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Another 1x10 thread...

TCottleTCottle Posts: 65
edited July 2015 in MTB workshop & tech
Alright guys,

I've had my Cube Stereo for about a year now and recently trashed one of the teeth on the 38T chainring on my 2x10 XT set-up.

Seems a good excuse to go 1x10!

I am a total novice - I've read some guides and stuff out there, but wonder if I could have some advice!

So it is my intention to stick with the 11-36 cassette at the rear and go with a narrow-wide 32T chainring up front. I figure I can always add a 40/42T expander later?

So my shopping list is as follows;

- Race Face 32T Narrow Wide Chain Ring
- Steel Chainring Bolts
- Torx Keys
- Chainring Bolt Spanner

And for ease of chain fitting/removal;

- KMC 10-Speed Chain
- KMC Chain Connectors
- KMC Chain Link Remover

I understand one of the benefits to 1x10 is great chain retention, so I wouldn't necessarily need a chain guide - but what bout the spacing from where the old 24T chainring used to sit? Do I need to buy something to fill the gap?

My rear derailleur is a "Shimano XT, RD-M781-DGSL, Shadow 10-Speed, direct mount" - I gather I don't need to replace this? Or to I need a Shadow Plus derailleur?

Do I need to buy anything else!?

Sorry #noob

Thanks for your time :)

Posts

  • codfathercodfather Posts: 359
    When going 1x10 from a Shimano double setup, all you need to do is swap the big ring for your new N/W, remove the small ring and put the small ring bolts back into their threads to stop them clogging up with censored . A Shimano double holds the two chainrings seperately, so you won't need new bolts to affix the N/W to the arms. As for expander sprockets, they're only an option for the higher end cassettes where the 15t and 17t sprockets are individual with spacers rather than riveted together in the main block (XT and up I believe [?]). As for the derailleur, a standard Shadow will allow the chain to move more vertically over rough ground, possibly resulting in it hopping off the teeth. In the case of short cage mechs though, often this doesn't happen. I'd say keep the current mech and run it in the 1x10 setup for a while; if you find it dropping the chain, might be advisable to try a clutch mech.

    Also, none of those links work :wink:
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  • The RookieThe Rookie Posts: 27,811
    Not sure why you would want a Torx key, unless you have very strange chainring bolts, most are Allen keys.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • delete_my_accountdelete_my_account Posts: 192
    XT chainring bolts are usually torx
    Delete my censored account.
  • MattceeMattcee Posts: 148
    My SLX bolts were torx too.
  • GiraffotoGiraffoto Posts: 2,078
    I looked into this issue recently, and it should simply be a matter of removing the small ring and swapping the big ring for your new one. And don't worry too much about chain line.
    Specialized Roubaix Elite 2015
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  • The RookieThe Rookie Posts: 27,811
    [url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19651640#p19651640]Mattcee[/url] wrote:
    My SLX bolts were torx too.
    Indeed some checks suggest the latest ones are all Torx, mine were from 2006/7 so I guess things have changed a bit!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • cooldadcooldad Posts: 32,599
    [url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19652469#p19652469]The Rookie[/url] wrote:
    [url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19651640#p19651640]Mattcee[/url] wrote:
    My SLX bolts were torx too.
    Indeed some checks suggest the latest ones are all Torx, mine were from 2006/7 so I guess things have changed a bit!
    Welcome to the 21st century.

    Even 29ers have come and gone in that time.
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  • The RookieThe Rookie Posts: 27,811
    I do have some modern stuff on my bike you know!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • cooldadcooldad Posts: 32,599
    Solid rubber tyres and rod brakes are no longer considered modern.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • The RookieThe Rookie Posts: 27,811
    Indeed not, but they are quite fun...I'm still toying with the idea of getting one for the laugh!

    By the way, just to help you out,l 2006 IS in the 21st century.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • cooldadcooldad Posts: 32,599
    Hence my very sincere welcome.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • TCottleTCottle Posts: 65
    Cheers for the help :)

    Finished the conversion today. I did end up having to pop to the local Halfords for a Park Tool crank arm remover - Which luckily for me they actually had one left in stock!

    I'm not very mechanically minded, but found it to be fairly straight forward.

    I ended up staying with the original chain, and just broke it and put it back together - which was a bit fiddly, but got there in the end. I think I ended up only removing 3 links with the Big/Big+2 rule.

    I was really pleased with how it felt and performed, didn't drop the chain at all - Even without a clutch mech.

    I'll probably look to get an XT Shadow+ at some point anyway, but yeah... very pleased with the result.
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