Di2 setup help
ashleydwsmith
Posts: 693
I have recently upgraded to ultegra di2. Now I thought this was going to be a setup and leave kinda thing but I find myself having to adjust it more than mechanical. Took it out for a very quick spin today to find a 'springy' noise when I put the power down. It can almost be likened to a bike that isn't looked after when the drivetrain is all rusted and shot but mine isn't has anyone got any advice or tips? Cheers ash
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Let's assume that:I have recently upgraded to ultegra di2. Now I thought this was going to be a setup and leave kinda thing but I find myself having to adjust it more than mechanical. Took it out for a very quick spin today to find a 'springy' noise when I put the power down. It can almost be likened to a bike that isn't looked after when the drivetrain is all rusted and shot but mine isn't has anyone got any advice or tips? Cheers ash
Your chain is the right length and is not worn past 0.75%
Your cassette is not worn
You've checked (or had someone check) hanger alignment
You've threaded the chain through the RD properly (i.e. the right side of the reinforcing pin in the cage)
Your limit screws are set correctly front and rear
Your FD cage has been trimmed parallel with the chain using the trim adjustment screw
Your FD cage is the right height above the big ring (about 1.5mm above the tallest tooth on the large chainring)
Your FD and RD are torqued properly
Your cassette is torqued properly onto the freehub, your freehub is torqued properly onto the hub, and your rear hub preload adjusters are set correctly so there's no side-to-side movement of the axle
Then you need to look at trim adjustment. Shift to the fourth cog up from your smallest cog at the rear, with the chain on the big ring in front. Press the button on the front junction box until you get a solid red light. The front RH shifter now adjusts rear trim. Press the upshift button (as though changing to a harder gear) while spinning the cranks, until the chain runs silently. Now press the downshift button (as though changing to an easier gear), again while turning the cranks, until the chain is noisy (because it's rubbing on the fifth cog). Now press the upshift button *four times*. Hold down the button on the front junction box until the light gors out (and no longer, or you'll go into crash recovery mode).
Now shift to the biggest cog at the back. Go back into trim adjustment mode on the front junction box. Use the LH shifter to adjust the front derailleur until you have about 0.5mm of clearance between the FD cage and the chain to the inside. Exit trim adjustment mode as above.
Note for clarity: I am using "upshift" to mean changing to a smaller cog, and "downshift" to mean changing to a larger cog. This accords with how we talk about car gearboxes, for instance, but in cycling we also talk about "up" the cassette and "down" the cassette with the opposite intention. Whatever. Just make sure you understand what the trim function does and you'll be golden.0 -
You need to be more specific. Where is the noise coming from ?
Random guess would be limits screws are not set right.0 -
All the above has been done, new groupo so no chain wear. New mech hanger. So hopefully not bent. It almost sounds like a rusty old bso drivetrain0
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Check the b-screw adjustment. On my Di2 setup i found i needed to wind it in quite alot to get a fully quiet drivetrain.
Make sure the low limit screw on the RD is not touching the stop. It should be as close as posible but not touching.
Also check
The mech hanger is tight on the frame
And the rear deraileur is tight on the hanger
And the wheel is seated properly
and check that the chain pin (if its a shimano chain) is not protruding too much out of the link.0 -
With the low limit screw is that in gear 1?0
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Yes. The lowest gear. The cog with the most number of teeth.0
