Which Rotors?
WhyteSky
Posts: 70
Evening All,
I'm in the process of building up a Cotic BFe from a used frame I bought and parts I have in my lockup.
There's one or two bits I'm going to need to buy to complete the build. One of these items is Rotors.
I'm going to go 203 up front and 180 at the back. My question is though, is there actually any difference between cheap rotors and expensive ones?
Other than weight, surely a disc of steel is a disc of steel and when you apply pressure to either side if said disc it slows momentum?
Or is there more to it than that?
Cheers folks.
I'm in the process of building up a Cotic BFe from a used frame I bought and parts I have in my lockup.
There's one or two bits I'm going to need to buy to complete the build. One of these items is Rotors.
I'm going to go 203 up front and 180 at the back. My question is though, is there actually any difference between cheap rotors and expensive ones?
Other than weight, surely a disc of steel is a disc of steel and when you apply pressure to either side if said disc it slows momentum?
Or is there more to it than that?
Cheers folks.
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Comments
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You have summed it up quite well.
There is very little difference until you get to some of the sandwich type but then those have different issues."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
If you are going for those sizes, you won't be looking for lightweight discs at a guess, so as you thought and Nick says, any vaguely decent disc will do.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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Thank you,
Whilst I'd like everything on the bike to be as light as possible to offset the 5.5lbs of steel in the frame, if I have the choice of paying £30+ for a light disc or £10 for a budget one that's 20g heavier but will stop the bike in the same manner then I think I'd rather gain 20g in weight and be £20 better off.
Decision made - cheapo discs it is.
Thanks again.0 -
Have a look at the A2Z discs, not sure if they do a 200mm but they are fairly light and a good price. Hayes discs come up fairly light as well.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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the quality if the materials does actually make a difference to the rotor.
what brakes have you got?0 -
Brilliant. Halfrauds do the A2Z ones. At £14.99 for the 203 Halfrauds are quite expensive. However, I've got a stack of voichers for them plus I get 20% odd so that'd make sense.
At 190g for the 203mm and 160g for the 180mm they're not the lightest but in the same breath they're also not the heaviest.
I've currently bolted a set of Avod Juicy's on but as soon as the pads wear out (or, more likely, sooner) I'll be changing them for XT's or SLX's. Yes, I know they're not the definition of light but they're about as good as anything else I've used.0 -
I have the A2Z with the alloy spider on the front of mine £25 and almost as light as a lightweight disc but with a full braking surface.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0