Bigger gears
djwc
Posts: 39
I've fairly recently bought a new bike, and there are a few climbs (generally very steep ones) that keep stumping me, and I have that sinking feeling when I have to get off and walk up the last bit!
I have ultegra gears, with a Shimano CS-5800-11 11-28 on the back. I was wondering if it was possible to purchase solely a 30 or 32 tooth gear, and take my smallest one off or would I have to buy a whole rear set?
I have ultegra gears, with a Shimano CS-5800-11 11-28 on the back. I was wondering if it was possible to purchase solely a 30 or 32 tooth gear, and take my smallest one off or would I have to buy a whole rear set?
0
Comments
-
I would think you would need to buy a complete new cassette. I recently has the same issue and changed my Shimano Ultegra 11-28 cassette for the same model's 12-30 cassette. It was only about £30, but it also meant I had to buy a new rear derailleur with a medium cage to replace the one I had which was a short cage rear derailleur. But it was worth it just to have that lower gear for steep climbs.0
-
You will need the CS-5800 11sp 11-32t cassette, if your rear derailleur is a GS model you just need the cassette.
http://productinfo.shimano.com/#/spec/2.0/ROAD/Rear%20Derailleur0 -
It is possible to undo and separate the individual sprokets in a Shimano cassette. I recently did it for a 9s 12-27.
I wanted a 30t sprocket. Getting rid of the 14, I included a 30 and ended up with: 12-13-15-17-19-21-24-27-30.
The 30 sprocket was purchased from Highpath Engineering. I regularly customise my cassettes to get my
desired ratio.0 -
My standard answer for this question used to be don't buy anything new just keep working at it, however I have now changed my mind, a little. First of all I'd suggest working on your pacing, are you going too hard at the bottom of the climb? If so, back off, it'll work wonders. Lets say the climb is 1 mile long, if you use strava create yourself 2 PRIVATE segments, first 0.5 and second 0.5 miles, then look at your pacing that way.
If you still have to walk then go for the cassette, if you still have to walk the was it really worth it?
Trainer Road Blog: https://hitthesweetspot.home.blog/
Cycling blog: https://harderfasterlonger.wordpress.com/
Blog: https://supermurphtt2015.wordpress.com/
TCTP: https://supermurph.wordpress.com/0 -
I had the same problem when I started out. Where I live it is very hilly (and they are steep hills) but I already had 34-32 as my lowest gear, I was considering getting a triple ring on the front.
I will make the point thought - some will disagree - that if you are grinding to a halt on a hill with 34-28, going to 34-32 won't mean you can get up the hill without stopping or walking, it will just mean you will go slower before you have to stop.
Don't walk the rest of the way up though, get off and catch your breath then get back on your bike and cycle it up, you'll feel much better for it. Then next time when you get to the hill, don't think you'll make it this time and then be disappointed, just try to get 20 yards further than the last time.0 -
How steep are we talking here? And how hard are you digging in!?Trainer Road Blog: https://hitthesweetspot.home.blog/
Cycling blog: https://harderfasterlonger.wordpress.com/
Blog: https://supermurphtt2015.wordpress.com/
TCTP: https://supermurph.wordpress.com/0 -
I don't agree with the second paragraph above. If you grind to a halt on a steep section with a 28 sprocket, a 30 or 32 should enable you to keep turning the pedals.I had the same problem when I started out. Where I live it is very hilly (and they are steep hills) but I already had 34-32 as my lowest gear, I was considering getting a triple ring on the front.
I will make the point thought - some will disagree - that if you are grinding to a halt on a hill with 34-28, going to 34-32 won't mean you can get up the hill without stopping or walking, it will just mean you will go slower before you have to stop.
Don't walk the rest of the way up though, get off and catch your breath then get back on your bike and cycle it up, you'll feel much better for it. Then next time when you get to the hill, don't think you'll make it this time and then be disappointed, just try to get 20 yards further than the last time.
I do agree with the 3rd paragraph about stopping and catching your breath if necessary.0 -
The hill in question is Ditchling Beacon. At present I weigh too much for the power I have, and at a couple of points the gradient kicks up above 20%. I've attempted it a few times, and the getting off part is fine but clipping in on a steepish hill I find bloody hard, and with cars coming up that hill I do get a little worried that if I wobble while trying to clip in I might get hit!0
-
Ahh, well Ditchling Beacon is more than just a small hill, if I'm not mistaken it made it into the 100 (or another 100) greatest climbs book?
Strava segment: https://www.strava.com/segments/770191
Assuming the elevation profile is correct, it has some very steep parts but then a few places where it flattens out and drops down again slightly. My advice would be to try stick with your current gearing, get to the first of the flat bits and stop for a bit to get your breath back and then go again to the next flat bit. Then, in future attempts, work towards only stopping once, at the second flat bit, and then work on doing the whole thing.
You also haven't mentioned what chainrings you are using. If you're on 50/34 then stick with it, if higher (52/36, 53/39) then you might want to look at dropping down to a 50/34. That won't be cheap, but you can keep the bigger chain rings and see it as a goal to get back onto those bigger chainrings.0 -
I presume that you have SPD-SLs road pedals. As they are one-sided they will be hard to clip into on a steep slope. You should try mountain bike SPDs which are double-sided and much easier to clip back in. I have them on my 2 road bikes and hybrid. You would also need SPD shoes, but worth the investment as they are also easier to walk in.The hill in question is Ditchling Beacon. At present I weigh too much for the power I have, and at a couple of points the gradient kicks up above 20%. I've attempted it a few times, and the getting off part is fine but clipping in on a steepish hill I find bloody hard, and with cars coming up that hill I do get a little worried that if I wobble while trying to clip in I might get hit!0 -
You mean lower gears? Bigger gears would be smaller sprockets
You can't buy the individual sprockets. You would have to get the full 11-32 cassette.
Quite likely you have a short cage dérailleur too you would need to change that for a medium cage to take the 32T cassette.
In addition you will need a new chain because your existing one will likely be too short.
That said; I think it's worthwhile doing. Spin to win 0 -
As for if you need them. Well it depends on the rider entirely even if you have the power to weight ratio eg there are some climbs which I can get up without stopping but it means my cadence drops to about 70, but I prefer more like 95-100 so slightly lower gears wouldn't mean I'm going any slower because I'm pedalling in my preferred cadence and probably putting out more power to boot.
I currently have 12-30 (10 speed) but I could certainly make use of 320 -
Don't wish to appear pedantic but isn't there a sticky covering this topic at the top of the page.0
