Getting head around Gear Changing on Microshift Drop Bar
wolfsbane2k
Posts: 3,056
HI.
I've recently got a BTWin 500 SE after 14+ MTB years, and am having so much trouble getting my head around the gear changes - changes up & down seem very odd. I'm not sure if this is just Microshift, or generally road gears.
Add a lack of a a visual indicator, i'm finding im really making massive mistakes, even after 100 miles in the saddle now.
THe microshift stuff is :
Left hand - Front derailiuer - Changing Up gear, Big Button.
Right hand - rear Derailleur - Changing Down gear - Big Button.
In this, "up" and "down" means making cycling easier/harder.
Is this "normal" for all road bike gearing? And is there any specific mindset that people use to make the transition?
Ta
I've recently got a BTWin 500 SE after 14+ MTB years, and am having so much trouble getting my head around the gear changes - changes up & down seem very odd. I'm not sure if this is just Microshift, or generally road gears.
Add a lack of a a visual indicator, i'm finding im really making massive mistakes, even after 100 miles in the saddle now.
THe microshift stuff is :
Left hand - Front derailiuer - Changing Up gear, Big Button.
Right hand - rear Derailleur - Changing Down gear - Big Button.
In this, "up" and "down" means making cycling easier/harder.
Is this "normal" for all road bike gearing? And is there any specific mindset that people use to make the transition?
Ta
Intent on Cycling Commuting on a budget, but keep on breaking/crashing/finding nice stuff to buy.
Bike 1 (Broken) - Bike 2(Borked) - Bike 3(broken spokes) - Bike 4( Needs Work) - Bike 5 (in bits) - Bike 6* ...
Bike 1 (Broken) - Bike 2(Borked) - Bike 3(broken spokes) - Bike 4( Needs Work) - Bike 5 (in bits) - Bike 6* ...
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Comments
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HI.
I've recently got a BTWin 500 SE after 14+ MTB years, and am having so much trouble getting my head around the gear changes
And is there any specific mindset that people use to make the transition?
I ride MTB and Road, often mixing during the week (MTB when I want an easier day and some fun). I've never thought about it before, it all comes naturally. I'm sure you'll be fine once you've done a few more hours.BASI Nordic Ski Instructor
Instagramme0 -
Think of it this way:
The big button is actually a lever - it pulls cable. You need to pull the rear derailleur to move it to a bigger cog, making it easier. You need to pull the front derailleur to move it to the bigger cog, too, but that makes it harder. By the same token the small button is a button which releases cable. That lets the rear derailleur move down toa smaller cog, pulled by spring tension in the derailleur; this makes it harder. The same release action and spring tension in the front derailleur moves that to the smaller cog, which makes cycling easier.
If you think about the actual gear ratios involved it's much easier to avoid an error. For a bigger cog at either end, work the lever. For a smaller cog at either end, push the button.0 -
As above. Alternatively, push the left lever right to send the front mech to the right; push the right lever left to send the rear mech left.0
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HI.
I've recently got a BTWin 500 SE after 14+ MTB years, and am having so much trouble getting my head around the gear changes - changes up & down seem very odd. I'm not sure if this is just Microshift, or generally road gears.
Add a lack of a a visual indicator, i'm finding im really making massive mistakes, even after 100 miles in the saddle now.
THe microshift stuff is :
Left hand - Front derailiuer - Changing Up gear, Big Button.
Right hand - rear Derailleur - Changing Down gear - Big Button.
In this, "up" and "down" means making cycling easier/harder.
Is this "normal" for all road bike gearing? And is there any specific mindset that people use to make the transition?
Ta
Yes the principle is the same for all Shimano road dual/STI type controls, you are over thinking it. Did anyone in the store go through the operation of the gear shifters with you? Can you find a quiet section of road and spend and hour or so just practicing gear changes, eventually you will get the hang of it.
http://www.microshift.com.tw/installation/Dual_Control_Levers_Road.pdf0 -
Very much agree with the others who've said that thinking about gears is made easier by understanding what's actually going on.In this, "up" and "down" means making cycling easier/harder.
But conventionally, 'up' and 'down' are the opposite way round to the way you've put it.
Changing down (in cars also) gives you more crank revs per wheel rev, thus making it easier to climb hills.
Changing up gives fewer crank revs per wheel rev, making engine/crank/pedal rpm lower for a given speed - usually most useful on the flat or downhill.Is the gorilla tired yet?0 -
Thanks all.
It is obviously a case of overthinking it - if I'm just changing the rear derailleur, it's all subconscious and works well. It's when I try and change both front and rear at the same time to keep a similar gear ratio that it all goes wrong, resulting in either a complete stop from going up too many gears, or spinning wildly and loosing balance - especially when coming to a junction I need to stop at!
Guess this is a case of more practice needed and practice makes perfect!Intent on Cycling Commuting on a budget, but keep on breaking/crashing/finding nice stuff to buy.
Bike 1 (Broken) - Bike 2(Borked) - Bike 3(broken spokes) - Bike 4( Needs Work) - Bike 5 (in bits) - Bike 6* ...0 -
Ah, but that's easy. To make it easier, you push both buttons (smaller cog at both ends). To make it harder, you push both levers (larger cog at both ends).Thanks all.
It is obviously a case of overthinking it - if I'm just changing the rear derailleur, it's all subconscious and works well. It's when I try and change both front and rear at the same time to keep a similar gear ratio that it all goes wrong, resulting in either a complete stop from going up too many gears, or spinning wildly and loosing balance - especially when coming to a junction I need to stop at!
Guess this is a case of more practice needed and practice makes perfect!
Technically, to get a similar ratio on most 10/11 speed setups you need to go two cogs at the rear, rather than one, and it's better to do the rear change a little before the front, but that all comes with practice.0 -
I think of it like this:
Push the big lever to put it on a bigger Cog (front or back).
Push the small lever to put it on a smaller cog (front or back).
Simples0 -
Well I'm now 800 miles in, and have finally got it I think.
The lack of position indicators occasionally gets me, and I've thrown the chain of a few times now, so need to refettle, but not stacking it like I used to!Intent on Cycling Commuting on a budget, but keep on breaking/crashing/finding nice stuff to buy.
Bike 1 (Broken) - Bike 2(Borked) - Bike 3(broken spokes) - Bike 4( Needs Work) - Bike 5 (in bits) - Bike 6* ...0 -
If the chain is coming off when shifting to inner/outer positions on the cassette and/or chainrings, check the limit setting on the F & R derailleurs.0
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Yeah, I have fixed those. I think a big part of it at the time was a dirty chain, so not quite as supple as it could have been, and trying to go outwards both on front and back at the same time as I peak over the top of a hill and put the power down was also the culprit!If the chain is coming off when shifting to inner/outer positions on the cassette and/or chainrings, check the limit setting on the F & R derailleurs.Intent on Cycling Commuting on a budget, but keep on breaking/crashing/finding nice stuff to buy.
Bike 1 (Broken) - Bike 2(Borked) - Bike 3(broken spokes) - Bike 4( Needs Work) - Bike 5 (in bits) - Bike 6* ...0 -
Yeah, I have fixed those. I think a big part of it at the time was a dirty chain, so not quite as supple as it could have been, and trying to go outwards both on front and back at the same time as I peak over the top of a hill and put the power down was also the culprit!If the chain is coming off when shifting to inner/outer positions on the cassette and/or chainrings, check the limit setting on the F & R derailleurs.
Regardless of what you're gears you're shifting simulaneously, you shouldn't be able to throw your chain off if everything is set up correctly. Besides, shifting from the small to large chainring alone should be more than sufficient once you're over the top of a hill.0 -
Regardless of what you're gears you're shifting simulaneously, you shouldn't be able to throw your chain off if everything is set up correctly. Besides, shifting from the small to large chainring alone should be more than sufficient once you're over the top of a hill.
Aye, yet i've still done it despite fettling twice myself and now had it done by shop as well. Really not sure why it's doing it.
And indeed, it should be, but having now ridden the route/hill for 3 weeks, i've learnt the best gearing for the slight upwards incline, then very steep decline as i peal away down the hill means i'm typically spinning out before I actually get into the right gear unless i get it "spot on".... heavy rider, steep hill, fast approach.Intent on Cycling Commuting on a budget, but keep on breaking/crashing/finding nice stuff to buy.
Bike 1 (Broken) - Bike 2(Borked) - Bike 3(broken spokes) - Bike 4( Needs Work) - Bike 5 (in bits) - Bike 6* ...0
