
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    [url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19700728#p19700728]Fenix[/url] wrote:
    Couldn't you change the position of the brake blocks ? Bring them lower on the calipers if you're worried about them touching the tyre ?

    I think the reference to KoolStop salmons is a red herring if you'll excuse the mixed fish metaphor.

    He's saying that the tyre is really close to the actual caliper. My CR1-SL has 25mm Michelin Pro4 SC which come up larger than 25mm, and there's not much space twixt tyre tread and caliper. It definitely wouldn't take a 28.

    To the OP as advised above, you should ignore the lips and fully seat the wheel in the dropouts, preferably with the weight of the bike on it, before tightening the QR. Maybe you could try the same tyre as me, at least on the front? They measure 26-27mm when inflated. If the 28mm tyre is OK on the back, keep the one you take off the front as a spare for when you wear it out.

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