Repair, New Parts Question
Hello. I have ridden my 2014 Cannondale Synapse 105 about 7000 miles since the last time I had it serviced. I’ve been cleaning it, degreasing the chain occasionally, and lubricating certain parts, but I know new parts are sorely needed. Shifting into the last gear is very hard to do, there are one or two small rattles, etc. Now the last time I went to my LBS the prices on components were crazy. I believe I paid about $50 for a 105 chain and $90 for a cassette. I can get these parts for about half of that online. Is it rude to buy these parts online and have my LBS install them?
If you think it is acceptable to buy online, can anyone help me pick the exact cassette/chain combo I need? Also, is there any way to tell whether I need a new crank? It is the original crank set and the bike has about 15,000 miles on it. It is a FSA Gossamer compact double. My current cassette is an 11 – 32 (I think) but I sometimes feel like I need an extra gear at the end (what I mean is I’m in the smallest cog and I want to go faster) Will switching to 11 – 28 or 11 – 25 help with that? Or am I right in thinking I need to change the crank? Thanks all.
If you think it is acceptable to buy online, can anyone help me pick the exact cassette/chain combo I need? Also, is there any way to tell whether I need a new crank? It is the original crank set and the bike has about 15,000 miles on it. It is a FSA Gossamer compact double. My current cassette is an 11 – 32 (I think) but I sometimes feel like I need an extra gear at the end (what I mean is I’m in the smallest cog and I want to go faster) Will switching to 11 – 28 or 11 – 25 help with that? Or am I right in thinking I need to change the crank? Thanks all.
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Hello. I have ridden my 2014 Cannondale Synapse 105 about 7000 miles since the last time I had it serviced. I’ve been cleaning it, degreasing the chain occasionally, and lubricating certain parts, but I know new parts are sorely needed. Shifting into the last gear is very hard to do, there are one or two small rattles, etc. Now the last time I went to my LBS the prices on components were crazy. I believe I paid about $50 for a 105 chain and $90 for a cassette. I can get these parts for about half of that online. Is it rude to buy these parts online and have my LBS install them?
If you think it is acceptable to buy online, can anyone help me pick the exact cassette/chain combo I need? Also, is there any way to tell whether I need a new crank? It is the original crank set and the bike has about 15,000 miles on it. It is a FSA Gossamer compact double. My current cassette is an 11 – 32 (I think) but I sometimes feel like I need an extra gear at the end (what I mean is I’m in the smallest cog and I want to go faster) Will switching to 11 – 28 or 11 – 25 help with that? Or am I right in thinking I need to change the crank? Thanks all.
Misread OPs post.I ride a bike. Doesn't make me green or a tree hugger. I drive a car too.0 -
If you're in the smallest cog and want to go faster then all those cassettes are the same - 11 is the smallest.
There's nothing you can change then except a bigger chainring on the front - but unless you spend all your time descending monster hills then I don't think you need it - 50x11 is enough for a decent speed and if you're regularly spinning out in that then you should be racing professionally.I'm left handed, if that matters.0 -
Those prices for chain and cassette are outrageous. Ask the LBS first if they'd fit the parts you supplied.
If not and it's just the chain and cassette then I'd acquire the tools to do it yourself. Plenty of YouTube vids showing how simple it is.
Difficulty shifting into the last gear (assuming you mean smallest sprocket, fastest gear) may mean you need new cables too. Again a simple DIY job if you take your time.0 -
Shifting into the last gear is very hard to do,
That could be a problem with the high limit screw on the rear deraileur or cable tension,or the lockring could be loose,or the b-screw adjustment is off.I can get these parts for about half of that online. Is it rude to buy these parts online and have my LBS install them?
No, Its more rude for them to refuse you. They may charge you more than the usual rate of the fitting though.Also, is there any way to tell whether I need a new crank? It is the original crank set and the bike has about 15,000
You dont need to replace the whole crankset. You can replace the chainrings if they are worn and they probably are after 15,000 miles. Compact cranks use a 110 BCD (bolt circle diameter). So any 110bcd chainring will fit. (except any Campagnolo type)My current cassette is an 11 – 32 (I think) but I sometimes feel like I need an extra gear at the end (what I mean is I’m in the smallest cog and I want to go faster) Will switching to 11 – 28 or 11 – 25 help with that? Or am I right in thinking I need to change the crank? Thanks all.
The fastest gear combo you have is 50 - 11t. So changing the other cogs sizes will not make a difference. 11t is the smallest cog you can buy with a cassette.
You could change the front chain rings to a 52/36t combo which will give you a higher top speed. But you will loose some of the easiest climbing gears by 2 teeth. This may or may not be a problem to you.
It's advised not to use a 52t outer ring with a 34t inner ring because the tooth gap is too large and front shifting will suffer.0 -
Thank you for all the replies.
It sounds like its not a great idea to buy the parts on my own. I do have another bike shop or two in town, but this one is closer and I have had work done here before and the mechanic really impressed me with his knowledge. The bike turned out great, too. I just hate paying ridiculous prices. Something tells me this visit will cost over $350.
For those talking about the compact vs standard, let me explain a little bit why I think I may need to change to a standard crank. I consider myself a strong rider who weighs 200lbs and rides a lot. Close to 10k miles a year. I live in South Jersey and it's flat out here. The steepest climbs are the bridges over the bay to the beach. When I am descending these bridges (and other small hills) I am always in the highest gear and occasionally wish I had another gear to shift into. When ascending, I generally don't have a problem. I usually dont even use the small chainring because it feels silly to me.
Thanks again for any input.0 -
Sounds like you like that particular bike shop / mechanic, so why not chat to them about what you think needs doing and mention that you're aware of the prices of components bought online? They may be less inclined to rip you off then.
Also might be worth asking if they'd let you watch what they do; some of the stuff is childishly simple to do yourself.
Regarding your top gear, what kind of speed are you doing when you feel like you could use an extra cog? And what kind of cadence? My tallest gear is 50 x 12 and I've never been close to spinning out in that.0 -
Sounds like you like that particular bike shop / mechanic, so why not chat to them about what you think needs doing and mention that you're aware of the prices of components bought online? They may be less inclined to rip you off then.
Also might be worth asking if they'd let you watch what they do; some of the stuff is childishly simple to do yourself.
Regarding your top gear, what kind of speed are you doing when you feel like you could use an extra cog? And what kind of cadence? My tallest gear is 50 x 12 and I've never been close to spinning out in that.
Unfortunately, I don't have a bike computer so I am unsure of my cadence. My speed is around 35mph. My tallest gear is 50 x 11.0 -
Sounds like you like that particular bike shop / mechanic, so why not chat to them about what you think needs doing and mention that you're aware of the prices of components bought online? They may be less inclined to rip you off then.
Also might be worth asking if they'd let you watch what they do; some of the stuff is childishly simple to do yourself.
Regarding your top gear, what kind of speed are you doing when you feel like you could use an extra cog? And what kind of cadence? My tallest gear is 50 x 12 and I've never been close to spinning out in that.
Unfortunately, I don't have a bike computer so I am unsure of my cadence. My speed is around 35mph. My tallest gear is 50 x 11.
sounds like you need to learn to spin more - should be able to hit much higher speeds than that in 50 x 110 -
My current cassette is an 11 – 32 (I think) but I sometimes feel like I need an extra gear at the end (what I mean is I’m in the smallest cog and I want to go faster) Will switching to 11 – 28 or 11 – 25 help with that? Or am I right in thinking I need to change the crank? Thanks all.
If 50x11 is not enough for you, then you need a pro contract and a mechanic will take care of the gears,0 -
Sounds like you like that particular bike shop / mechanic, so why not chat to them about what you think needs doing and mention that you're aware of the prices of components bought online? They may be less inclined to rip you off then.
Also might be worth asking if they'd let you watch what they do; some of the stuff is childishly simple to do yourself.
Regarding your top gear, what kind of speed are you doing when you feel like you could use an extra cog? And what kind of cadence? My tallest gear is 50 x 12 and I've never been close to spinning out in that.
Unfortunately, I don't have a bike computer so I am unsure of my cadence. My speed is around 35mph. My tallest gear is 50 x 11.
You need to up your cadence then if your top speed in the 50/11 is only 35mph.I ride a bike. Doesn't make me green or a tree hugger. I drive a car too.0 -
To be fair, if you live somewhere pretty flat then there is little need for a compact chainset and a double (eg 53/39) might be worth a look. However your main issue is servicing the bike and I'd be surprised if you need new rings after only 15000 miles - assuming you have changed the chain when it has become worn.
Talk to the shop you trust - a new chain, cassette and cable are likely the only parts necessary, along with a proper clean/servicing. I'd probably suggest an 11-25 cassette would be adequate for you based on the terrain you mention.FFS! Harden up and grow a pair
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You could also consider a 52/36T crankset.0
