Tubeless tyre leaking through valve stem
The ball ache continues. Finally got all the parts together to do the tubeless setup on Pacenti SL23 wheels. Got them all setup last night. Setup is
- Pacenti SL23
-Stans Notubes valves
- 2 wraps yellow 21mm tape
- Stans Notubes sealant
- Schwalbe One 25c tubeless tyres
The front tyre went to together fine, getting the tyres to bead was easier than expected but the rear is leaking through the valve stem. I poked a tiny hole in the tape with a screwdriver so I don't think this is the issue. I could tell it was leaking when I got the tyre on and inflated but hoped that adding the sealant would stop it. Any advice? Add another ounce of sealant? Faulty valve?
- Pacenti SL23
-Stans Notubes valves
- 2 wraps yellow 21mm tape
- Stans Notubes sealant
- Schwalbe One 25c tubeless tyres
The front tyre went to together fine, getting the tyres to bead was easier than expected but the rear is leaking through the valve stem. I poked a tiny hole in the tape with a screwdriver so I don't think this is the issue. I could tell it was leaking when I got the tyre on and inflated but hoped that adding the sealant would stop it. Any advice? Add another ounce of sealant? Faulty valve?
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Comments
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I used the Stans kit on my MTB a couple of weeks back, one wheel went together fine but the other like you say leaked through the valve hole.
I re-taped the rim and made a small hole like you say but upon pumping with air to seat the bead it still leaked.
I filled it with the sealant anyway and after a little shaking it magically stopped!
The sealant is supposed to seal up to 1/4" holes, which is pretty big so for it not to be sealing on your rim is an odd one.My winter bike is exactly the same as my summer bike,,, but dirty...0 -
Sounds like same issue. Pretty common on the MTB forums I've found doing a google search on the issue.
I think I'll try using another ounce of sealant and see if it manages to seal up. Otherwise I'll have to take apart and retry. I'm assuming there must be some air getting under the tape and into the rim void and its leaking through the valve as that its easiest escape point. Maybe nicked it with the tyre lever
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Is the valve tightened up as far as it will go? With mine I pull and wiggle the valve as much as possible to enable the retaining nut be be fully tightened. It needs to be much tighter than you'd go with the valve on a regular inner tube.0
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Could it be that the hole is actually too small. Maybe if it's too small, the tapered rubber bit won't seat properly. I always cut an X in the tape, which allows proper seating, and always (kiss of death??) seems to work. Just a thought.0
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Araldite.
Bollox.
Best is to cut a cross at the valve hole with the tip of a craft knife, then as mentioned upthread really screw down the valve nut. It can always be backed off a bit after it's all sealed up. I also spend quite a while shaking and bouncing the wheel to splash the sealant about, and it usually takes 2-3 days before it's fully sealed.0 -
How soon are you noticing the leak and how long does it continue for?
Is it the valve nipple or around the base of the valve?
I have just finished doing my MTB tyres. Had some escaping out of the valve initially but after a lot of shaking, turning and waiting (and re-inflating), it eventually stopped.
Considering the solution is supposed to fill holes, the last thing i'd is go poking around and taking it apart - unless it didn't stop and the entire solution escaped.0 -
Araldite.
Bollox.
Best is to cut a cross at the valve hole with the tip of a craft knife, then as mentioned upthread really screw down the valve nut. It can always be backed off a bit after it's all sealed up. I also spend quite a while shaking and bouncing the wheel to splash the sealant about, and it usually takes 2-3 days before it's fully sealed.
It WAS a joke. Maybe I should have added a smiley- - - - - - - - - -
On Strava.{/url}0
