Ultegra Di2 vs Mechanical DA
Scotty-Gee
Posts: 156
Hi All.
I'm considering a new Canyon and undecided on two models.
Mechanical DA-
https://www.canyon.com/en-gb/road/ultimate/ultimate-cf-slx-9-0.html
Ultegra Di2
https://www.canyon.com/en-gb/road/ultimate/ultimate-cf-slx-8-0-di2.html
My current Canyon has Di2 and when operational I love, however it has let me down twice and condifence is lost. I imagine mechanical DA when setup correct would run just as well.
Thoughts on the above models?
I'm considering a new Canyon and undecided on two models.
Mechanical DA-
https://www.canyon.com/en-gb/road/ultimate/ultimate-cf-slx-9-0.html
Ultegra Di2
https://www.canyon.com/en-gb/road/ultimate/ultimate-cf-slx-8-0-di2.html
My current Canyon has Di2 and when operational I love, however it has let me down twice and condifence is lost. I imagine mechanical DA when setup correct would run just as well.
Thoughts on the above models?
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Comments
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i have Di2 ultegra on my summer bike and i have DA 9000 on my 'winter' bike and although the DA is absolutely amazing i still prefer my Di2. However my Di2 has been flawless since it was built up last year so i've not encountered any of the bugs. A friend i cycle with has Dura Ace Di2 and he's had nothing but problems with it and is considering stripping it and buying mechanical. Some people just get on with no issues i guessScott Foil - viewtopic.php?f=40044&t=129827790
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9000 is superb and very close to Di2 shifting wise. Its very reliable and it does not need much attention or tweaking.
But it does have some faults.
The front trim is a bit of a pain having 4 different positions. You will definitely be clicking the left shifter alot more and you will miss the auto trim on Di2.
The hoods are not as malleable as before so when pulling them back to reach the clamp bolt they have a tendency to split and tear. I have split 3 up to now and they don't sell them in singles. They also cannot be installed by being pulled over the brake levers like before ,otherwise you risk tearing them again. The shifters have to be removed and the cables unhooked from the derailleurs and frame so that can be a.p.i.t.a
The hoods are not as soft and are more slippery because they don't a have grippy texture like the Di2 hoods. I think the Di2 hoods are also a better shape and feel more comfortable to hold.
I have found to keep everything running optimally the 9000 shifters need to be regularly lubed. They work fine when not but they work ALOT better when they are. This can cost more in maintenance in the long run.
There have also been reports that the shifters are chewing through cables. Shimano supposedly released the 9001 shifters to address it but i have experienced 1 left cable snap at the head after 9 months with my 9001 shifters. Some are saying it was batch of faulty polymer cables which i was using at the time so that could actually be the fault not the shifters. I have installed some normal stainless cables both left and right and it hasn't happened since.
If you want smoothness of operation then get Di2.
If you want lightweight and have no problems setting up a FD, dont mind a little bit more clunklyness or maintenance then get mechanical.0 -
I've been running Ultegra Di2 for a few months, no problems except the chain slipped off the small ring at the weekend whilst cresting 15% climb! It was in town and as I was moving with the slow traffic, the constant stop start seemed to dislodge the chain somehow. But that might not be the Di2's fault!Rose X-Lite CRS 3100
Focus Cayo AL0 -
Ultegra is fugly.I'm sorry you don't believe in miracles0
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It is really ugly too, this also has to be considered.
I'm pretty sure I could get the DA up and running well, after all many of the pros still use it!0 -
I went from DA9000 to DI2, much as I loved my 9000 I have to say that DI2 is better in every way. Its not a worlds apart difference, but every function on the group set is just that bit nicer from the auto trim to multi shift.
I wouldn't go back to mechanical on my nice bike0 -
I've got the original Ultegra Di2 design and when operational its sensational. If only Canyon offered DA Di2 then there wouldn't be a problem.0
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Ran Dura Ace 10 speed no issues.
Upgraded to 11 speed Dura Ace electronic and was blown away. Just superb. My gear selection improved, as did my cadence and overall management of the gears. Auto trim superb.
Had a break from cycling bought an 11 speed mechanical bike and find it fiddly, forever trimming on the front and so wish I had electronic again. Auto trim is a god send with 11 speed imo.0 -
I asked the same question to a friend who has used both, and now runs SRAM Red, and he reckons Di2 is the best of the 3.
His reasoning is that it is because it is completely faff free- you never have to adjust cable tension between hot and cold days (and apparently on some long alpine ascents when it changes as you go up, although I don't know how many of those you'll be doing!) and it just always works.
The newer edition looks a lot nicer than the original edition IMO, and apparently with the internal battery is actually a couple of grams LIGHTER than mechanical Ultegra so certainly doesn't weigh a ton.
You could always put on a DA chainset and you'd make up a lot of the weight difference.
The only downside is the charging, but even then it will last for a very long time.
DA is a very pretty groupset, but I think I'd be leaning towards the Ultegra Di2 instead now.0 -
Re charging, I charged my 9070 before a 4 day trip to Bormio 3 weeks back. Rode hard for the long weekend, have used for the bike 3-4 times a week since I've been back. The battery charge indicator is still showing fully charged....I wouldn't worry too much about charging these things frequently ;-)0
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[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19652816#p19652816]SloppySchleckonds[/url] wrote:Ultegra is fugly.
How many times have you rolled out that same old line?
People must like fugly/ugly as it clearly sells0 -
I asked the same question to a friend who has used both, and now runs SRAM Red, and he reckons Di2 is the best of the 3.
His reasoning is that it is because it is completely faff free- you never have to adjust cable tension between hot and cold days (and apparently on some long alpine ascents when it changes as you go up, although I don't know how many of those you'll be doing!) and it just always works.
I've never used electronic but I have used mechanical groupsets in extremes of heat and been over some fairly high mountain passes in the Alps and it also "just works" without having to adjust cable tension.[Castle Donington Ladies FC - going up in '22]0 -
The newer edition looks a lot nicer than the original edition IMO, and apparently with the internal battery is actually a couple of grams LIGHTER than mechanical Ultegra so certainly doesn't weigh a ton.
DA 9070 Di2 is a few grams lighter than DA9000.0 -
[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19652816#p19652816]SloppySchleckonds[/url] wrote:Ultegra is fugly.
How many times have you rolled out that same old line?
People must like fugly/ugly as it clearly sells
It is ugly though and I think its worth reminding people.
Why do they still insist on making it in that silly colour that looks odd on most bikes?
People don't usually like ugly, they probably just don't care, probably because its cheaper.
People like/love cheap.0 -
Isn't the fact you are pushing buttons rather than moving levers hundreds of times every ride also a massive factor in choosing between Di2 and mechanical?0
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I asked the same question to a friend who has used both, and now runs SRAM Red, and he reckons Di2 is the best of the 3.
His reasoning is that it is because it is completely faff free- you never have to adjust cable tension between hot and cold days (and apparently on some long alpine ascents when it changes as you go up, although I don't know how many of those you'll be doing!) and it just always works.
I've never used electronic but I have used mechanical groupsets in extremes of heat and been over some fairly high mountain passes in the Alps and it also "just works" without having to adjust cable tension.
i also found that extremes of hot an cold effected the shifting of DI2 too, cable resistance would change... causing poor shifts, changing the loom (to shimano part no 99844-BS) before the descent/ascent fixed this but does add another faff to di2.
Stick with da9000, reindexing is easier.0 -
Get the mechanical, then upgrade to wireless when it comes out!0
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i also found that extremes of hot an cold effected the shifting of DI2 too, cable resistance would change... causing poor shifts,
Seriously?
I would love to have the time to sit down and calculate the change in resistance of a Di2 wire due to a 20'C change in temperature, but I haven't, but I suspect it is infitessimally small.0 -
i also found that extremes of hot an cold effected the shifting of DI2 too, cable resistance would change... causing poor shifts,
Seriously?
I would love to have the time to sit down and calculate the change in resistance of a Di2 wire due to a 20'C change in temperature, but I haven't, but I suspect it is infitessimally small.
I can only think he's joking - including the reindexing bit. You can easily index Di2 whilst riding on the incredibly rare occasions you might need to do it.ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH0 -
i also found that extremes of hot an cold effected the shifting of DI2 too, cable resistance would change... causing poor shifts,
Seriously?
I would love to have the time to sit down and calculate the change in resistance of a Di2 wire due to a 20'C change in temperature, but I haven't, but I suspect it is infitessimally small.
i am always serious0 -
ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH0 -
i also found that extremes of hot an cold effected the shifting of DI2 too, cable resistance would change... causing poor shifts,
Seriously?
I would love to have the time to sit down and calculate the change in resistance of a Di2 wire due to a 20'C change in temperature, but I haven't, but I suspect it is infitessimally small.
i am always serious
OK, so by my calcs a 100 Ohm wire, going from 5 to 25'C would increase to 107 Ohms.
I don't really see that as an issue.
If it were, surely all the electronics in a car would stop working too?0
