Life time of a Dura-Ace 10spd cassette
What is the expected mileage you can expect from the 10 speed dura-ace cassette? I have done 3K miles with one and there are a few teeth that have a shark fin profile but not many. Could these just be shaped that way for shifting purposes? 3k miles just doesn't feel like long enough to be needing a new cassette especially as I look after the chain, check the length with a checker and change it when necessary.
I'm getting terrible shifting at the moment. I have tried re-indexing the rear mech but it has only made it worse. It is always jumping sprockets and I can hear it wanting so shift up on many others. Turning the barrel adjuster does not solve anything it just changes the gear that gets jumped.
Maybe recabling will help.
I'm getting terrible shifting at the moment. I have tried re-indexing the rear mech but it has only made it worse. It is always jumping sprockets and I can hear it wanting so shift up on many others. Turning the barrel adjuster does not solve anything it just changes the gear that gets jumped.
Maybe recabling will help.
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Shimano cassettes have quite a lot of ramps and odd tooth profiles for shifting. A cassette should last 10-15k if the chain is replaced in good time. If you don't change the chain in time, a new one will skip. Then you need a new cassette (or stick the old chain back on and run both into the ground).
As for the crappy shifting at the moment - check for fraying cables in the shifter itself. A known shimano niggle.
If its not that, then god knows.0 -
The largest 4 cogs are made of titanium so are going to wear faster than the rest which are made from steel.0
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The symptoms you describe sound more like a cable issue or possibly a bent derailleur hanger.
The point about the Ti sprockets wearing faster is true though; the price you pay in order to shave off a few grams...0 -
could be worn jockey wheel as well but i'd check the hanger/mech is straight first.
worn chain won't help shifting so check that also0 -
A simple potential fix is to replace the rear outer loop and the inner if you don't feel like going the whole hog with the cables.0
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It's all good advice
I think I can rule out the chain as being the problem because I have only done 1000 miles on it and it has not stretched enough yet. Plus I am currently very meticulous about cleaning and lubricating the chain. I soak in meths followed by dipping in hot parafin wax and it comes clean inside and out.
Jockey wheels were new about a year ago. There might be a slight contribution by these as I got some Tacx ceramic ones to replace the Ultegra ones on the mech. As I understand, one of the Shimano wheels uses a bushing rather than bearings so that there is some lateral play that aids shifting. Both the Tacx wheels use bearings and there is no play. To be fair I don't think this is the problem though because it has only just started and I have had the Tacx wheels for a year.
Could be cable related or a bent hanger so I will look there next.
The situation I am in though is that I don't really like the Ultegra 6700 groupset that's on the bike and I don't want to spend much fixing things. I want Dura-Ace 9000 0 -
It's all good advice
The situation I am in though is that I don't really like the Ultegra 6700 groupset that's on the bike and I don't want to spend much fixing things. I want Dura-Ace 9000
Well that would probably solve your problems! But a better combination would be DuraAce groupset with an Ultegra or 105 cassette. You're doing it the wrong way round 0 -
Jockey wheels were new about a year ago. There might be a slight contribution by these as I got some Tacx ceramic ones to replace the Ultegra ones on the mech. As I understand, one of the Shimano wheels uses a bushing rather than bearings so that there is some lateral play that aids shifting. Both the Tacx wheels use bearings and there is no play. To be fair I don't think this is the problem though because it has only just started and I have had the Tacx wheels for a year.
Could be cable related or a bent hanger so I will look there next.
I'd ditch those tacx jockey wheels and get some shimano ones back on there.
Yes, the top shimano jockey wheel has about 2 to 3mm lateral movement and helps give some tolerance to the shifting.
Your hanger may well be bent but you may get away with it with shimano jockey wheels.
I've fitted non shimano once - never again0 -
It's all good advice
The situation I am in though is that I don't really like the Ultegra 6700 groupset that's on the bike and I don't want to spend much fixing things. I want Dura-Ace 9000
Well that would probably solve your problems! But a better combination would be DuraAce groupset with an Ultegra or 105 cassette. You're doing it the wrong way round
If I get DA9000 I will probably get the Ultegra cassette. I read about the composite carrier that breaks.
I will also try the original jockey wheels again. I had a quick look at the derailleur cage yesterday and could not see any bend in it but I guess it only has to be out by a small amount to have an effect.0 -
My rear shifting has been annoying of late, cannot get the indexing right in both directions at the same time, and I cannot get it to drop into the smallest sprocket despite faffing with the limit screw, so I think the hanger's bent. The outer cables and the rear mech are now 8 year old (the shifter's eaten three inners) and been in year-round use. The jockey wheels are virtually toothless now, both have serious sideways play, and last time I tried to take them out to clean and relube them I rounded off both hex sockets in the mounting bolts.
So I've bought a hanger alignment tool (I have 6 bikes to look after), a new 5700 rear mech, and a Shimano gear cable kit. Luckily it's 5600, so all the cables are exposed and the bartape can stay where it is. Hopefully it will be shifting like a new bike by tomorrow morning!0 -
You could probably have fixed the sticky shifting by just replacing the and inner and rear outer loop. I had the exact same problem a couple of weeks ago on my good bike - not jumping to smallest sprocket and not being able to index consistently and this fix got me back to silky smooth shifting. IMO it's always worth a try before attempting anything more time consuming or expensive.0
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My rear shifting has been annoying of late, cannot get the indexing right in both directions at the same time, and I cannot get it to drop into the smallest sprocket despite faffing with the limit screw, so I think the hanger's bent. The outer cables and the rear mech are now 8 year old (the shifter's eaten three inners) and been in year-round use. The jockey wheels are virtually toothless now, both have serious sideways play, and last time I tried to take them out to clean and relube them I rounded off both hex sockets in the mounting bolts.
So I've bought a hanger alignment tool (I have 6 bikes to look after), a new 5700 rear mech, and a Shimano gear cable kit. Luckily it's 5600, so all the cables are exposed and the bartape can stay where it is. Hopefully it will be shifting like a new bike by tomorrow morning!
i've replaced a lower shimano jockey wheel with play (only the upper should have lateral movement) on a couple of bikes lately and that has sorted erratic gear change issues i.e. it indexes but then doesn't change, then skips 20 -
Tacx jockey wheels can be very good the ones with the cartridge bearings are at least. 10-15K miles from a cassette would be lucky 10km is possible. It really depends on the conditions the bike sees. Personally I run a cassette until the shifting becomes iffy or I get skipping. I change the chains when I should to extend life.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0
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My rear shifting has been annoying of late, cannot get the indexing right in both directions at the same time, and I cannot get it to drop into the smallest sprocket despite faffing with the limit screw, so I think the hanger's bent. The outer cables and the rear mech are now 8 year old (the shifter's eaten three inners) and been in year-round use. The jockey wheels are virtually toothless now, both have serious sideways play, and last time I tried to take them out to clean and relube them I rounded off both hex sockets in the mounting bolts.
So I've bought a hanger alignment tool (I have 6 bikes to look after), a new 5700 rear mech, and a Shimano gear cable kit. Luckily it's 5600, so all the cables are exposed and the bartape can stay where it is. Hopefully it will be shifting like a new bike by tomorrow morning!
Finally found 5 mins for a quick look last night. The hanger tool showed it was significantly bent, so I've straightened it and the smallest sprocket is once again available to me. Shifting is still occasionally sluggish when dropping from large to small sprockets, so I'm still fitting the new mech and recabling when I get the time...
Wishing I'd bought the mech hanger tool years ago!0 -
And I found time to fit the new cables and rear mech last night. Slick, precise shifting once more restored!0
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I'm ordering one of those mech hanger tools. I've seen a lifeline one from about £20,may as well get cables while I'm at it.0
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I'm ordering one of those mech hanger tools. I've seen a lifeline one from about £20,may as well get cables while I'm at it.
The Lifeline one is the one I bought. It's a bit unsophisticated but does the job. I did have to tighten up the grub screw to remove a bit of play in the tool to get it spot on, but for the price it's good.
The things that struck me were:
a) how bent the hanger actually was. It was a Scott replacement fitted new last year and the bike's not been dropped since. I must check the other bike...
b) how neat and precise a finish the Dremel produced on the cut ends of the outers. Wish I'd tried that sooner.0 -
I might bite the bullet and recable everything - brakes included.
I know Shimano said the Dura-Ace 9000 cables were not compatible with earlier groupsets but that could very well be because the new cable contributed a lot to the increased brake and shifting performance and they want people to buy the whole lot and not just the cables.
But if I recable I might get the Dura-Ace cables. Chainreaction have them for the same price as 6800 ones at the moment. So the question is has any one tried the 9000 cables with the previous generation groupsets like 6700?0
