Zonda no rim tape?
jpower
Posts: 554
Was curious to know, just got some Zonda's wheels and there was no rim tape, when I read the blurb: http://www.wiggle.co.uk/campagnolo-zonda-clincher-wheelset/ it says:
Just wanted to confirm no rim tape required then?
MoMag allows the external profile of the rim to be free of holes thus increasing structural resistance. Also makes rim tape unnecessary and reduces the weight of the wheel
Just wanted to confirm no rim tape required then?
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Comments
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No holes. No need.My blog: http://www.roubaixcycling.cc (kit reviews and other musings)
https://twitter.com/roubaixcc
Facebook? No. Just say no.0 -
Correct you do not need a rim tape. The rims already have a nice smooth surface that will not puncture the inner tube.0
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Great, thanks will get moving and put the tyres on, I hope the Michelin's go on a bit easier then last wheels, right buggers.Correct you do not need a rim tape. The rims already have a nice smooth surface that will not puncture the inner tube.0 -
Great, thanks will get moving and put the tyres on, I hope the Michelin's go on a bit easier then last wheels, right buggers.Correct you do not need a rim tape. The rims already have a nice smooth surface that will not puncture the inner tube.
My Michelin pro4sc slid on with very little effort. IMHO the stiff plastic rim tapes are the cause of most tyre fitting problems. Zondas, no tape so no problem.0 -
So rear SC went on with a little trouble, not as easy as I wanted.
Front I use Lithium (because SC had punctures on first 2 rides), anyway no way it was going on. Took out SC and went on with some trouble. Now hoping for more luck with SC front, the rear done many km's no issues.
Question should I use Zonda's thru the winter, or better to use my stock rims?0 -
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Question should I use Zonda's thru the winter, or better to use my stock rims?
The answer is "it depends..."
Zondas do have cup/cone bearings so can be serviced (as opposed to replaced) but that usually means that they have to be serviced. Hence, if you are planning on ridign them in all conditions then it might be worth checking out how to service hubs (as a ref, servicing RS30 hubs took me about 20 mins and needed doing about every 2 months, all fairly straightforward though and no special tools needed apart from the right size cup/cone spanners and a grease gun).
Winter use just means usage that will wear the rims more (the wet weather gets more crap/fine grit across the rim which then wears when braking). Same goes for salty roads when damp as the spray on the rims is near perfect as a grinding paste. However, there are plenty of nice days in the winter and some folks have a different idea of a consumable. At my club, I noticed on one "Winter training ride" on a sh1te day in Feb there were several Cervelos and some of the wheels on show were worth more than my "summer" bike (which is actually just a "bike" that gets ridden throughout the year).
Last couple of winters I have ridden cheapo RS30s...which are now in the bin as the rims wore out. I have some Zondas that I am riding at the moment and I will probably keep them on this winter too as I don't mind changing them at some point (I find them a tad harsh for a light weight rider on long rides).0 -
Servicing the hubs on Zondas you just need some allen keys and a little screwdriver or blade to pop the bearing seals out. So as far as tools go, most people already have what they need.
Bearings are cheap, under a tenner a pair, cups and cones aren't expensive either.
If you make sure when you re-assemble there is plenty of grease and that you make sure where the end cap comes off you have some grease there then they are pretty hardy. Jet washing or high powered hose washing aimed at the hubs will stuff things quicker than bad weather will.
Once you've had the hubs apart once it won't scare you if you're even a bit mechanically minded, the play in the bearings is much like knowing the feel of a headset when adjusting that, you can have the wheel in the frame then feel the play by wobbling the rim sideways with your fingers then adjusting by twisting the end cap then locking it in place by nipping it's little allen bolt when done.
Like mentioned above, to one man Zondas are cheap and to another they are a big outlay, so only you can make your mind up. Absolutely nothing wrong with running them year round though and they'll last you a good few years unless you're doing a lot of mileage. Brack tracks on the rim will wear more if you're a hilly rider that uses the brakes plenty, all common sense really.
Oh, as per rim tape, the valve hole can be a little sharp edged on the inside of the rim, no harm in putting a couple of pieces of insulating tape over it then making a hole through with a pen, that will soften the edges so nothing can catch or pinch.0 -
Thanks for all the advice.I'm pretty terrible when I take things apart, I think I will air on caution and use the stock rim on the worse days, which is a quick changeover so not really much hassle. Can't wait for the weekend to take the Zonda's out.0
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Page 127:
http://www.campagnolo.com/media/files/035_252_Catalogue_spare%20parts_tools_Campagnolo_2015_part_C.pdf
Bearings and cones form Ribble: HB-RE022 and HB-RE023.
I have replaced the bearings and cups on my Eurus's twice, the pawls once and the pawl spring once. My Eurus's have done silly miles and were 2nd hand when I got them. As long as the rim holds up, your Zonda's should go for a while. Campag wheels seem to roll so well. I had a pair of entry level Sirocco's that were fine for a long time.
Winter? I have a pair of Fulcrum 7's. I hit a pothole at speed in the dark last winter. The rear light hanger sheared, my bottle came out of the cage and the tyre was split. I was surprised to stay upright. The Fulcrum's? Almost perfect. Just a tweek on 3 spokes and restored to former glory. Can't fault them - heavy but bullet proof.seanoconn - gruagach craic!0
