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Help my xctV2 suntour forks wont drop down? Im new to this

bachmann21bachmann21 Posts: 7
edited August 2015 in MTB workshop & tech
So i see the lockout to rotate but when i rotate it nothing happens? How many times should the turn go round?


  • Antm81Antm81 Posts: 1,406
    In what way won't they go down? Turning the lockout won't cause any visual changes, it should however stop the forks compressing or make it harder.
  • Like i could put my whole weight on handlebars and push down and they wont go down seems like they are locked but i can turn the right one but only half a turn around?
  • Antm81Antm81 Posts: 1,406
    Are they new or have you had them a while? The lockout lever should only move a maximum of half a turn or so
  • I think the bike is year and half old so they must be stuck then ? How can i get them to go down if not i aint fussed just the principal lol all help appreciated :)
  • Antm81Antm81 Posts: 1,406
    I'd look at stripping the lowers off giving them a clean and re grease, seems to be fairly common for them to seize.

    This video should hopefully explain how to remove the lowers, although I've not watched it myself.
  • It looks like the preloader cap is stuck and wont turn at all
  • Antm81Antm81 Posts: 1,406
    Even with the full amount of preload is still expect them to move. I had a pair of XCMs that the preload got stuck on, gently turning it with a pair of pliers freed the knob.
  • Whats under the cap i know some have allen key or hex key bolt? Tbh £230 for a brand new specialized is good plus im a road user so suspension dosent bother me but its the principal lol any advice on what to do im not very confident fixing myselflr
  • Antm81Antm81 Posts: 1,406
    The springs under the cap, if what your saying about the preload is what I imagine then the cap doesn't need removing just use the pliers to turn the dial itself, I found that once it gets to its maximum it goes slightly past and sticks. Just needs the slight increase in force from the pliers to turn it back then it should work by hand again.

    The main problem it seems you have though is that the lowers have dirt/water inside, removing them and cleaning and regreasing should sort it if there is. It's not a huge job though.
  • How would i remove water and grease??
  • Antm81Antm81 Posts: 1,406
    Should be in that video I linked to, essentially it's partially undo the bolts on the bottom of the forks, I expect then you will need to give the bolts a good tap like on other forks I've stripped to release the spring and damper shafts (usually needs a good bit of force), then fully undo and the lowers should be free to be pulled down till coming off the end of the stanchions.
  • Antm81Antm81 Posts: 1,406
    Ok, watched a good chunk of the video, the bolts for the lowers look then can just be removed without the need for tapping them etc. I'd skip the part where he takes the top caps etc off and just clean the inside of the lowers/seals and stanchions, the grease the relevant parts and reassemble. Just be careful with the lowers as they may be stuck initially, you don't want to be hitting the fork bridge that holds both sides of the lowers together.
  • larkimlarkim Posts: 2,474
    Water can get trapped badly in those. I found just loosening the bolts at the foot of the lowers sometimes allowed excess water to drain out, making a difference. Or storing the bike upside down overnight allows the water to run out the opposite way through the seals.

    On my son's bike, I did manage to get the lockout knob to be positioned in such a way that that it was permanently locked - prising off the cap and re-lining things up inside worked to free it up if none of the cleaning / re-greasing suggestions work.
    2015 Canyon Nerve AL 6.0 (son #1's)
    2011 Specialized Hardrock Sport Disc (son #4s)
    2013 Decathlon Triban 3 (red) (mine)
    2019 Hoy Bonaly 26" Disc (son #2s)
    2018 Voodoo Bizango (mine)
    2018 Voodoo Maji (wife's)
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