Boardman ht comp 650b and an unfit rider.. Working on both.

Hi folks, long time reader, first time poster. (From memory)
Just getting back into riding after an almost 2 year break.. The scales were sat at the wrong side of 17.5 stone again, and cycling really is the only exercise I enjoy.
Just picked up a 16 inch boardman hard tail from the trained chimps at halfords (though they were dead set on me needing an 18.. Test ride was extremely unsettled on an 18) but don't plan on ever taking it back there, already picked which lbs I will most likely be giving further monies too.
Couple of the regular type of questions really, couldn't find results specific to my particular bike, so sorry if the information is buried within other threads.
Firstly the suntour raidons.. They're by far the nicest forks I've ever had on a bike, but I get that really isn't saying much compared to other forks out there. My riding is mostly canal paths and the occasional single track through the local woods, so have no issues with the forks at the minute, but intend to start doing the likes of the Malvern hills and Cannock chase (FTD) as my fitness levels and weight increase and decrease respectively. At what point are the forks likely to start really ruining my experience and what are the usually recommended upgrades when it comes to 120-130mm travel for xc style riding?
When it comes to pedals I've always used dmr previously (easily sourced from my old LBS) but always found that they got a bit creaky quite quickly.. I've seen nukeproof recommended round the forums and was wondering if they are as 'fit and forget' as the name would suggest?
Finally we come to the brakes.. My first hydraulics in the form of avid DB1's.. Are these really any good or should I be looking to find a set of deore's or something similar as an upgrade, and what's the honest difference in better (more expensive) systems?
Sorry for the text mountain and thanks for any/all help
Just getting back into riding after an almost 2 year break.. The scales were sat at the wrong side of 17.5 stone again, and cycling really is the only exercise I enjoy.
Just picked up a 16 inch boardman hard tail from the trained chimps at halfords (though they were dead set on me needing an 18.. Test ride was extremely unsettled on an 18) but don't plan on ever taking it back there, already picked which lbs I will most likely be giving further monies too.
Couple of the regular type of questions really, couldn't find results specific to my particular bike, so sorry if the information is buried within other threads.
Firstly the suntour raidons.. They're by far the nicest forks I've ever had on a bike, but I get that really isn't saying much compared to other forks out there. My riding is mostly canal paths and the occasional single track through the local woods, so have no issues with the forks at the minute, but intend to start doing the likes of the Malvern hills and Cannock chase (FTD) as my fitness levels and weight increase and decrease respectively. At what point are the forks likely to start really ruining my experience and what are the usually recommended upgrades when it comes to 120-130mm travel for xc style riding?
When it comes to pedals I've always used dmr previously (easily sourced from my old LBS) but always found that they got a bit creaky quite quickly.. I've seen nukeproof recommended round the forums and was wondering if they are as 'fit and forget' as the name would suggest?
Finally we come to the brakes.. My first hydraulics in the form of avid DB1's.. Are these really any good or should I be looking to find a set of deore's or something similar as an upgrade, and what's the honest difference in better (more expensive) systems?
Sorry for the text mountain and thanks for any/all help

0
Posts
As for pedals, various offerings from nukeproof and superstar etc are a good place to start.
I dont have much experience with the db1's but the deores are a solid piece of kit.
The DB1's are Avids attempt to shake off the bad rep of the older brakes, reports so far are positive so I'd stick with them for now.
Put bluntly, on the 18 frame, when stood over the frame I had ZERO clearance.. I was squashing my gentlemans area and extremely uncomfortable. The guy in halfords was trying to convince me to size up to a 19 inch frame at one point, so i suspect he was just a clueless idiot.
The 16 frame felt instantly more comfortable from the first second of riding, feels more planted in the corners, feels like I'm riding the bike as opposed to just sitting atop it. Since I plan on riding it off-road the 18 didn't seem like a good idea at all.. Had my intentions been to ride road only then the 18 may have made sense, but the bike wouldn't of.
I used to use a 16" and now have an 18" (different bikes but the new frame has an effective top tube length 25mm longer than the old) and it fits me better and I feel more confident riding it.
18"+circa 12.5" BB height less circa 2" above the TT CL to top of seat tube means an inside leg of 28" would be dangling the CJ's on the tube, pretty normal.
The main concern was just that I didn't feel like I was riding the 18 as opposed to just being on it... These bikes don't ever allow the saddle to sit on the top tube, the frame is curved below the saddle so that the saddle sits a few inches above the frame as a bare minimum, which left me feeling ridiculously high in the air with a high centre of gravity. Hoping photo bucket works so I can add a couple of pics. First being my riding saddle height, second being the minimum. Again this is on a 16.
Again, I know that shouldn't be a real deciding factor (should it?) but the 16 inch frame really doesn't feel too small.. I feel a little too far forwards stood up on steep climbs, but that could just be because I haven't rode in so long, it's getting less each ride. But for stability and comfort everywhere else, it's really on point. I don't feel at all squashed into the bike when I'm in the saddle or stood up on anything except the steepest uphills.
Feeling too far forwards ona steep climb suggest the frame is too short (small) height is pretty irrelevant as you have a massive adjustment in the seatpost, it's the length that matters.
Could this be a side effect of frame length?
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Parktools
That's my current working theory, lol
Do think I need to do something about fork pressures though.. They seem really stiff still. Not that I've given them too much reason to loosen up over the first 200 or so miles
I'm aware of the suggestion that knees should be a little off straight at full extension and that is where I had it sat in the first of two posted pictures.
Handbuilt Steel 29er https://goo.gl/RYSbaa
Carbon Stumpjumper https://goo.gl/xJNFcv
Parkwood:http://goo.gl/Gf8xkL
Ribble Gran Fondo https://goo.gl/ZpTFXz
Triban:http://goo.gl/v63FBB
It's difficult for us to tell for sure without actually having pictures of the OP sitting on the bike but its sounding to me like he just doesn't feel confident sitting upright on the bike and is sizing everything down
Handbuilt Steel 29er https://goo.gl/RYSbaa
Carbon Stumpjumper https://goo.gl/xJNFcv
Parkwood:http://goo.gl/Gf8xkL
Ribble Gran Fondo https://goo.gl/ZpTFXz
Triban:http://goo.gl/v63FBB
Given the stack of spacers underneath my stem, there's room to lower the bars some, which to my thinking would extend my reach a little when stood up which should counteract the bars feeling too close perhaps?
While the frame size may not be the 'Perfect fit' I went the whole ride with no trouble from my dud knees (thanks grandad) no pull on my right shoulder (used it instead of my face to hit a tree a couple years back) and no worries from my lower back (drinking incident and a whole other story). Oh and no pain in the rear end either