Snapped mech - just swap a new one in? or likely more work?
apreading
Posts: 4,535
My son snapped his rear dropout/hanger this morning on a branch.
Thought I would just dump it off at LBS and let them sort it, but my normal one was shut so as I was passing near Evans on the way home thought I would try there.
The guy in the workshop said it would also need a new mech and chain - without even looking at anything(!). I said "really? they look OK?", he said "the chain is all bent", I said "no, its just curled up" and unwound it so it was clearly straight, he then got a chain measuring tool out and finally looked at it, told me that it not only needed a new chain but cassette too... And that 9 times out of 10 the mech needs replacing too, even if it looks straight.
So two things:
1) NEVER going back to Evans for workshop as they tried to sell me probably £200 worth of stuff & labour without even looking/testing, when all of it looks OK. I measured the chain back at home and its not stretched and I know the bike's mileage and it damn well shouldnt be and the mech looks completely undamaged and straight. Not only that, when I got home and looked up the part, he tried to sell me a £20 third party hanger when the specialized OEM one is less than £10 on their own (Evans) website!
2) If the mech is undamaged, is it just a case of bolt on the new hanger and good to go? Will the hanger need aligning etc? I was unsure whether I would be able to get the old hanger off without a vice to grip the broken part but actually it was really easy when I tried - so think I will do the job myself if simple.
I think I may need a new gear cable as the old one has lost the crimp at the end and is a bit frayed but if I can get it running first with current parts that would be a bonus!!!
Any thoughts/help/advice appreciated.
Thought I would just dump it off at LBS and let them sort it, but my normal one was shut so as I was passing near Evans on the way home thought I would try there.
The guy in the workshop said it would also need a new mech and chain - without even looking at anything(!). I said "really? they look OK?", he said "the chain is all bent", I said "no, its just curled up" and unwound it so it was clearly straight, he then got a chain measuring tool out and finally looked at it, told me that it not only needed a new chain but cassette too... And that 9 times out of 10 the mech needs replacing too, even if it looks straight.
So two things:
1) NEVER going back to Evans for workshop as they tried to sell me probably £200 worth of stuff & labour without even looking/testing, when all of it looks OK. I measured the chain back at home and its not stretched and I know the bike's mileage and it damn well shouldnt be and the mech looks completely undamaged and straight. Not only that, when I got home and looked up the part, he tried to sell me a £20 third party hanger when the specialized OEM one is less than £10 on their own (Evans) website!
2) If the mech is undamaged, is it just a case of bolt on the new hanger and good to go? Will the hanger need aligning etc? I was unsure whether I would be able to get the old hanger off without a vice to grip the broken part but actually it was really easy when I tried - so think I will do the job myself if simple.
I think I may need a new gear cable as the old one has lost the crimp at the end and is a bit frayed but if I can get it running first with current parts that would be a bonus!!!
Any thoughts/help/advice appreciated.
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Comments
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Just bolt it on, probably need to check the indexing and you should be fine.I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools0 -
If only the hanger is damaged, it should be a simple swap job. However - if the person in Evans did measure your chain and said it needed changing, then i recommend that you do get your local LBS to at least check it - chains do stretch and if they stretch too far then it can go on to damage other components (cassette, chainrings, jockey wheels) - so worth having it checked.
I bent my hanger a couple of months ago (too far to bend back), and I just ordered another one off ebay and fit it myself.. I carry a spare on now though
bob6397Boardman HT Team - Hardtail
Rose Pro-SL 2000 - Roadie0 -
1) I'm breaking thos down into a few parts.
a) The £200 worth of labour and parts will have a bit of reasoning, but not necessarily the best option. Basically if you get chain stretch it will ruin the cassette and chain rings, but you won't feel the damage until they're well and truly destroyed. But it also means that when you replace them they all need replacing. What happens is the gaps on the chainring etc get bigger by the teeth getting smaller. And that means that your new chain won't be the right size.
b) Yes buying in store at Evans cycles will normally be more expensive in my experience, even compared to their website. My motto, never pay in there until you've checked their website cost. My fail was spending £125 on pedals and shoes that they had on their website for under £90.
2) If it is undamaged then yes, you put it on and go, but you will have to index the mech when you do the cable back up. There is a Global Cycling Network video about it.
Cable: If you have enough length before the fraying you won't need a new cable, but if you get them on wiggle (lifeline range) they're so cheap I'd just get some new ones and save yourself a job in a few months time. The other advantage is that you'd know that its not the cable causing any problems if this doesn't work.Specialized Allez Sport 20130 -
I measured the chain at home - its not stretched and the bike has done very few miles so would have been unlikely anyway.
He was basically a con-man - he told me it would need new parts without looking, then when questioned cited probability of 9/10 for the mech (so was telling me to replace without checking/testing), which contradicts most of what I find on the net and that the chain was twisted, then when I showed it wasnt pretended it had stretched by falsifying the measurement.
I have ordered the £9.99 new mech (and a spare) and will fit myself and if anything is not then right deal with it as required, rather than just assume to junk the entire drivetrain and buy new...0 -
I had the whole lot replaced in Halfords for £91... And it was a Speccy, Evans seem a tad expense.0
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20 quid and 5 mins work to fit a new mech hanger. You'll have to buy the part anyway so its worth trying it out yourself first.
I always use gearmechhanger.com .... Not the cheapest but quality parts and next day delivery0 -
Cleaned up and serviced all the rest of the drivetrain - all ready to fit the new hanger when it arrives, hopefully on tuesday, Fingers crossed everything else OK. If I need to replace the mech is it worth upgrading from the orginal SRAM x4 to X5 or X7 or even X9? Its 8 speed but sounds like that doesnt matter which SRAM mech is used.0
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Don't assume that a new hanger will bolt on dead straight.
In 5 years in the workshop, I have seen a single example of a new bike with a straight hanger out of the box.
Assume it will need to be aligned and get yourself an alignment tool, the best investment any home mechanic can make.
As dropouts wear, all hangers need to be realigned.
Your chain will more likely than not have some amount of twist in it.
You won't be able to tell until you can revolve the pedals and watch it.
It will be able to be straightened, but may or may not be time consuming depending on the extent.0 -
OK - been reading up on hanger alignment - yet another blot on the copybook of the Evans 'mechanic' as I asked him about this and he said, no it should just bolt on and be good to go...!
I have ordered the part - may as well fit it, see what I have got and then take it to my proper LBS for them to replace the gear cable, check the alignment and set the derailleur (assuming it doesnt need replacing, in which case I will just buy whatever SRAM derailleur they have and get them to fit that too). My proper LBS is NOT Evans by the way...0 -
Sounds like fairly bad advice from Evans, out of interest which one?
The sheffield one has been great for any servicing I have needed (not a lot), LBS wanted more money and 3 week wait.0 -
Yeah - the 3 week wait was always my problem with LBS - not only that but you had to leave your bike there for the whole 3 weeks waiting, which was a real problem when I only had one bike! Hence I have learned an awful lot myself and I would probably attempt this but the alignment tool is not cheap and I have actually got on better with LBS more recently.
I actiually serviced a cup and cone wheel hub for the first time this weekend (practicing on an old wheel which I dont care about)!!! Only suspension forks still seem a step too far for me now. Oh, and I can never get hollowtech II bottom brackets out for some reason (and yes, I am trying to turn them the right way).
Not sure if I should mention the branch of Evans here, but they are in the Thames Valley area, so not yours. I am sure they have good guys as well as bad ones - just like any industry, but not sure I will be going back.0 -
I've replaced plenty of hangers and never needed to align a new one.
Always been bolt on, index and go.I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools0 -
Oh, and I can never get hollowtech II bottom brackets out for some reason (and yes, I am trying to turn them the right way).
Why not?0 -
Oh, and I can never get hollowtech II bottom brackets out for some reason (and yes, I am trying to turn them the right way).
Why not?
I dont know - when I wanted to replace mine, it seemes stuck solid to me, so I took it to LBS who did it there and then. But the new one seems to be clicking under load when standing on hills (either that or the new chainset or new pedals although I have changed the pedals for another set and greased everything on the chainset twice) - I wanted to try removing the new BB to clean and regrease but I cant get that off either... Maybe I need a better BB tool or just to be brave and/or hit it with a hammer but it seems stuck solid to me!0 -
Check your chain ring bolts. Also check for a frame crack around the BB.
No need to a hammer, just a bigger lever. I use a old seat post over the end of my Shimano HT tool as it's a bit short.0 -
Did all the chain ring bolts and the points where they mount on the cranks. Funny thing is, when I strip down and regrease what I can, both times the click seemed to go away for the first 50 miles or so, but then came back. I also find that it doesnt click on every hill... It also went away for a while when I swapped the new pedals for another set of new ones. Lastly, and this is the most hopeful thing, I wore my old SPD shoes for the commute this morning and it didnt click at all - so maybe I have a worn cleat on the others? Or maybe I just got lucky for the 4.5 miles this morning. Havent worn these shoes for ages as they are soft 'bike & hike' shoes rather than my stiff Shimano ones. Would be great if that were the reason...!0
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Oh well - clicking again tonight, so its not the cleats. Think I am gonna have to get LBS to redo the Bottom Bracket, check its well greased and check it doesnt need facing etc.
Had a look and cant see a crack in the BB shell - hope its NOT that!!!0 -
I've replaced plenty of hangers and never needed to align a new one.
Always been bolt on, index and go.
Same here. Have fitted one to each of our 3 bikes in the last year0 -
Whilst I haven't had to do this, isn't the whole purpose of replaceable mech hangers that they are.... you know.... replaceable?
Surely they should bend/snap before the frame bends by design?0 -
Whilst I haven't had to do this, isn't the whole purpose of replaceable mech hangers that they are.... you know.... replaceable?
Surely they should bend/snap before the frame bends by design?
Yeah.. that's the whole point of having one... The (relatively) cheap hanger bends to prevent damage to more expensive things like frames/derailleurs..
bob6397Boardman HT Team - Hardtail
Rose Pro-SL 2000 - Roadie0 -
They also allow cheaper frame construction with not so great alignment knowing that the hanger can be set right and erase all sins.
Again, if your frame has had wheels in and out of the frame, there will be wear on the dropout on the exit side. You bend the hanger to make up for this.
This is on top of out of straight frames from the factory.
It sounds like you guys have never had a truly straight hanger ever.0 -
Nonesense. Replaceable hangers came with aluminium frames that either snapped when bent, or when straightening them.
Steel can be manhandled a lot more.
All of my bikes, steel and aluminium, are properly indexed, so I can't see that getting OCD about the hanger is really worth it.I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools0 -
No, cheap alloy frames have a cheap stamped dropout with integral hanger (yuck) step forward Giant you are named and shamed, a removable hanger costs a LOT more to make!They also allow cheaper frame construction with not so great alignment knowing that the hanger can be set right and erase all sins.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
Oh well - clicking again tonight, so its not the cleats. Think I am gonna have to get LBS to redo the Bottom Bracket, check its well greased and check it doesnt need facing etc.
Had a look and cant see a crack in the BB shell - hope its NOT that!!!
Bummer - took into my (proper) LBS today and they had a look, removed, cleaned and replaced the BB but its stick clicking...
Dont know what to do next - think maybe I will try a third set of pedals as I have some on my other bike that I know dont click and then maybe a new chain(?) and perhaps swap the rear wheel for another one I have. After that the only things I can think to try is another bottom bracket (perhaps the BB is faulty or the bearings?) or swap back to my old chainset...
Loving my proper LBS though - when I asked how much I owed them today, they said not to worry about it - FREE!!! Somehow I seem to have gone from finding them difficult and unresponsive to way more helpful than you could possible ask for! Pehaps they have got to know and recognise me as I run a fleet of some 7 bikes for the family now...0 -
New hanger hopefully arriving for my son's bike tomorrow, but away with work so will know in a few days about that. Mechanic in LBS today confirmed that any SRAM mech that is less than 10 speed should work if I need to replace and want to upgrade to something like X9. So much better than the Evans experience!0
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Well new mech fitted - strangely enough the front derailleur needed some adjustment in its angle, maybe it got bashed and twisted round the seatpost slightly, unsurprisingly I had to make a slight tweak to the adjusters for the rear mech but that was it - good as new, at least I think so - proper test at the weekend!
So a £10 fix in the end - the part did its job and protected everything else which would have cost more money.
And now I have a spare hanger that will fit either my son or daughters bikes or the rockhopper I just bought, should something like this happen again.0
