All gear, no idea. Newbie questions.

FergySteve
FergySteve Posts: 82
edited September 2015 in MTB beginners
Hi all,

I just bought myself one of these http://www.specialized.com/gb/gb/bikes/mountain/stumpjumper-ht/stumpjumper-comp-carbon-29#specs online and it has come with a few bits and bobs that I'm not sure what for!

Firstly, it has come with a couple of spare presta valves, not tubes, just the valves with a red rubber collar around the bottom. Is this so I can run my rims tubeless? I haven't seen anything in the spec that says they're tubeless rims?

Secondly, the frame has a number of threaded holes on the underside of the downtube. I assume that these are for running external cabling if you want to? There are some allen bolts in the box of bits that came with the bike. Would I be right in thinking that I just blank the holes off with the bolts as I'm not running any external cables? I imagine not filling the holes would be unadvisable due to water/mud ingress etc?

Sorry for the stupid questions! Didn't really get much in the way of manuals etc with the bike and you can't tell much from the online info that I can find either.

Any advice much appreciated. I can get some photos of the various bits/holes etc if needed. :?
2015 Specialized Tarmac Expert Ultegra
2016 Focus Mares CX Ultegra
2016 Specialized Stumpjumper HT Comp Carbon 29
2012 Boardman Road Race 105
2013 Specialized Hardrock Disc

Comments

  • Get some pictures up and were help you identifying it. Looks like a nice bike BTW!
    'I'll trek two please....!
    To HT or not to HT is the question...
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Spare valves are almost certainly so you can go tubeless.

    Downtube bolts holes could be for cable routing or could be for water bottles (continental as like them and they often won't fit inside an FS frame triangle, or could be a for a crud catcher.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • JBA
    JBA Posts: 2,852
    The threaded holes on the underside of the downtime are for cable/hose clamps.
    Normally the front mech cable is routed under the downtime and BB shell but as your bike is 1x11 this is not needed.
    The rear brake hose used to be run under the downtime as well but I assume your's is internally routed.
    “Life has been unfaithful
    And it all promised so so much”

    Giant Trance 2 27.5 2016 ¦ Sonder Broken Road 2021¦ Giant Revolt Advanced 2 2019 ¦ Giant Toughtroad SLR 1 2019 ¦ Giant Anthem 3 2015 ¦ Specialized Myka Comp FSR 2009
  • Thanks all. Apologies for the late reply, been a busy weekend. I had a look through the box and there were two lots of screws that fitted the holes, one countersink ones that fit the cable guides and some that went flush to the frame, so I have filled the holes with those. :)

    Assuming my rims are compatible with tubes and tubeless, are there any particular benefits in going tubeless? (Other than just not having to buy tubes!)
    2015 Specialized Tarmac Expert Ultegra
    2016 Focus Mares CX Ultegra
    2016 Specialized Stumpjumper HT Comp Carbon 29
    2012 Boardman Road Race 105
    2013 Specialized Hardrock Disc
  • Thanks all. Apologies for the late reply, been a busy weekend. I had a look through the box and there were two lots of screws that fitted the holes, one countersink ones that fit the cable guides and some that went flush to the frame, so I have filled the holes with those. :)

    Assuming my rims are compatible with tubes and tubeless, are there any particular benefits in going tubeless? (Other than just not having to buy tubes!)

    Main upside is not getting punctures due to sealant in the tyre...

    The other is a bit more subjective but I find tyres hook up slightly better tubeless due to being less rubber inside and it deforming slightly better. depending on the tubes you run it can save a bit of weight too(always nice).
  • Tubeless is the way forwards as far as I'm concerned, no trail side puncture repairs to deal with, just carry a tube for just in case you rip a hole in your tire larger than the sealant can cope with, unlikely but an easy fix if you do, just remember to run your hands around the inside of the tire to remove thorns before sticking a tube in after running tubeless for a while.
    Paracyclist
    @Bigmitch_racing
    2010 Specialized Tricross (commuter)
    2014 Whyte T129-S
    2016 Specialized Tarmac Ultegra Di2
    Big Mitch - YouTube
  • Many thanks all. I'll have a look into it :)
    2015 Specialized Tarmac Expert Ultegra
    2016 Focus Mares CX Ultegra
    2016 Specialized Stumpjumper HT Comp Carbon 29
    2012 Boardman Road Race 105
    2013 Specialized Hardrock Disc
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    As a recent(ish) tubeless convert
    1/ Lower weight, and at a critical point for minimising rotational inertia
    2/ No (well far far fewer) punctures - nothing like riding in a group and hearing that tell tale Hiss, then splutter and silence as the sealant does it's job.
    3/ You can run lower pressures without the risk of pinch flatting
    4/ Reduced hysteresis means slightly lower rolling resistance
    5/ Improved traction is a very possible maybe (at the same tyre pressure).

    Obviously it gives you some more scope for tweaking pressures, so reduce the pressure for more grip and traction at only a small increase in resistance without risking that pinch flat.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.