Shimano Hydraulic Fluid

BIGBOSS78659
BIGBOSS78659 Posts: 61
edited July 2015 in MTB workshop & tech
Hello,
I seem to have some issues with my hydraulic brake system. When I was bleeding before, the bleed port on the caliper was a bit lose. Over the days I noticed the brake performance was lost and I could see oil was leaking. I immediately tighten the screw. I topped the oil up in the lever. Brake seems to work kind of fine. I think the hydraulic fluid went on the pads so the brake performance was a bit lost. I sanded the brake pads they have improved but they not powerful. I also did that on the rotor. I was going to upgrade the rotors to 203mm as I currently have 160mm rotor. I was also thinking of purchasing new pads. Now, I just noticed that the caliper bleed port is leaking still even though i have tighten the screw. Could anyone help. I'm thinking of just going back to mechanical brakes.

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    No idea what you are asking. Either get the brakes fixed and pads replaced and rotor and caliper cleaned.

    Or do whatever.

    Tightening things does not always fix things and can often make things worse.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
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  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    They work kind of fine, despite not working......erm OK,

    Oil on pads means scrap and get new ones, also clean the disc before fitting them.

    Never had a bleed nipple come lose ever, either it has a defect and it or the caliper is scrap, or your doing something wrong.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • When I was bleeding before, the bleed port on the caliper was a bit lose.
    Why were you bleeding them before?
    Over the days I noticed the brake performance was lost and I could see oil was leaking.
    Did you replace the brake olive?
    I immediately tighten the screw. I topped the oil up in the lever. Brake seems to work kind of fine.
    If you didn't bleed the system again it was never going to work properly because there is now air in the system
    I think the hydraulic fluid went on the pads so the brake performance was a bit lost. I sanded the brake pads they have improved but they not powerful. I also did that on the rotor.
    the lack of power is because of the air in the system
    Now, I just noticed that the caliper bleed port is leaking still even though i have tighten the screw. Could anyone help.
    Sounds like you have managed to strip the thread in the bleed port on the caliper, or you just need to replace the brake olive and rebleed.
    I'm thinking of just going back to mechanical brakes.
    Hydraulic brakes are fine, you just don't understand how they work. You need to have a sealed system without air in it. By your description, you've never had that.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    If he's stripped the bleed nipple thread, that is nothing to do with the olive on the hose, on most Shimano it's a scrap calliper.

    As he doesn't mention touching the hose, why would he want a new olive? Do you know what/where an olive is?
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • If he's stripped the bleed nipple thread, that is nothing to do with the olive on the hose, on most Shimano it's a scrap calliper.

    As he doesn't mention touching the hose, why would he want a new olive? Do you know what/where an olive is?

    The two aren't related, its just two independent possibilities

    He doesn't mention why he was bleeding the brakes in the first place, I'm taking a guess he might have been replacing the hose or trimming it at the caliper end for some reason. It seems unlikely, but no more unlikely than a bleed nipple magically coming loose.

    That would be the hopeful possibility as it's obviously cheaper, the more likely explanation though is going to be the stripped thread.
  • Hello,
    Just wanted to give you guys an update. I have tighted the bolt so the oil stops leaking. I have cleaned the rotor and caliper. Bought new pads. I rebled the system and took it for a test run. Once I pressed the brakes. The oil started leaking I think from the pistons. I do have another caliper which is new. I think the one I currently have is faulty as I had bleed them 5 times and now it's leaked again. Should I disconnect the caliper and use the another which is new. Could anyone tell me how to change th hose from one caliper to another.
    Thanks
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Get an olive. Holding caliper upwards disconnect hose, remove old olive, fit new, reconnect. You'll have to top up fluid and bleed.
    I don't do smileys.

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  • Does it use the same olive like the lever one. Do you think there Is something wrong with caliper I already have.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Same olive, and if it's chucking fluid out all over something is wrong.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

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  • I have successfully done it. So far no leaks. Didn't need the olive. All I did was just remove the hose from old caliper then attach to the new. After that I bled the brakes. Brakes squeak like hell. Need to purchase new pads. Probably buy a bigger rotor for higher brake performance. I'm just wondering, does anyone know what was wrong with old caliper. I was told by someone that the seals must have broke on the pistons therefore oil leaked.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    And clean the rotors properly or your new pads will be fubared.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools