Upgrades for my Specialized Rockhopper Expert 2015

jimbob2601
jimbob2601 Posts: 5
edited June 2015 in MTB general
Dear everyone :D

A few months ago I got a new Specialized Rockhopper Expert for my birthday, and so far the bike has been really good, however there are a few things that I was wondering about regarding how I can make the bike better to ride on.

On some weekends me and my friend go riding either at Aston Hill or at a small wood near our houses, and although my bike is good, I can't seem to get much air, or even do some of the jumps and drops at the two places.

Although clearly the Cross-Country based design of my bike will not be able to do the huge drops and jumps on some of the bigger trails at Aston Hill, what upgrades should I make to my bike to make it more easier to learn on when I go riding?

My budget for upgrades is around £100, so new forks etc. are out of the question.

link to my bike : http://www.evanscycles.com/products/specialized/rockhopper-expert-2015-29er-mountain-bike-ec070634

Cheers :lol:

Comments

  • Clockworkmark31
    Clockworkmark31 Posts: 1,053
    Don't know how hard it is to jump a 29er, I have gone from a 26er to 650b and I think it is a touch harder more weight etc.

    But maybe just a reevaluation of your skills is needed. I think for the money you are wanting to spend, a skills coaching course would be the better option.
  • k thanks :)

    I'm going to join a skills coaching thing in the summer (which is free), so coaching isn't a problem, it's just what upgrades I need to get to make my bike better.
  • rockmonkeysc
    rockmonkeysc Posts: 14,774
    There's not really anything you can do to make the Rockhopper jump better, thats just not something your bike is ever going to be good at. The frame is just all wrong for jumping.
    Unless of course you change the frame!
    29ers can jump perfectly well, but the right sort of 29er.
  • Clockworkmark31
    Clockworkmark31 Posts: 1,053
    There's not really anything you can do to make the Rockhopper jump better, thats just not something your bike is ever going to be good at. The frame is just all wrong for jumping.
    Unless of course you change the frame!
    29ers can jump perfectly well, but the right sort of 29er.

    Wtihout getting too in to it, I am curious as bike geometry is like black magic to me. If you were jumping would a lower BB height and slack head angle be better? If so I think I kind of get it.
  • ArniSig
    ArniSig Posts: 10
    I got the 2015 Rockhopper Pro Evo 650b and I'm really loving the dropper post.. something to consider.. Gives me a lot of confidence on drops being able to drop the seat and get my hips backwards.
  • rockmonkeysc
    rockmonkeysc Posts: 14,774
    There's not really anything you can do to make the Rockhopper jump better, thats just not something your bike is ever going to be good at. The frame is just all wrong for jumping.
    Unless of course you change the frame!
    29ers can jump perfectly well, but the right sort of 29er.

    Wtihout getting too in to it, I am curious as bike geometry is like black magic to me. If you were jumping would a lower BB height and slack head angle be better? If so I think I kind of get it.

    Yes and a lower & longer top tube and shorter stem (combined with long top tube)
  • Clockworkmark31
    Clockworkmark31 Posts: 1,053
    There's not really anything you can do to make the Rockhopper jump better, thats just not something your bike is ever going to be good at. The frame is just all wrong for jumping.
    Unless of course you change the frame!
    29ers can jump perfectly well, but the right sort of 29er.

    Wtihout getting too in to it, I am curious as bike geometry is like black magic to me. If you were jumping would a lower BB height and slack head angle be better? If so I think I kind of get it.

    Yes and a lower & longer top tube and shorter stem (combined with long top tube)

    Thanks kind of get it now, are the geometry changes so you can roll in to a jump more easy and if you are doing some descents a lower point of gravity is more stable or confidence inspiring?
  • Clockworkmark31
    Clockworkmark31 Posts: 1,053
    Also to the OP, I can talk about upgrades on my old rockhopper but I wasn't aiming for air time. The biggest upgrades for me were wheels, suspension and brakes. I think the brakes were the best upgrade Shimano XT-M785 with the 180mm icetech rotors. More confidence to push harder and a grin inducing rate of deceleration when you really grab them.
  • rockmonkeysc
    rockmonkeysc Posts: 14,774
    There's not really anything you can do to make the Rockhopper jump better, thats just not something your bike is ever going to be good at. The frame is just all wrong for jumping.
    Unless of course you change the frame!
    29ers can jump perfectly well, but the right sort of 29er.

    Wtihout getting too in to it, I am curious as bike geometry is like black magic to me. If you were jumping would a lower BB height and slack head angle be better? If so I think I kind of get it.

    Yes and a lower & longer top tube and shorter stem (combined with long top tube)

    Thanks kind of get it now, are the geometry changes so you can roll in to a jump more easy and if you are doing some descents a lower point of gravity is more stable or confidence inspiring?

    Low top tube stops you destroying your plums and gives you room to get your weight where you need it. You also need to get low on the approach to the lip to get a good pop off it. The slack geometry makes for much better stability and a margin for error.
  • Clockworkmark31
    Clockworkmark31 Posts: 1,053
    There's not really anything you can do to make the Rockhopper jump better, thats just not something your bike is ever going to be good at. The frame is just all wrong for jumping.
    Unless of course you change the frame!
    29ers can jump perfectly well, but the right sort of 29er.

    Wtihout getting too in to it, I am curious as bike geometry is like black magic to me. If you were jumping would a lower BB height and slack head angle be better? If so I think I kind of get it.

    Yes and a lower & longer top tube and shorter stem (combined with long top tube)

    Thanks kind of get it now, are the geometry changes so you can roll in to a jump more easy and if you are doing some descents a lower point of gravity is more stable or confidence inspiring?

    Low top tube stops you destroying your plums and gives you room to get your weight where you need it. You also need to get low on the approach to the lip to get a good pop off it. The slack geometry makes for much better stability and a margin for error.

    Thanks makes sense now, so tighter geometry would be better for fast flowing XC kind of like point the wheel and go.
  • So there aren't really any upgrades I can make to the bike to make it better on jumps and drops? (apart from actually getting a new bike).

    Also, could my bike thicker tires onto it? Currently it runs the stock 2.1 tires, but my friend said that they were too thin. Should (or can) I change them to a thicker option?
  • Clockworkmark31
    Clockworkmark31 Posts: 1,053
    So there aren't really any upgrades I can make to the bike to make it better on jumps and drops? (apart from actually getting a new bike).

    Also, could my bike thicker tires onto it? Currently it runs the stock 2.1 tires, but my friend said that they were too thin. Should (or can) I change them to a thicker option?

    Can't speak about airtime as it's not my thing but I am getting more curious.

    If I understand it correct, maybe some other people can comment with more knowledge.

    How about an adjustable headset? You could slacken headset angle that should lower BB height etc, sounds good in principle. But if it works I have no idea, maybe an area for exploration.
  • Antm81
    Antm81 Posts: 1,406
    So there aren't really any upgrades I can make to the bike to make it better on jumps and drops? (apart from actually getting a new bike).

    Also, could my bike thicker tires onto it? Currently it runs the stock 2.1 tires, but my friend said that they were too thin. Should (or can) I change them to a thicker option?

    Can't speak about airtime as it's not my thing but I am getting more curious.

    If I understand it correct, maybe some other people can comment with more knowledge.

    How about an adjustable headset? You could slacken headset angle that should lower BB height etc, sounds good in principle. But if it works I have no idea, maybe an area for exploration.

    You can already get headsets that although not adjustable as such, are used to alter the head angle

    http://www.canecreek.com/products/headsets/angleset
  • Clockworkmark31
    Clockworkmark31 Posts: 1,053
    So there aren't really any upgrades I can make to the bike to make it better on jumps and drops? (apart from actually getting a new bike).

    Also, could my bike thicker tires onto it? Currently it runs the stock 2.1 tires, but my friend said that they were too thin. Should (or can) I change them to a thicker option?

    Can't speak about airtime as it's not my thing but I am getting more curious.

    If I understand it correct, maybe some other people can comment with more knowledge.

    How about an adjustable headset? You could slacken headset angle that should lower BB height etc, sounds good in principle. But if it works I have no idea, maybe an area for exploration.

    You can already get headsets that although not adjustable as such, are used to alter the head angle

    http://www.canecreek.com/products/headsets/angleset

    I am aware that you can buy them, but I don't know if they would help, was just throwing an idea out to the OP.
  • Antm81
    Antm81 Posts: 1,406
    My bad, thought you were suggesting someone should design one.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    The 'hopper is just wrong for what the OP wants to do with it, you can't make a silk purse out of a sows ear, or a hard hitting trail bike from an XC bike, minor tweaks like that won't sort it and will spoil it for its intended usage as well.

    New bike or just accept it's limitations.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Although clearly the Rockhopper isn't going to be as good as at down hill as a downhill bike, or jump as high as a jump bike, but (for example) if I get a shorter stem or different forks will that make it a little easier to do jumps and drops?
    Also, could my bike fit a wider tire as apparently 2.1 is not very good for grip and stability etc.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    You can fit bits to make it more trail orientated without harming it, yes, slightly wider bars and shorte stem and yes that tyre is narrow, something like a 2.25 will give grip without harming the character, but you are better off making sure it's a decent tyre than fitting a wider rubbish one!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Clockworkmark31
    Clockworkmark31 Posts: 1,053
    Without getting too much in to detail, how does an XC HT differ from something like an On One 456 or a trail orientated HT. You can put the same parts on either of them. Does the geometry play that much of a part or is it skills?
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Yes, geometry affects the character, mostly the components affect the quality of the character.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • rockmonkeysc
    rockmonkeysc Posts: 14,774
    Without getting too much in to detail, how does an XC HT differ from something like an On One 456 or a trail orientated HT. You can put the same parts on either of them. Does the geometry play that much of a part or is it skills?

    The 456 has a slacker head angle for better stability, longer top tube to allow a shorter stem for the same reach to improve steering, a lower bottom bracket for better high speed cornering and a lower top tube to give you more room to move. It's also a much stronger (and heavier) frame.
    While the 456 will take a 100mm fork like the Rockhopper it works best with a 140mm fork which is what On One fit to complete builds.
    Skills also play a big part but there's a limit. I am comfortable jumping 30 foot gaps on my Transition Scout trail bike but I would have never have even tried it on my old Giant Anthem because it's way too twitchy and I would almost certainly loose my plums by smashing them on the top tube. The Scout has similar geometry to the 456 and the Anthem is similar to your Rockhopper.
  • Clockworkmark31
    Clockworkmark31 Posts: 1,053
    My rockhopper went to the thieves in the skies 8 months ago (would love to see it for sale on some form of site but it has never happened, makes me wonder what happens with stolen bikes).

    But I am curious at the differences or understanding of geometry, on my ex rockhopper I fitted reba dual airs and had 120mm travel, wide bar short stem etc etc. Just wondering how that frame would differ to a "trail frame" if you had the same components.

    I know geometry will come in to play at a certain point, just didn't realize a xc ht frame and trail ht frame were so different.
  • rockmonkeysc
    rockmonkeysc Posts: 14,774
    I explained in my post above yours the difference between a Rockhopper geometry and a typical trail bikes geometry. Putting on a 20mm longer fork makes it roughly one degree slacker, still quite a bit steeper than a decent hardcore hardtail like the 456.
    You can fit an angleset to get it closer but it will still not be quite there. You can't stretch and lower the top tube and you can't drop the bottom bracket.