Can Help sort out elixir 5 brakes on a new bike?

odessouky
odessouky Posts: 264
edited July 2015 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi all

So, I received my anthem 27.5 last week. Everything was working perfect. It was an online order from Paul's cycles.

I haven't yet setup my front and rear suspension pressures to my weight. A topeak suspension pump is in the post somewhere on its way, but that is another issue for another thread.

I took my wheels off to weigh them a couple of days ago.

Ever since I put the rear wheel back, I've lost bite in my rear brake?

The front bakes lever bites normally midway, and is maximal just before touching the handle bar.

The rear brake now doesn't bite except when I'm a few mm from the handle bar, and it's never becomes maximal as I'm actually hitting the bars.

Wasn't like that before I took the wheels off to weigh them?

What could I have possibly done wrong to screw up the rear brake?

I was cycling with my daughter yesterday, and she suddenly stopped in front of me, and I crushed my middle left finger which was stuck between the handle bar and the brake lever?

I'm was left with a nasty bruise and cut on my finger?


Can someone please enlighten me?

Brakes are avid elixir 5.

Thnx

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    You have not put the heel back in the same place.

    Re seat it.

    Then adjust the reach to suit. And remember you will need to bed the brakes in every time you seat the wheels less to do on a through axel as there is better position control.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • odessouky
    odessouky Posts: 264
    You have not put the heel back in the same place.

    Re seat it.

    Then adjust the reach to suit. And remember you will need to bed the brakes in every time you seat the wheels less to do on a through axel as there is better position control.

    :oops:

    Many thanks for your reply....which seems too technical for me....!!

    :)

    Let me rephrase what you said, so I get this right?

    When you say "heel", do you mean the edge of actual brake rotor?

    But why would it make a difference if I did not put the wheel back in the same exact position? The wheel/brake rotors rotate anyways?

    By 'reseating and adjust reach to suit' do you mean I flip the bike over on seat and bars, undo the wheel, and try seating the rotor at different positions between the brake pads till I find the correct reach on the brake levers?

    About the through axle not needing this, is that why my front wheel is OK after removal because its a 15mm thru axle?

    Thanks, but sorry, don't get it?

    If the brake rotor is fixed, and non rotating, I would understand your post, but since it rotates with the wheels, don't understand what u mean by me not putting it back in the same place it was removed from?

    Sorry if I sound totally dumb?

    :mrgreen:
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Heel is wheel misspelt.

    If the wheel goes back in differently, you push one pad and piston into the calliper, but the other won't adjust out for a while, that leaves you with an over long lever travel.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • kirby700
    kirby700 Posts: 458
    Basically what you need to do is. ........

    loosen the caliper so it is loose on bolts.
    Spin the wheel
    Stop wheel with brake. Keep tight grip of it.
    tighten bolts on caliper alternating between both about a quarter turn each time.
    Fully tighten.
    spin wheel.. caliper should be centred with no rubbing.
    Test brakes. Off you pop.
    Oh remember to bed them in as there crap until you do.
    GIANT XTC 2.5
    BOARDMAN TEAM FS - NOW GONE
    NUKEPROOF MEGA TR 275 COMP
    YT INDUSTRIES CAPRA
  • kirby700
    kirby700 Posts: 458
    Oopy forgot to mention check wheel is in drop outs fully by undoing quick release with wheels on ground and re tighten.
    GIANT XTC 2.5
    BOARDMAN TEAM FS - NOW GONE
    NUKEPROOF MEGA TR 275 COMP
    YT INDUSTRIES CAPRA
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Centring the calliper wont help at all if the pads are slow to advance, he needs to advance the pads as per the Avid manual.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Antm81
    Antm81 Posts: 1,406
    The wheel shouldn't have moved either way in the dropouts, as it essentially uses a bolt through skewer (it's QR sized though)
  • kirby700
    kirby700 Posts: 458
    Centring the calliper wont help at all if the pads are slow to advance, he needs to advance the pads as per the Avid manual.


    I didn't realise Elxirs 5s had that feature, I thought it was only CR version.
    GIANT XTC 2.5
    BOARDMAN TEAM FS - NOW GONE
    NUKEPROOF MEGA TR 275 COMP
    YT INDUSTRIES CAPRA
  • kirby700
    kirby700 Posts: 458
    nope still cant see it
    GIANT XTC 2.5
    BOARDMAN TEAM FS - NOW GONE
    NUKEPROOF MEGA TR 275 COMP
    YT INDUSTRIES CAPRA
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    'Feature', no its a technique, go google it!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • kirby700
    kirby700 Posts: 458
    Well bugger me. What a load of messing about but if thats what needs to be done.

    I stand corrected.
    GIANT XTC 2.5
    BOARDMAN TEAM FS - NOW GONE
    NUKEPROOF MEGA TR 275 COMP
    YT INDUSTRIES CAPRA
  • odessouky
    odessouky Posts: 264
    thanks everyone for your posts.

    I am still not able to fix this issue?

    I still not get what went wrong?

    Took the wheel out, put it back in, and now I need to actually look at the manual and tweak the brakes etc?

    really confused?
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Looks like you do.
    And use the front brake to stop. It does most of the work.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Did you try advancing the pads then?
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • odessouky
    odessouky Posts: 264
    Did you try advancing the pads then?

    Hi Rookie

    I read your initial reply about advancing the brakes? Unfortunately I do not understand that?

    I don't have Avid's manual, and I'm afraid I'm not very good at bike mechanics, so am worried I'll cause more damage?

    I'm ok with changing a stem, handlebar etc...even fitted my ultegra brakes on my road bike, but with these disc brakes, it all seems so complicated?

    Is there a video or step by step DIY u can point me at please?

    Thnx
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Advancing the pads is easy, remove the wheel and gently squeeze the brake lever until the pads come out a bit further than they would do with the disc in the way, that way hopefully they won't retract too far, the. Refit the wheel.repeat as necesary.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • odessouky
    odessouky Posts: 264
    Advancing the pads is easy, remove the wheel and gently squeeze the brake lever until the pads come out a bit further than they would do with the disc in the way, that way hopefully they won't retract too far, the. Refit the wheel.repeat as necesary.

    so I did what you advised...

    phew...what a fiddly job. Even though the bike is on a stand, getting the wheel out and back in is an absolute pain!!

    Guess I need to improve my skills...

    Anyways...seems I squeezed the lever too much, and pads became too close t each other, so could not fit the wheel and rotor back in...

    Use a thin kitchen knife to gently move the pads away from each other...and managed to squeeze the rotor in...

    result...the lever feels much better know...but i think they r now too close...and when I spin the back wheel on the stand, it's definitely rubbing..??
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Rubbing is normal, as long as it slowing the wheel.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    They will self adjust. Just ride.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools