Your vintage bike

rolf_f
rolf_f Posts: 16,015
edited August 2017 in Vintage bikes forum
Go on then, I'll do it. It needs to be done. Somewhere to post your vintage pride and joy so it doesn't get lost amongst the plastic of the main 'Your Road Bikes' forum. Nothing too glamorous to start with.

My Raleigh Record Ace from 1980. The saddle I bought it with was a horrible plastic lump so I replaced it with a brown suede Vetta that is not dissimilar to the original but probably more comfortable. I have now refitted the original gold Bluemels mudguards. Still need some decent cloth bar tape on it and ideally the wheels rebuilding. They are the correct type (unlike those it came with) but the rear has a ding in it which you can feel on braking, one rim has non stainless spokes and one has clearly been respoked because the valve hole is in the wrong place. But none of this is really essential. All the original Suntour is present but the Weinmann calipers are currently in a box with the much better Suntour Superbe calipers an honourable upgrade.

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Faster than a tent.......
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Comments

  • The old schwin world racer. Bought this baby from a guy I used to work with for 50 bucks. It was kind of beat up when I got it. The front derailleur was shot and the tires were cracked and didn't look like they had been changed since the bike was bought. I took the baby in and slowly I started to learn about biking with it. The aerodynamics, what's not needed, what's needed. I eventually stripped her down, got rid of the front derailleur, took off the kickstand and the lighting. Took off everything I didn't need and then I started adding parts. New rear derailleur, new tires, new rims and eventually it led into the bike you see in the picture. That bike was involved in a collision that damaged the frame. It was traumatic but it really was for the best because I ended up getting a much better frame and crankset. Those two things alone took me to the next evolution of biking which was last winter in November. I quit biking from then till early August. I picked back up and so far have gotten a new freewheel with a smallest cog a tooth smaller than the one I had on previously. This step has really changed things and looks to be the next evolution in my biking journey. I am now gliding down the street. The best bike I ever rode was this fixed gear bike that my friend stole when we were kids. Man that bike used to glide. I mean each peddle you could go far and felt like you could stride like a gazelle. This 13 teeth cog is the closest I've ever felt to that bike. Im now gliding with ease.
  • There she goes
  • Agent57
    Agent57 Posts: 2,300
    b2.jpg

    Reynolds 531c main tubes, SunTour Accushift indexed gears. Bought in 1988 IIRC, and it was my "everyday"/road ride/commuting bike until about 2009. Still in the garage, but has been replaced by a carbon fibre racer and a TriCross for commuting.
    MTB commuter / 531c commuter / CR1 Team 2009 / RockHopper Pro Disc / 10 mile PB: 25:52 (Jun 2014)
  • Monty Dog
    Monty Dog Posts: 20,614
    Or5WX.jpg

    My Gios Aerodynamic in L'eroica mode shod with Vittoria file-tread CX tubs
    Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..

  • Quite easily. I've found this to be the best set up for saving my balls. Notice how the other saddles the nose comes up. When you're riding, especially when leaned forward in an aerodynamic position, that saddle is going to be pressing uo on your balls and causing strain to your privates. With my set up, when you're leaned forward the nose is depressed and the combination of your legs,positioning and arms to the handle bars supports you and there's little stress to your privates. You can rest your sit bones on the curve of the backside of the saddle. Real comfortable. Never had pain with it.
  • imposter2.0
    imposter2.0 Posts: 12,028

    Quite easily. I've found this to be the best set up for saving my balls. Notice how the other saddles the nose comes up. When you're riding, especially when leaned forward in an aerodynamic position, that saddle is going to be pressing uo on your balls and causing strain to your privates. With my set up, when you're leaned forward the nose is depressed and the combination of your legs,positioning and arms to the handle bars supports you and there's little stress to your privates. You can rest your sit bones on the curve of the backside of the saddle. Real comfortable. Never had pain with it.

    Won't be long before your knees start to play up. Maybe you just need a more comfortable saddle. That's the most absurdly extreme saddle angle I think I've ever seen on a road bike.

  • Quite easily. I've found this to be the best set up for saving my balls. Notice how the other saddles the nose comes up. When you're riding, especially when leaned forward in an aerodynamic position, that saddle is going to be pressing uo on your balls and causing strain to your privates. With my set up, when you're leaned forward the nose is depressed and the combination of your legs,positioning and arms to the handle bars supports you and there's little stress to your privates. You can rest your sit bones on the curve of the backside of the saddle. Real comfortable. Never had pain with it.

    Won't be long before your knees start to play up. Maybe you just need a more comfortable saddle. That's the most absurdly extreme saddle angle I think I've ever seen on a road bike.

    My knees are pretty strong and its the most comfortable saddle I can imagine. I hop off it and I can get a hard on. They make saddles now with no nose. Its the nose and front portion of the saddle that puts pressure on your balls no matter the type of saddle you have.
  • DKay
    DKay Posts: 1,652
    The saddle should support your sit bones and put minimal pressure on your perineum and not your scrotum. Your cycling shorts should be close fitting enough to locate your nuts up and away from the saddle, so you're never actually sitting on them, no matter what the shape of the saddle!

    I'm glad your crazy saddle angle works for you, but for everyone else, it's very abnormal and would lead to huge amounts of strain though the hands, wrists, arms, shoulders and back.
  • There she goes


    Oh dear.

    You need a bike fit matey.
    Trek,,,, too cool for school ,, apparently
  • I love how people that have never ridden the bike are telling me how uncomfortable the saddle position is. Its the most comfortable position and saddle and it doesn't hurt my privates like other saddles do. Everyone I've heard bike has said their saddle is uncomfortable and hurts them. They all have the front end of the saddle high and at the same level as the rest of the saddle. No thanks.

    Tell me, which bike looks more comfortable if you are leaned forward in an aerodynamic pose? The two above with the front sides that will put pressure on your privates or mine which is pointed down. You guys should try the position before making conclusions about it.
  • rolf_f
    rolf_f Posts: 16,015
    You guys should try the position before making conclusions about it.

    What about these guys? They'll tell you the same as us! :wink:

    Team_Sky_bikes_before_the_race.jpg
    Faster than a tent.......
  • DKay
    DKay Posts: 1,652
    I love how people that have never ridden the bike are telling me how uncomfortable the saddle position is. Its the most comfortable position and saddle and it doesn't hurt my privates like other saddles do. Everyone I've heard bike has said their saddle is uncomfortable and hurts them. They all have the front end of the saddle high and at the same level as the rest of the saddle. No thanks.

    Tell me, which bike looks more comfortable if you are leaned forward in an aerodynamic pose? The two above with the front sides that will put pressure on your privates or mine which is pointed down. You guys should try the position before making conclusions about it.

    Actually how many cyclists have you spoken to in your sample, who said that their saddle hurts them? I have both of the saddles on my bikes with the nose actually angled up by a couple of degrees and they are comfortable to the point where I don't notice them.

    As for aero positions, below is a pic of Wiggo's hour record TT bike. Note the saddle angle:

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    Alex Dowsett's hour record bike. Note the saddle angle.

    Dowsetts-Hour-Bike-01.jpg

    These guys have got it all wrong, yes? :?
  • Oh dear . . .

    Aero does not mean being wedged forward rammed up against the bars and permanently 'on the rivet', to paraphrase Mr Kelly.

    Saddles are designed to be level to evenly distribute riders weight between feet, sit bones and hands.
    1 or 2 degrees nose up or down to suit personal preference but that's it!
    Edinburgh Revolution Curve
    http://app.strava.com/athletes/1920048
  • [quote="

    Alex Dowsett's hour record bike. Note the saddle angle.

    Dowsetts-Hour-Bike-01.jpg

    These guys have got it all wrong, yes? :?[/quote]

    Yes. If I were taking a pic I'd have line up the campag logo's on the wheels.
    Advocate of disc brakes.
  • You guys should try the position before making conclusions about it.

    What about these guys? They'll tell you the same as us! :wink:

    Team_Sky_bikes_before_the_race.jpg


    How expensive are their seats,though? Sure you can probably ride a bike with the nose angles up against your crot,h, putting pressure on it as you lean forward with 200+ bike seats. I've ridden both positions and I've found that my angle relieves pressure and allows for more comfortable when aerodynamic than a straightforward position. This is my experience. Trying to argue with someone over something they've experienced is silly
  • DKay
    DKay Posts: 1,652
    What has that cost of a saddle got to do with it's position? You could buy a £10 saddle, or a £300 saddle, but how you position it is totally independent of how much it costs. Besides, a brand new Prologo saddle can be had for under £50. A Charge Spoon can be had for under £20.

    We do agree on one thing though; trying to reason with somebody who steadfastly believes that their crazy position is correct, despite what everyone else knows, uses and advises, is indeed, silly. If it works for you, then fine. But all of the reasons you've given so far to justify your position are nonsensical. So let's just stop, shall we, as we're clearly getting nowhere.
  • rolf_f
    rolf_f Posts: 16,015
    So let's just stop, shall we, as we're clearly getting nowhere.

    Yes, lets. This is supposed to be a thread where classy individuals post their classy vintage bikes and instead we've been forced into posting pics of ugly plastic bikes which is all wrong.

    So lets see some more nice bikes please!
    Faster than a tent.......
  • random man
    random man Posts: 1,518
    I hope this is nice enough. I built it last year, collecting parts from ebay and retrobike. It rides great as well.
  • fnb1
    fnb1 Posts: 591
    my old steed now with a fresh lick of paint, ;-)
    fay ce que voudres
  • napoleond
    napoleond Posts: 5,992
    my old steed now with a fresh lick of paint, ;-)

    Nice, but what's with the saddle being level? Try pointing the front down a fair bit, you can ride faster and be more aero.
    Insta: ATEnduranceCoaching
    ABCC Cycling Coach
  • fnb1
    fnb1 Posts: 591
    :-)))

    Will get it sorted NapD
    fay ce que voudres
  • pblakeney
    pblakeney Posts: 25,776
    I hop off it and I can get a hard on.
    Sniggers.
    Laughs.
    Guffaws.
    Walks away it tears.
    Comes back to apologise to the affected but laughs again.......
    Thank you for making my day!
    The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
    I am not sure. You have no chance.
    Veronese68 wrote:
    PB is the most sensible person on here.
  • Vitus 979 frame size 53cm. Mavic 172.5mm crank, chainrings, and derailleurs. Dura Ace freewheel 11-24 (pictured is a cheap Shimano 14-28 that I just put on last week as we have some 11% grades here), chain, brakes, and seat post. GL330 Mavic wheels and hubs. Carbon seat. Bought used from the original owner maybe around 1990 when it was 1-2 years old. Came with a new spare rear derailleur and Dura Ace crankset. 7 speed friction shift. I think I paid about $900 back then. I rode it 32 miles on Sunday. It is still in the same condition as when I bought it as for some reason I didn't ride road-bikes for 20+ years. This is the second set of tires. Came with Mavic clipless pedals but I have on SPD now.

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  • peat
    peat Posts: 1,242
    I gone done saved a Peugout from a skip.

    Not a glorious model, but it was in reasonable condition. A bloody good clean, new wheels, tyres, cables and bar tape and it rides like a dream. A mid 80's French dream:
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  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    1948 Raleigh record ace frame and fork. Not built up yet. No pic. Restored though.

    Vitus 992 not quite finished yet as I should fit the period saddle vitus seat post and mavic cranks.P1010163_zps346d6b97.jpg
    Trek 2300 I use this bike quite alot. Lovely ride.
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    Klein quantum. Not finished yet but getting there.DSC00195_zpsj121vtbj.jpg
    Pinarello monvisio
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    1980 Alan competizione
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    1991 Sannino all spacers below the stem have been removed.
    P1010218_zpsjdhxrqta.jpg

    I like my old mtb's too
    1991 trek 8900
    DSC00180_zpsevqevyjn.jpg
    Don't have a photo of my scott racing pro.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • veronese68
    veronese68 Posts: 27,324
    Some very nice bikes there Malcolm, hardly surprising. The head angle and forks on the Alan are so steep it almost looks like they bend backwards near the top. The Klein is lovely, always liked Kleins MTB and road. I like the forks on the Trek MTB, quite fancy something like that for my old Marin.
  • The biggest advance in my new bike vs my vintage is not having to take my hands off the brakes to shift while drafting.
  • Here's mine, just back on the road for another winter of duty. New to me in 1986, restored a few years back. Back end cold-set from 120 to 130mm, handbuilt modern wheels with 8 speed SRAM and a 46-34 chainset.

    I have a decent modern winter bike (Kinesis) but use old steely a lot, especially for night time winter training, shod with 25c Gator Hardshell which are in many ways awful tyres but far more robust for avoiding cold night time tube changes than my usual GP4S. They are also very easy to get on and off the Ambrosio rims, a very important factor on cold wet nights!

    Despite the hard tyres, it's lovely to ride and arguably better than the Kinesis for being abused through winter, with its simpler mechanicals.

    DSC_0584.jpg
  • My c.1950 Freddie Grubb frame. Re-sprayed early 1990's, doing good touring service these days.

    22287476572_d79531e2fd_h.jpghttps://flic.kr/p/zXt9is