Can't trace a clicking sound
I have a 18 month old Lynskey with Ultegra 6800.
A few weeks ago it developed a combination of creaks and clicks. I have systematically tried to track the noises down and have done the following:
Removed and replaced the front wheel,
Loosened, realigned and tightened the angle of the bars (4 bolts on end of stem),
Loosened and tightened (and slackened back a bit) headset bolt,
Tightened all bottle cage bolts,
Removed cranks,
Removed, inspected, cleaned, greased and tightened the bottom bracket (BB90) using a torque wrench,
Replace cranks and torqued bolts,
Removed spindle from pedals, inspected, added some greased and tightened,
Loosened and tightened seat clamp bolt,
Removed rear wheel, loosened cassette lockring and tightened.
Many of the creaks have gone but I still have a double click. It doesn't happen when seated but when I am out the saddle I get the click both sides just as the pedal is approaching the bottom of the downstroke - around 4-5 o'clock. It is a double click.
Any suggestions as to its cause or if I have missed anything?
A few weeks ago it developed a combination of creaks and clicks. I have systematically tried to track the noises down and have done the following:
Removed and replaced the front wheel,
Loosened, realigned and tightened the angle of the bars (4 bolts on end of stem),
Loosened and tightened (and slackened back a bit) headset bolt,
Tightened all bottle cage bolts,
Removed cranks,
Removed, inspected, cleaned, greased and tightened the bottom bracket (BB90) using a torque wrench,
Replace cranks and torqued bolts,
Removed spindle from pedals, inspected, added some greased and tightened,
Loosened and tightened seat clamp bolt,
Removed rear wheel, loosened cassette lockring and tightened.
Many of the creaks have gone but I still have a double click. It doesn't happen when seated but when I am out the saddle I get the click both sides just as the pedal is approaching the bottom of the downstroke - around 4-5 o'clock. It is a double click.
Any suggestions as to its cause or if I have missed anything?
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Comments
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You sure you've eliminated all play from the headset without overtightening?
Are your QR levers done up really tight? I've silenced creaks a couple of times by greasing and tightening QRs. Are they the closed cam Shimano / Campag type QRs or lightweight external cam ones. The former I find can exert much higher clamping forces...0 -
I have a 18 month old Lynskey with Ultegra 6800.
A few weeks ago it developed a combination of creaks and clicks. I have systematically tried to track the noises down and have done the following:
Removed and replaced the front wheel,
Loosened, realigned and tightened the angle of the bars (4 bolts on end of stem),
Loosened and tightened (and slackened back a bit) headset bolt,
Tightened all bottle cage bolts,
Removed cranks,
Removed, inspected, cleaned, greased and tightened the bottom bracket (BB90) using a torque wrench,
Replace cranks and torqued bolts,
Removed spindle from pedals, inspected, added some greased and tightened,
Loosened and tightened seat clamp bolt,
Removed rear wheel, loosened cassette lockring and tightened.
Many of the creaks have gone but I still have a double click. It doesn't happen when seated but when I am out the saddle I get the click both sides just as the pedal is approaching the bottom of the downstroke - around 4-5 o'clock. It is a double click.
Any suggestions as to its cause or if I have missed anything?
Chainring bolts......0 -
Two good suggestions. I'll try them tonight. Thank guys.
The QR levers are supposedly Mavic but are unbranded. They came with a set of Kyserium wheels.0 -
Check and re-tighten if necessary, your chain ring bolts.0
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Cleat/pedal interface or cleat retention spring/blade?FFS! Harden up and grow a pair
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have you checked all the nipples on the spokes are tight?
i had a "click" i could not find after checking everything.
suddenly the click became very loud, then BANG, a broken spoke and buckled wheel.0 -
Cleat/pedal interface or cleat retention spring/blade?
I can swap the pedals from the winter bike and compare. I have no noise issues with that bike.0 -
Cleat/pedal interface or cleat retention spring/blade?
I hope not! That will be the last check as I tend to put wheels into the LBS.0 -
Two things to check:
1. Do the valve stems have room for a bit of play? if so they can click as the tyre deforms on each rotation.
2. Check all the plates on both sides of your chain. A quick - link type join may be that bit wider than the rest of the chain and this will show as wear from it's rubs against the dérailleur cage0 -
Hi,
I was recently struggling to trace a clicking noise, as bike frames are hollow sounds can travel. I traced it to the headset by following these steps:
1. Take feet off pedals; if clicking persists it's not in the crank.
2. Stand off the seat; if clicking persists it's not the seat post.
I disassembled my headset and the clicking was due to a few of grains of sand that had somehow made their way into the bottom bearing area. They had not made it into the bearing but they were trapped between the forks and the frame. Some paint had been abraded away by thier presence. I cleaned everything fully, re greased and re assembled everything and the annoying clicking sound was eliminated.0 -
Thanks Guys.
I'll check the easy stuff tonight but will leave the headset to the weekend when I have more time.
This all goes to show that you NEED at least two bikes just to cover times like this ;-)0 -
I would definitely have the headset apart thoroughly, take the races out of the frame and grease up everything , I had a creak on my Venge after just 50 miles which I was sure was coming from the BB and was just about to take that apart , but did the headset first and hey presto I got a quiet bike that's still quiet 1750 miles later, the headset races were bone dry in the frame and that's what caused the creak whenever I got out the saddle.0
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I was going mad trying to find a clicking noice about 3-4 o'clock on the downstroke of right hand pedal - only when standing under high load. It started after I upgraded BB, chainring, cassette and chain to Ultegra (except the chain which is KMC). Stripped, greased and retried everything but was only ever temporarily fixed and came back. In the end, I *think* the cure last week was tightening the chainring bolts way more than the shimano manual said to - they just didnt seem tight at the stated torque. Has been silent for a week after six weeks of clicking and man it is bliss!!!
* I say 'think' because at the same time I also stripped, cleaned and remounted the cassette, greased the rear wheel dropouts and tried a different skewer - I dont think it was any of these other things that fixed it though.0 -
Had a similar problem with a Bianchi carbon frame and FSA bottom bracket and chainring. Thought it was bottom bracket wear so replaced bottom bracket and stripped down and rebuilt crankset. Disappointingly it had no affect.
Then thought it was rear wheel bearings in Campagnolo Eurus wheels. At this stage gave up and took bike to local LBS.
Charge was £25.00 to strip and refit bottom bracket and REPLACE all the set bolts that hold the chainrings together. Result no creak and a bike that is now great to ride.
This goes to show that, although I used a torque wrench to tighten everything to manufacturers spec. a bit of local knowledge goes along way in these situations.
For me it was £25.00 well spent.0 -
I tightened up my chain ring bolts on my Ultegra chainset tighter than I should have and took the head completely off one. It was a Torx30 head. Really soft, be careful not do the same.0
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I tightened up my chain ring bolts on my Ultegra chainset tighter than I should have and took the head completely off one. It was a Torx30 head. Really soft, be careful not do the same.
Too late. I tried to tighten the first bolt with an allan key and stripped the head. Teach me to get a proper workshop lamp!!
Finally tracked the creak/click to either the headset or the cleats. Stripped the fork out, cleaned and greased. Sprayed cleats with WD40.
Silence.
Thanks everyone.0
