Garmin 800 cadence sensor stopped working...
alpineaddict
Posts: 247
My Garmin 800 Cadence sensor has seemingly stopped working... I have ensured that it is lined up with the accompanying device on the bike but I don't seem to be able to get it going... It used to work fine, but having been off the bike for ages, I can't recall if I need to activate anything on the Garmin, other than what I think I have already done...
The Garmin works fine for everything else so I don't think it is the actual device on the bike, more the sensor on the pedal or the Garmin itself...????
Any thoughts...
The Garmin works fine for everything else so I don't think it is the actual device on the bike, more the sensor on the pedal or the Garmin itself...????
Any thoughts...
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Comments
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Battery may need replacing0
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Is there a battery in the actual sensor then on the pedal...? ok, didn't realise that... (doh)0
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Is there a battery in the actual sensor then on the pedal...? ok, didn't realise that... (doh)
It's a magnet on the pedal, no battery in there.
There is a battery in the sensor.0 -
OK... Like I said... The device on the chain stay is working as I get all the readings off of the sensor on the spokes... to my Garmin..??0
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If it's the combined speed/cadence sensor, the GSC10 I think, then it's broken. They do break, regularly. The reed switch that is operated by the magnet for cadence sensing fails.0
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OK... Like I said... The device on the chain stay is working as I get all the readings off of the sensor on the spokes... to my Garmin..??
A couple of thoughts (soory if I am over obvious).
1. The "sensor" on the spokes and on the pedal are both magnets. They don't sense anything but simply induct the generation of a signal when they pass the GC10 on the chainstay. The sensors are all in the GC10. Check that the magnet is still attached to the pedal/crank.
2. The GC10 has (I think) two sensors. One picks up the spokes magnet (speed) and one picks up the pedal magnet (cadence). One of them (I forget which) is on a pivot allowing you to move the sensor closer to the passing magnet. Has the pivot been closed and the sensor moved too far away from the magnet?
This photo suggests the pivoted sensor is for the spokes:
My guess is the magnet is no longer attached.0 -
If the crank magnet is the problem then you want to put one of these in your pedal axle.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10x-Rare-Earth-Magnets-6mm-x-2mm-/331147457492?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4d19ed33d4
Actually, you are probably better off using one anyway.The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
I am not sure. You have no chance.Veronese68 wrote:PB is the most sensible person on here.0 -
Spedd and everything else is working fine... I tis just the cadence that isn't coming through... So Navrig2 I am not convinced that your images reflect the part that I am having trouble with...
PBlakeney, Currently the crank/pedal magnet is strapped on to the end of the crank, in perfect line with the device on the chain stay... I can't believe the magnet has stopped working (does that actually happen?)0 -
Have you gone back to basics and re-paired the sensor? I've had to do it once.Trail fun - Transition Bandit
Road - Wilier Izoard Centaur/Cube Agree C62 Disc
Allround - Cotic Solaris0 -
Have you gone back to basics and re-paired the sensor? I've had to do it once.
When you say 'sensor' do you mean the device on the chain stay? If so, then no... Tbh I would just make things a whole lot worse if I tried that myself... Gonna pop in to my lbs and ask them about it... Just thought someone on here might have some gems of wisdom first...
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If the crank magnet is the problem then you want to put one of these in your pedal axle.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10x-Rare-Earth-Magnets-6mm-x-2mm-/331147457492?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4d19ed33d4
Actually, you are probably better off using one anyway.
^^^^ this - much more powerful than the ugly crank magnets so takes away all the positioning issues.
is it wrong to despair of people who seek and receive advice and the resolve to pop into their lbs anyway?
note "re-pair" and "repair" are two completely different words.Bianchi Infinito CV
Bianchi Via Nirone 7 Ultegra
Brompton S Type
Carrera Vengeance Ultimate Ltd
Gary Fisher Aquila '98
Front half of a Viking Saratoga Tandem0 -
Have you gone back to basics and re-paired the sensor? I've had to do it once.
When you say 'sensor' do you mean the device on the chain stay? If so, then no... Tbh I would just make things a whole lot worse if I tried that myself... Gonna pop in to my lbs and ask them about it... Just thought someone on here might have some gems of wisdom first...
I do, but the when I say re-pairing I mean just going into settings on the head unit to make sure it's still recognising the crank sensor (as you must have done when you first installed it).Trail fun - Transition Bandit
Road - Wilier Izoard Centaur/Cube Agree C62 Disc
Allround - Cotic Solaris0 -
It could be that the whole unit has died. IIRC if the rear wheel sensor stops working then the head unit will just use the GPS data instead so it may appear that the speed side is working when it actually isn't.0
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Have you tried the test procedure? Press the button on the gsc 10, then turn the cranks, the button should light up each time the cranks pass the sensor. Think it's green for the cadence and red for the wheel sensor but might be the other way round! If it's not working, pass a magnet directly over the sensor to see if that gets a response. If thatthat works the sensor needs to be closer to the crank, if it fails, it's probably knackered, but a battery change might be worth trying....0
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Thx all for the advice... Really helpful and will try the test thingy as well, failing that I will purchase some of those magnets form fleabay...t4tomo wrote:is it wrong to despair of people who seek and receive advice and the resolve to pop into their lbs anyway?
ERM... why do you despair about someone asking for advice on a forum, and then thinking/establishing that nothing works, so trying the lbs (who sold me , and installed the device) to see if they can help... :?:
I know my limits (which are pretty low
) and I know when not to mess with things that I know very little about, in fear of making the situation a lot worse...
Thx again everyone...0 -
OK, I have done the test and bizarrely enough, the gsc 10 flashes red when the 'cadence' sensor passes it, but 'nothing' when the sensor on the spokes passes it...???
But I was expecting the other way round as the spoke sensor is detecting my speed etc. Or maybe it isn't and the head unit is using GPS for it to work...????? But I'm assuming if the gsc 10 unit was dead, it would not flash red when the cadence sensor passed it???
Sorry folks... so many questions...0 -
Sorry, my earlier post was wrong, it is red for cadence and green for speed.
So the GSC10 seems to be seeing the sensor OK but not passing it to the 800 and the speed might not be getting picked up....
Obvious thing to try is switch the GPS off on the 800 and either lift the rear wheel off the floor and pedal, or just go for a ride, see if you get speed or distance being sent through (might have to press start on the 800 first)
If nothing is being sent then my first step would be do redo the pairing procedure on the 800 and if that didn't work, fit a new battery.
If speed and distance are still being sent with the GPS off but still no cadence then it does sound like it's broken I'm afraid, although it wouldn't hurt to try a new battery0 -
take out at least one variable, change the battery. leave the old battery out of the unit for a few minutes, then put in new battery.
check the test lights on the speed/cadence sensor, move unit until lights work reliably.
go into settings in the garmin and pair with the sensor.--
Burls Ti Tourer for Tarmac, Saracen aluminium full suss for trails0 -
Just a post to say thx all...the device on the chain stay was buggered and it has subsequently been sent back under warranty...
Cheers all0
