Saddle Position
Elfed
Posts: 459
Hi, wonder if someone could help with a saddle issue.
Whilst riding I seem to be comfortable if I roll my hips forward but I have to consciously do that, otherwise my natural position seems slightly forward of the comfort point.
When going downhill it seems perfectly comfortable.
So, do I move the saddle slightly forward or just tilt the nose up slightly?
Saddle is set up level with tail and tip.
Whilst riding I seem to be comfortable if I roll my hips forward but I have to consciously do that, otherwise my natural position seems slightly forward of the comfort point.
When going downhill it seems perfectly comfortable.
So, do I move the saddle slightly forward or just tilt the nose up slightly?
Saddle is set up level with tail and tip.
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Comments
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Try moving the saddle forward. What do you have to lose?The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
I am not sure. You have no chance.Veronese68 wrote:PB is the most sensible person on here.0 -
Try moving the saddle forward. What do you have to lose?
Alternatively, try tipping it up as per your post: no change or it gets worse then just move it back to how it was/is.Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
I'll try with moving the saddle forward 5mm and have another go tonight.
I did try and set it whilst on the turbo but find that my position's way more stretched out when I'm on the road,0 -
When out on a ride on the flat, free wheel with your pedals at 3 & 9 o'clock and lift your bum an inch or two off the saddle. Upper body & arms relaxed. Then lower your bum straight down. Your bum should end up in your best seat position. Adjust your saddle to match. Try a few times and see how it goes. Well it works for me.0
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When out on a ride on the flat, free wheel with your pedals at 3 & 9 o'clock and lift your bum an inch or two off the saddle. Upper body & arms relaxed. Then lower your bum straight down. Your bum should end up in your best seat position. Adjust your saddle to match. Try a few times and see how it goes. Well it works for me.
Thanks for that' I'll try that later.
I'm trying not to tilt up the nose as I'm led to believe saddles are made to be set up parallel to the ground. The way I use is to put a 2m spirit level on the saddle and measure both ends down to the floor, if both measurements match it's spot on, way more accurate than looking at the bubble.0 -
A 2m spirit level may be slightly OTT, but you're right to think that the saddle is designed to be attached 'more or less' level.
Our backsides are not developed with the aid of a 2m spirit level, so you may be assuming a degree of engineering consistency absent from the blueprint.
The first (and most important) element of saddle position is fore-aft. I set this (others will do different things) with a plum line from the bottom of my forward knee cap with the cranks horizontal. I want the saddle to be set where it allows the line to pass right through the fulcrum of the pedal.
Your ideal position may differ from that by a few millimetres here or there, but it's a good starting place.
Once you have the fore-aft set (or roughly set) then you can look at tilt, if you feel the need. Make tiny, tiny changes and see how each feels. You may find that several different settings suit you. Very few people have one 'ideal' saddle position.
Get the basics right and then go either way to find a nice place. Good luck and have fun!0 -
A 2m spirit level may be slightly OTT, but you're right to think that the saddle is designed to be attached 'more or less' level.
Our backsides are not developed with the aid of a 2m spirit level, so you may be assuming a degree of engineering consistency absent from the blueprint.
The first (and most important) element of saddle position is fore-aft. I set this (others will do different things) with a plum line from the bottom of my forward knee cap with the cranks horizontal. I want the saddle to be set where it allows the line to pass right through the fulcrum of the pedal.
Your ideal position may differ from that by a few millimetres here or there, but it's a good starting place.
Once you have the fore-aft set (or roughly set) then you can look at tilt, if you feel the need. Make tiny, tiny changes and see how each feels. You may find that several different settings suit you. Very few people have one 'ideal' saddle position.
Get the basics right and then go either way to find a nice place. Good luck and have fun!
I haven't purchased the level especially to fit saddles, got all sorts of sizes being a joiner, the 2m is perfect for door frames and casings. Just use it as a straight edge really, bubble not needed.
Anyway, I see what you mean, and minute changes can make a big difference, which also makes me think that perhaps many saddles would suit, just got to find the perfect positioning.0 -
If using a spirit level to set a saddle make sure the bike is on level ground or you can get some very tilted results.
Have a read about KOPS to give you a good starting point which you can adjust as needed.0 -
If using a spirit level to set a saddle make sure the bike is on level ground or you can get some very tilted results.
Have a read about KOPS to give you a good starting point which you can adjust as needed.
You didn't read how I do it did you? I place the level/straight edge on the saddle then measure down from each end, if both measure the same it's perfect, be it on a hill or flat ground, don't even have to look at the bubble.
Anyway, moved the saddle 5mm forward and went for a ride, big difference, almost no perineum pain and no adjustment needed when sitting down off the saddle.
The only thing I would have liked is the saddle slightly further back when climbing, I suspect a slight tilt up might cure that. I'll leave it for now for a few rides, see how it fares.
Thank you gentlemen!0
