Single Front Chainring
skyblueamateur
Posts: 1,498
I'm currently running Sora 9 speed but looking at potentially going for a single chainring on the front. At my last race a few riders recommended these - http://www.superstarcomponents.com/en/cyclocross-io-chainring-narrow-wide-style.htm
A few questions:
What do I need to do to convert? Will I need a new rear derailleur? chain guard?
What ratio's would you look at for racing?
Thanks
A few questions:
What do I need to do to convert? Will I need a new rear derailleur? chain guard?
What ratio's would you look at for racing?
Thanks
0
Comments
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I'm currently running Sora 9 speed but looking at potentially going for a single chainring on the front. At my last race a few riders recommended these - http://www.superstarcomponents.com/en/cyclocross-io-chainring-narrow-wide-style.htm
A few questions:
What do I need to do to convert? Will I need a new rear derailleur? chain guard?
What ratio's would you look at for racing?
Thanks
Assuming your chainset is 110 BCD then just this plus a set of single ring bolts. It seems they are only available as 38T 110 BCD so you don't have a choice. You could go for one of the other brands (absolute black, raceface, woolfstooth) but they are more expensive.
The only other suggestions are to shorten your chain to match the ring, and set your derailleur to the stiffer setting, if you have not already. And if you can even do that with Sora - sorry, not familiar with that groupset. No need for a guard, that's why you're going narrow wide.
I use 38T for racing, and it is very universal, combined with a 11-28 cassette that's all you need for regular cross. 3PX needs something perhaps a bit more specialized.0 -
I am running a 38t superstar ring with sora shifters and a mtb XT rear mech, works brilliantly and allows large cassettes to be used (up to 36t if needed) if you want to do other riding other than racing. I am currently racing on a 12-30 cassette and its just about right for me. I'm actually using mtb cranks with a 104bcd so lots more chainring sizes are an option.
Sora mech would work although the spring tension and durability isn't as good as the mtb stuff. No chain guard or anything needed.
In short, it will work just fine. If you choose to put an mtb mech on then the world is your lobster, gear ratio wise....
my build here for reference...
viewtopic.php?f=40044&t=130261340 -
Many thanks for your replies. They're a great help.
Would there be any disadvantage to moving to an XT Shadow rear derailleur?0 -
Many thanks for your replies. They're a great help.
Would there be any disadvantage to moving to an XT Shadow rear derailleur?
Shadow clutch mech would be extra secure, would be a good choice. I always though Shimano road shifters and MTB rear deraileurs weren't compatible, or is this only 11 speed?0 -
I'm currently running Sora 9 speed but looking at potentially going for a single chainring on the front. At my last race a few riders recommended these - http://www.superstarcomponents.com/en/cyclocross-io-chainring-narrow-wide-style.htm
A few questions:
What do I need to do to convert? Will I need a new rear derailleur? chain guard?
What ratio's would you look at for racing?
Thanks
Assuming your chainset is 110 BCD then just this plus a set of single ring bolts. It seems they are only available as 38T 110 BCD so you don't have a choice. You could go for one of the other brands (absolute black, raceface, woolfstooth) but they are more expensive.
The only other suggestions are to shorten your chain to match the ring, and set your derailleur to the stiffer setting, if you have not already. And if you can even do that with Sora - sorry, not familiar with that groupset. No need for a guard, that's why you're going narrow wide.
I use 38T for racing, and it is very universal, combined with a 11-28 cassette that's all you need for regular cross. 3PX needs something perhaps a bit more specialized.
I also run 38T front (SRAM CX1) with 11-28 rear (10 speed 2011 force rear mech) and I think its great for just messing about on mixed on/off road too.0 -
Shimano road/MTB gears are only compatible up to 9 speed - they changed the actuation pull ratios for 10 speed MTB. A clutch mech eliminates the need for a chain keeper.Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..0
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I'm currently running Sora 9 speed but looking at potentially going for a single chainring on the front. At my last race a few riders recommended these - http://www.superstarcomponents.com/en/cyclocross-io-chainring-narrow-wide-style.htm
A few questions:
What do I need to do to convert? Will I need a new rear derailleur? chain guard?
What ratio's would you look at for racing?
Thanks
Assuming your chainset is 110 BCD then just this plus a set of single ring bolts. It seems they are only available as 38T 110 BCD so you don't have a choice. You could go for one of the other brands (absolute black, raceface, woolfstooth) but they are more expensive.
The only other suggestions are to shorten your chain to match the ring, and set your derailleur to the stiffer setting, if you have not already. And if you can even do that with Sora - sorry, not familiar with that groupset. No need for a guard, that's why you're going narrow wide.
I use 38T for racing, and it is very universal, combined with a 11-28 cassette that's all you need for regular cross. 3PX needs something perhaps a bit more specialized.
I also run 38T front (SRAM CX1) with 11-28 rear (10 speed 2011 force rear mech) and I think its great for just messing about on mixed on/off road too.
Yep, I've done all sorts on this drivetrain, including a 100 mile road sportive and a club 10. I spin out around 28mph so it's really not a big limitation.0 -
Do you chaps who run single front rings lock you left shifter at all? or do you just leave it without the cable and rely on the return spring?0
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Just run without a cable. I've looked into the possibility of putting a small bolt or something in to jam the mechanism but it doesn't seem possible. It could maybe be done using a short length of cable and some kind of cable clamp such as found on some brakes but I haven't bothered looking into it further as In practice the lever movement is never an issue anyway.0
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Have just done exactly this conversion - didn't even need single ring bolts running the ring on the inside of the chainset. Impressed with it on a bumpy singletrack ride yesterday, no chain retention issues.
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For anyone who's on SRAM it's quite easy to remove the lever and internal gubbins altogether (and to put them back later if you change your mind).Do you chaps who run single front rings lock you left shifter at all? or do you just leave it without the cable and rely on the return spring?Pannier, 120rpm.0 -
Do people running a single ring use any kind of chain catcher? Any ideas which bolts I'll need to get to install one of the superstar components chainrings on to a Shimano 105 5700 110 bcd chainset?0
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No chain catcher required with my setup (SRAM MTB clutch mech), and I don't think the guys running Shimano mechs with the stiffer spring setting need them either. That's one of the advantages, less gubbins to attract mud.[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19683698#p19683698]JustinLeeAtkinson[/url] wrote:Do people running a single ring use any kind of chain catcher? Any ideas which bolts I'll need to get to install one of the superstar components chainrings on to a Shimano 105 5700 110 bcd chainset?
I chopped the lugs off an old dead chainring and used the same bolts. Shorter bolts and no lugs is obviously fractionally lighter though...
Have a look at your chainline in the gears you're most likely to use, and remember you have the option to install on either the inside or outside of the chainring spider (and also the ability to change it later) .Pannier, 120rpm.0 -
Cheers, I don't know whether a 105 rear mech has a stiffer spring setting, I don't recall hearing about that before. Anyone know?0
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[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19683779#p19683779]JustinLeeAtkinson[/url] wrote:Cheers, I don't know whether a 105 rear mech has a stiffer spring setting, I don't recall hearing about that before. Anyone know?
Yep, standard Shimano two hole design. Shipped as lower tension, so if you haven't fiddled with it, it will still be lower tension.0 -
Ok cheers, It may be coming back to me now. I'll have a look tonight when I'm building up the new crosser.0
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[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19683820#p19683820]JustinLeeAtkinson[/url] wrote:Ok cheers, It may be coming back to me now. I'll have a look tonight when I'm building up the new crosser.
Good guide to changing it here;
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailleur-overhaul0 -
I changed to 1x10 on my MTB with a Superstar 36T I/O ring - I don't have a chain guide and the derailleur clutch is always off, but I've had no problem at all with dropping the chain. There's definitely something with these narrow/wide chainrings.Specialized Roubaix Elite 2015
XM-057 rigid 29er0 -
Please to report that I have now received, fitted and ridden on the superstar components 38 tooth cross chainring and it's great. Only done two rides, but have ridden down a particularly bumpy river bank with the chain clanging all over the place, but it did not drop. I decided I wouldn't go through the faff of tightening the rear mech spring, and it looks like I wont need to.0
