Where to start upgrading a New mountain bike

Smingino
Smingino Posts: 11
edited July 2015 in MTB beginners
Hi all!!

So I love cycling but know very little about it. I have dreamed of owning a bamboo bike for many years. While in Cambodia last year the opertunity came up to buy one and have it shipped back the UK. I got home to find my bike waiting for me. I love it, but well all the 'bits' on it are a bit Sh**
On my first ride the chain snapped. The breaks didnt break and its been nothing but hastle since day one.

I had new disk breaks put in and a new chain with a full service. But it just isnt right. It is such an effort to ride and the gears make noises and all sorts.

I don't want to give up on it, as much as my partner hates the bike and really wants me to sell it, I am very emotionaly attached and think it can be a really great bike with some upgrades.

Where should I start upgrading things? I cant afford to do it all in one go... I was thinking I should begin with the crank and gear set? Would this have the biggest impact on ridding?

Please help! I have no idea what to do, really dont want to have to sell it :(

Comments

  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,816
    This isn't upgrading, it's fixing it. Read up on http://wwww.parktool com on how to index the gears!

    No matter how cheap the parts, gears shouldn't grind, it's just not set up right, my town hack bike is 1x7 with a tourney rear mech and the shifts are just as effective and brisk as on my XT/XTR MTB.

    Brakes brake, parts break!

    Any chain can snap, sometimes the joining pin doesn't locate properly on even the best of bikes.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Unless it's just a rubbish bendy frame causing everything to flex and break..
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,816
    Trying to avoid saying that!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Smingino
    Smingino Posts: 11
    So the problem could be the frame? not the 'bits'

    When I took it to have new brakes put in I asked then to check that everything was put together correctly and aligned. They said they would and charged me for it.
    When I picked it up. It 'worked' but it has always been a bit too much effort to ride. I have been on bikes that feel like they take you. This one doesn't feel like that.
    Sorry I know this isn't very technical.
    The suspension on it is great and I love the handling. I can go down slops on woodland like I'm gliding. The problems begin the moment I have to start peddling.
  • mattyfez
    mattyfez Posts: 638
    I guess the obvious questions are how heavy is it and what brand model is it?
    I'm a noob myself but it seems bikes aimed at down hill would be a pig to ride as a daily hack.

    Edit, when you say bamboo bike, do you literally mean that the frame is made out of bamboo??
  • Smingino
    Smingino Posts: 11
    The bike its self is unbranded. It was handmade in Cambodia by a company called Mekong Creations
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Looks perfect for fixie cruising around London.

    Not sure about mountain biking.

    http://www.mekong-creations.org/products/bamboo/bamboo-bikes.html
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,816
    Should be fine for cruising around.

    An effort to ride could be
    weight (but even if the frame is twice the weight of aluminium it still only adding 2 Kg to a total of circa 13-15Kg
    Tyres (high rolling resistance tread or low pressures)
    Brakes binding
    Wheel bearings or bottom bracket bearings shot or too much preload
    Wrong gear selection!

    Grinding could mean almost anything but just sounds like a poor setup, spin the cranks by hand and find out where the noise is coming from, chain dragging on the front mech is a common one. Is it single speed, if so what gearing, many Asian market single speeds have nodder gearing and is far to long geared.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Smingino
    Smingino Posts: 11
    The bike I bought is this one:

    https://picasaweb.google.com/104254535639532934811/MountainBikes?gsessionid=GK38M1avhlWr4_zzs5aCNQ#5987991198775215090

    I think I will have to take it back to a 'bike mechanic' the first place I took it clearly didnt check all that stuff when they said they would.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Or
    [url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19637003#p19637003]cooldad[/url] wrote:
    Unless it's just a rubbish bendy frame causing everything to flex and break..

    Looks like it's all taped together and covered in mastic.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,816
    Still think it just needs a proper setting up.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Giraffoto
    Giraffoto Posts: 2,078
    If the bike is too much effort to ride, and it doesn't have any excessive mechanical drag (everything spins freely, nothing rubbing, grabbing or binding) it's either the wrong size for you, too heavy or absorbing all of your effort somewhere. Only you can decide the first two, for the third look at underinflated tyres or (sorry to mention it) an excessively flexible frame
    Specialized Roubaix Elite 2015
    XM-057 rigid 29er

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