Gearing Setup for CX/Commuter
CosmicKoala
Posts: 5
Seeking some advice for a task that seems to have infinitely many options (but I'm slowly narrowing it down).
I recently bought a Raleigh Furley single-speed steel CX bike (here: http://www.raleigh-canada.ca/bikes-dirt-cyclocross-furley), with the full intention of adding gears to it. I was waiting to see whether I was going to buy a used road bike as well before deciding how to gear it.
I subsequently bought a road bike with a 105 group on it, so I don't need full road gearing on the Furley.
Right now, the Furley has a single-speed 46t + 18t drivetrain with an eccentric BB. It's very comfortable on the mid-range at roughly 0-2% grade, but I want to be able to start up quicker, strain my knees less on hills, and achieve a higher top speed on flats.
I'll be primarily commuting, for now, but I also want it to be trail- and gravel-ready. My commuting sometimes involves hills, and I often carry an ~8kg pannier.
I'm looking at 1x9 and 1x10 setups -- leaning towards the latter. I'd like to get a Wolf Tooth narrow/wide ring for the front. I'll probably use a bar-end shifter for the RD.
If you think a two-by setup might serve me better, please say so!
I suppose this also comes with the consideration that with a one-by setup, I can always swap out the chainring if I need a different range for a specific activity. So my primary concern is commuting.
I'm in reasonably good shape, but I'm no athlete and I have some knee issues.
In terms of ratios/spreads, options I'm considering are:
42t + 11-28t road
44t + 12-30t road
44t + 11-32t mtn
52t + 12-30t road (probably not low enough)
52t + 11-36t mtn
For a rear derailleur, I'd likely either get a 105 5700 (road) or Deore Shadow (mtn).
I just really don't have a feel for how this would play out, so I'm hoping you can share your experiences and/or thoughts about the setup.
I recently bought a Raleigh Furley single-speed steel CX bike (here: http://www.raleigh-canada.ca/bikes-dirt-cyclocross-furley), with the full intention of adding gears to it. I was waiting to see whether I was going to buy a used road bike as well before deciding how to gear it.
I subsequently bought a road bike with a 105 group on it, so I don't need full road gearing on the Furley.
Right now, the Furley has a single-speed 46t + 18t drivetrain with an eccentric BB. It's very comfortable on the mid-range at roughly 0-2% grade, but I want to be able to start up quicker, strain my knees less on hills, and achieve a higher top speed on flats.
I'll be primarily commuting, for now, but I also want it to be trail- and gravel-ready. My commuting sometimes involves hills, and I often carry an ~8kg pannier.
I'm looking at 1x9 and 1x10 setups -- leaning towards the latter. I'd like to get a Wolf Tooth narrow/wide ring for the front. I'll probably use a bar-end shifter for the RD.
If you think a two-by setup might serve me better, please say so!
I suppose this also comes with the consideration that with a one-by setup, I can always swap out the chainring if I need a different range for a specific activity. So my primary concern is commuting.
I'm in reasonably good shape, but I'm no athlete and I have some knee issues.
In terms of ratios/spreads, options I'm considering are:
42t + 11-28t road
44t + 12-30t road
44t + 11-32t mtn
52t + 12-30t road (probably not low enough)
52t + 11-36t mtn
For a rear derailleur, I'd likely either get a 105 5700 (road) or Deore Shadow (mtn).
I just really don't have a feel for how this would play out, so I'm hoping you can share your experiences and/or thoughts about the setup.
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Comments
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My Hybrid is built up as 1x9 using a 46 with a 12-28, that suites my commute, ride the commute on your road bike, note which gears you use and then calculate the ratios and then sort a 1x combi that will cover the ratios needed - its what I did.
For a road bike a narrow wide ring or chain guide on the chainwheel is all you need, so you don't need an MTB mech (with damper). MTB would mean you HAVE to use MTB shifters if going 1x10 (which is often cheaper as new parts than 1x9 now), if going 1x9 then you can mix and match road and MTB (you can sue an MTB 9 speed mech with a 10 speed road shifter though).
Last time I looked you could only get narrow/wide in a 42 or 44 for a road crankset, not a 52?Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
My Hybrid is built up as 1x9 using a 46 with a 12-28, that suites my commute, ride the commute on your road bike, note which gears you use and then calculate the ratios and then sort a 1x combi that will cover the ratios needed - its what I did.
For a road bike a narrow wide ring or chain guide on the chainwheel is all you need, so you don't need an MTB mech (with damper). MTB would mean you HAVE to use MTB shifters if going 1x10 (which is often cheaper as new parts than 1x9 now), if going 1x9 then you can mix and match road and MTB (you can sue an MTB 9 speed mech with a 10 speed road shifter though).
Last time I looked you could only get narrow/wide in a 42 or 44 for a road crankset, not a 52?
Not sure how much you are looking to replace but I think I am right in saying that for SRAM 10 speed you can mix MTB/Road shifters and mechs. I have used x9 and x5 shifters with Apex Mech and Rival Mechs with no trouble - but never actually had Road shifters controlling MTB mechs however I think you would be fine for SRAM but not Shimano0 -
I tried a SRAM 10 speed road mech ('direct actuation') with my X0 nine speed ('1:1actuation') and it wasn't compatible.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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My Boardman CX came with a 50/34 and 11/32. I swapped the 50 for a 46 6 months ago and haven't touched the left hand shifter since0