buying a new bike - 3 year services vs disk brakes
mike_f
Posts: 5
my 12 year old marin mountain bike has broken frame and I am looking for a replacement
I have tested a few bikes and short listed to these 2 bikes both in the sales
- Giant Escape 0 2015
£519 (reduced from £650)
plus 3 years of free services, lifetime warranty on frame
- Whyte Portobello 2015 Bike
£584 (reduced from £750)
2 year warranty on frame
I think I prefer the portobello as it has disk brakes and only 2 front cogs, looks less flash. however the Giant has great warranty and services , so I am torn between the two. Please can anybody advise me. I'm based in london and wonder if disk brakes are make the bike more steal-able
here are the specs
Giant Escape 0 2015 Mens Bike
* Frame: ALUXX-Grade Aluminium
* Fork: Giant Composite, ALUXX Steerer
* Cranks: Shimano T551 26/36/48
* Bottom Bracket: Shimano SM-BB51
* Pedals: Giant Sports
* Front Derailleur: Shimano Deore LX
* Rear Derailleur: Shimano Deore
* Shifters: Shimano Deore 30 speed
* Cassette: Shimano HG62 11-34
* Chain: KMC X10 w/Missing Link
* Hubs: Giant
* Rims: Giant S-X2
* Tyres: Giant S-X2 puncture protect 700x32mm
* Brakes: Tektro TK837
* Brake Levers: Tektro CL530-RS
* Handlebar: Giant Sport Low riser 620mm
* Stem: Giant Sport, 15 degree rise
* Saddle: Giant Connect Upright
* Seatpost: Giant Sport 30.9mm
Whyte Portobello 2015 Bike
* Frame: 6061 Hydro Formed T6 Aluminium, Custom Drawn, Multi Butted with Custom Whyte Dropouts
* Fork: Straight Bladed Carbon Front Fork with Alloy Steerer Tube, Full Carbon Dropout and eyelet for Mud Gaurds
* Cranks: FSA Tempo 50-34, 9 Speed, Compact
* Bottom Bracket: FSA Square Taper
* Pedals: Fibre reinforced Composite with Toe Clip
* Front Derailleur: Shimano Sora FD-3500, 9 Speed
* Rear Derailleur: Shimano Sora RD-3500, 9 Speed
* Shifters: Shimano Sora SL-3500, 9 Speed
* Cassette: Shiamno HG-300, 11-32 9 Speed
* Chain: Shimano HG-53, 9 Speed
* Front Hub: Alloy, Cup & Cone, Double Seal, 28 Hole
* Rear Hub: Alloy, Cup & Cone, Double Seal, 32 Hole
* Rims: Alex Black Dragon 24, Deep Section, Disk Specific Road, 32 Hole Rear and 28 Front, Reflective 3M decals
* Tyres: Maxxis Detonator, 700 x 28c, Black, with Puncture Protection
* Brakes: Tektro Auriga, Light weight 160mm Rotor
* Brake Levers: Tektro Auriga
* Handlebar: Whyte Narrow, 31.8mm, 20mm Rise, 580mm Wide
* Headset: FSA No. 23 Integrated Road, 1 1/8" Sealed Cartridge Bearings, 41mm Diameter
* Stem: Whyte, 70mm S, 80mm M, 90mm L & XL
* Grips: Whyte Custom Dual Density Lock-on's
* Saddle: Whyte Custom, Triple Panel Design
* Seatpost: Whyte 20mm Offset, 27.2mm x 350mm, 6061 Alloy, 2 Bolt Clamp
* Weight: 10.3KG
I have tested a few bikes and short listed to these 2 bikes both in the sales
- Giant Escape 0 2015
£519 (reduced from £650)
plus 3 years of free services, lifetime warranty on frame
- Whyte Portobello 2015 Bike
£584 (reduced from £750)
2 year warranty on frame
I think I prefer the portobello as it has disk brakes and only 2 front cogs, looks less flash. however the Giant has great warranty and services , so I am torn between the two. Please can anybody advise me. I'm based in london and wonder if disk brakes are make the bike more steal-able
here are the specs
Giant Escape 0 2015 Mens Bike
* Frame: ALUXX-Grade Aluminium
* Fork: Giant Composite, ALUXX Steerer
* Cranks: Shimano T551 26/36/48
* Bottom Bracket: Shimano SM-BB51
* Pedals: Giant Sports
* Front Derailleur: Shimano Deore LX
* Rear Derailleur: Shimano Deore
* Shifters: Shimano Deore 30 speed
* Cassette: Shimano HG62 11-34
* Chain: KMC X10 w/Missing Link
* Hubs: Giant
* Rims: Giant S-X2
* Tyres: Giant S-X2 puncture protect 700x32mm
* Brakes: Tektro TK837
* Brake Levers: Tektro CL530-RS
* Handlebar: Giant Sport Low riser 620mm
* Stem: Giant Sport, 15 degree rise
* Saddle: Giant Connect Upright
* Seatpost: Giant Sport 30.9mm
Whyte Portobello 2015 Bike
* Frame: 6061 Hydro Formed T6 Aluminium, Custom Drawn, Multi Butted with Custom Whyte Dropouts
* Fork: Straight Bladed Carbon Front Fork with Alloy Steerer Tube, Full Carbon Dropout and eyelet for Mud Gaurds
* Cranks: FSA Tempo 50-34, 9 Speed, Compact
* Bottom Bracket: FSA Square Taper
* Pedals: Fibre reinforced Composite with Toe Clip
* Front Derailleur: Shimano Sora FD-3500, 9 Speed
* Rear Derailleur: Shimano Sora RD-3500, 9 Speed
* Shifters: Shimano Sora SL-3500, 9 Speed
* Cassette: Shiamno HG-300, 11-32 9 Speed
* Chain: Shimano HG-53, 9 Speed
* Front Hub: Alloy, Cup & Cone, Double Seal, 28 Hole
* Rear Hub: Alloy, Cup & Cone, Double Seal, 32 Hole
* Rims: Alex Black Dragon 24, Deep Section, Disk Specific Road, 32 Hole Rear and 28 Front, Reflective 3M decals
* Tyres: Maxxis Detonator, 700 x 28c, Black, with Puncture Protection
* Brakes: Tektro Auriga, Light weight 160mm Rotor
* Brake Levers: Tektro Auriga
* Handlebar: Whyte Narrow, 31.8mm, 20mm Rise, 580mm Wide
* Headset: FSA No. 23 Integrated Road, 1 1/8" Sealed Cartridge Bearings, 41mm Diameter
* Stem: Whyte, 70mm S, 80mm M, 90mm L & XL
* Grips: Whyte Custom Dual Density Lock-on's
* Saddle: Whyte Custom, Triple Panel Design
* Seatpost: Whyte 20mm Offset, 27.2mm x 350mm, 6061 Alloy, 2 Bolt Clamp
* Weight: 10.3KG
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Comments
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I thought Marin did a lifetime guarantee on the frame... not sure how it would work in practice though, and how you'd prove ownership from new.my 12 year old marin mountain bike has broken frame and I am looking for a replacement0 -
Are the services something that you'd do in practice - as in have you had your current bike serviced regularly or do you DIY? Is the free servicing "all inclusive" (does it include replacement wear & tear parts?)
I'd buy the bike I liked the most - but I do all my own servicing and acquire the consumable parts as I see them on offer so I'm always ready to service whenever it's required.0 -
I always get bike shops to do my service, the 3 years is only labour and value is £45 for 6 services over 3 years. which is good for me as I'm useless at adjusting brakes.
m0 -
Minor differences in specification like number of chainrings will not prevent a bike being stolen. I wouldn't expect there to be any significant difference in after-sales care between a giant and a whyte.
As regards disk brakes, they won't make it more or less desirable to thieves (opportunist thieves will steal whatever is the easiest target). The difference they will make is more reliable all weather braking, whereas rim brakes are not as good in the wet.
Notably both of the bikes you've highlighted are hybrids, is that intentional given you are replacing a mountain bike?0 -
I wouldn't expect there to be any significant difference in after-sales care between a giant and a whyte.
in terms of after care
the Giant has 3 years of free service and lifetime warranty. Whyte has 2 year frame and no service.
how do the specs look between them?
is the giant better specs?
thx
mike0 -
Not a lot in it.
In summary, the giant has less good brakes, but a wider range of gears which you may find useful depending on your fitness. The whyte has better brakes but a narrower range of gears.
On the after-care front I have fallen foul of thinking about what I do - personally I maintain all my own bikes, for me its easier - no having to book in services or the like, and I find the mechanicals interesting. If you don't wish to do that then yes I can see the appeal of 3 years servicing.
Go have a sit on them and go for the one you feel happiest on is the best advice I can offer here, both are decent bikes
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I always get bike shops to do my service, the 3 years is only labour and value is £45 for 6 services over 3 years. which is good for me as I'm useless at adjusting brakes.
m
Is that £45 per service or £45 for 6? If the latter than I'd get the disc brakes without question (I'd get them anyway to be honest)0 -
I always get bike shops to do my service, the 3 years is only labour and value is £45 for 6 services over 3 years. which is good for me as I'm useless at adjusting brakes.
m
Is that £45 per service or £45 for 6? If the latter than I'd get the disc brakes without question (I'd get them anyway to be honest)
It's free service , each of the 6 x services are worth £45
I brought the Giant, I went for the cheapest deal, part of me thinks the whyte was nicer
mike0 -
Here is how I would do it:
How heavy am I?
If I am fairly heavy I would go for the bike with the strongest (widest/biggest) wheel set.
A well set up V-brake is just as good as any disc brake. Up to a point.
A disc brake should work better in the wet/mud.
What bike catches my eye?
What riding am I going to do?
(Consider wheel set and brakes as above).
If I am on the road all the time I don't need a granny ring.
Do I do my own servicing?
How easy will it be to book in/get my bike to/get home from the shop that does the servicing?
(i.e. if it's too difficult you won't do it and they'll have your money for doing nowt!)
Hope this helps a bit.0 -
I always get bike shops to do my service, the 3 years is only labour and value is £45 for 6 services over 3 years. which is good for me as I'm useless at adjusting brakes.
m
I was useless at all bike maintenance until I learned how (it's all got easier and easier as time has passed and I've acquired all of the "right tools" rather than any Heath-Robinson efforts).
Adjusting brakes is something that probably needs to happen a lot more frequently than a 6 monthly service though - and is one of the easiest things to learn. Take a peep on YouTube - or even treat yourself to a maintenance book like the Park Big Blue Book (some of it reads like a Park sales brochure but you don't need a Park screwdriver, a Park hex hey, a Park cloth, a Park overall, etc - just suitable tools).
Even if you don't do it yourself every time - knowing what needs doing means you can decide "I'll do it" or "shop can do it" on a case by case basis.0 -
I always get bike shops to do my service, the 3 years is only labour and value is £45 for 6 services over 3 years. which is good for me as I'm useless at adjusting brakes.
m
I was useless at all bike maintenance until I learned how (it's all got easier and easier as time has passed and I've acquired all of the "right tools" rather than any Heath-Robinson efforts).
Adjusting brakes is something that probably needs to happen a lot more frequently than a 6 monthly service though - and is one of the easiest things to learn. Take a peep on YouTube - or even treat yourself to a maintenance book like the Park Big Blue Book (some of it reads like a Park sales brochure but you don't need a Park screwdriver, a Park hex hey, a Park cloth, a Park overall, etc - just suitable tools).
Even if you don't do it yourself every time - knowing what needs doing means you can decide "I'll do it" or "shop can do it" on a case by case basis.
Agree completely. There is also Zinn and the Art of Road Bike Maintenance - and sister publication for MTBs. Park's website is brilliant - as is Sheldon Browns for older stuff0
