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What is considered normal after the first 1000 miles?

avalanche_expertavalanche_expert Posts: 177
edited August 2015 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi chaps, just a quick question regarding my bikes first 1000 miles. I understand that riding style and conditions come into play with wear and tear. After the first 1000 miles I've replaced the chain, both tyres and the rear wheel has been trued and re packed. I've adjusted the rear derailleur cable tension once or twice and tonight I have had to re set the high and low limit screws as for some reason the limits ended up being way off.

I accept the wear out items like tyres and chains needing replacement, but everything I've read on gear adjustments says that the limit screws once set shouldn't need to be touched again. The rear mech hasn't been hit or bent so I'm unsure as to why I had to reset both limits when they've been fine up until today?

I have got it all running properly, but just a bit unsure about the limits going off on the rear mech, can I just put it down to fair usage and not suspect a problem? Like I say it's not been hit or bent, just ridden a lot in a short space of time since new.

Thanks for any responses!


  • I should probably add, it's a Deore XT Shadow Plus rear mech.
  • cubedeancubedean Posts: 670
    What bike is it?
  • The RookieThe Rookie Posts: 27,811
    Maybe you changed something when you re packed the wheel bearings moving the cassette sideways.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • What bike is it?

    GT Avalanche Expert hard tail. With Deore XT rear mech.
  • Maybe you changed something when you re packed the wheel bearings moving the cassette sideways.

    That may well be a possibility actually! Hadn't thought of that.
  • I actually think the free hub is wearing on closer inspection. There is a bit of noise which sounds like a lack of grease when the wheel is rotating, the axle has been repacked I know it's not that. There is a very small amount of play on the cassette too.

    Am I right in thinking that the GT All terra free hubs are not easy to source replacements for? Should this be classed as fair wear and tear, or should it be a warranty claim? The bike is 3 months old, but is ridden a lot.
  • cooldadcooldad Posts: 32,599
    Cassettes always have a bit of play, and the freehub can be greased.
    I don't do smileys.

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  • Cassettes always have a bit of play, and the freehub can be greased.

    LBS said that my free hub is non serviceable as it's sealed. It can only be completely replaced when worn out?
  • supersonicsupersonic Posts: 82,708 Lives Here
    Possibly - I think they are rebranded Formula hubs, and they aren't that easy to get spares for. Keep riding it until it slips. Sometimes they go on for ever lol.
  • I actually think the LBS have been talking rubbish. They told me that the free hub is wearing after me taking the wheel back into them complaining that the hub they re packed doesn't seem to be greased enough and hence making a noise.

    I'm just going to buy a tool set with includes cone spanners and cassette tools etc... Any more re packing jobs I'll be doing myself. Once I've inspected the hub myself, if it's still noisy then I'll have a better idea what's going on. I really do have a feeling they haven't put enough grease in when they have had the axle out.

    I have never worked on bikes before, even though they are simple a lack of experience is frustrating. Only one way to learn...
  • loudogloudog Posts: 136
    Welcome to the world of Tinkering! Passing
    Say goodbye to family life.
    Say hello to your newer, obsessive and often frustrating one! :oD
    It matters not, win or lose, it's how you ride the bike
  • mattyfezmattyfez Posts: 638
    I managed to repack my rear bearings, I should have probably used new ball bearings, but it's running much smoother now, don't be shy with the grease, put a decent layer on, sit the balls in and put a good layer of greace on top.

    The tricky bit is how much to screw the cups /cones in. One thing to watch out for is dropping the ball bearings onto the hub chassis, they'll be covered in gunk so can be a pain to try and fish them back out again.
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