headset tightness question

old_T
old_T Posts: 3
edited June 2015 in MTB beginners
I'm a beginner and I've been reading much into the headset/handlebars and how to adjust. I have adjusted mine accordingly, i.e. tight, but not too tight on the stem bolt, making sure to loosen the clamp bolts first. However, after I have tightened the stem bolt and then tightened the clamp bolts back up, I can still straddle the front wheel and rotate the handlebars with a bit of force. Is this still supposed to happen once I have it tightened or should the handlebars not rotate independently of the wheel/fork no matter hard you try? It's a star nut anchor by the way. Also, this seems to happen no matter how tight I adjust i.e. I've tightened to where the handlebars no longer swing freely, which what from I've read is definitely too tight, yet even then I could still straddle the front wheel and rotate the handlebars as I said before. Is that normal? Thanks for some insight on this.

Comments

  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    It's the clamp bolts on the stem round the steerer that stop the bars moving relative to the forks, not the top bolt, that just preloads the bearings and once the stem clamp bolts are done up can be undone and removed completely with no I'll effect, have a look at it and it's obvious how it works.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • old_T
    old_T Posts: 3
    It's the clamp bolts on the stem round the steerer that stop the bars moving relative to the forks, not the top bolt

    Thank you, so that is exactly what I thought just from looking at the headset and using common sense, but what I've been reading online everything seemed to indicate otherwise. However, my main problem/question isn't totally solved by that because I've already tried to tighten the clamp bolts a lot and still it seems that no matter how much I tighten them, the bars can still move relative to the forks, and it doesn't really feel like there is any more resistance/friction when I tighten them further; it seems to take the same amount of force no matter how tight they are. Should I be able to get it to a point where I have them tight enough where I can't move the bars relative to the forks at all even while straddling the front wheel? Thanks.
  • LJ.
    LJ. Posts: 149
    it's the stem bolts that are not tight enough if the handlebars move independantly when you have the front wheel wedged in between your legs, the top cap bolt has no effect on this, it sounds like it is too tight though if you say it is grinding afd not moving freely when you hold the bike in the air and move the handlebars
  • PXR5
    PXR5 Posts: 203
    As mentioned top bolt (which is in line with the forks and should be lightly done up first) just pulls the forks up into the headset to prevent slop, then you do up the two stem bolts, which are at right angles to the top bolt, to ensure that you bars dont move relative to the forks.
    There might be some torque settings marked, but if everything fits well it will not take much tightening to ensure it all stays well aligned.
    Have you taken it all apart and cleaned/greased the components ?? This could be the problem, either that or your just too bl00dy strong when trying to test your bars :shock:
    Every time I go out, I think I'm being checked out, faceless people watching on a TV screen.....
  • I think there might be some definition mixing going on here...

    Top cap bolt = the single vertical bolt that goes into the steerer tube.
    56826-largest_02_Top_cap_and_bolt.jpg

    Stem bolts = normally a pair of horizontal bolts that secure the stem to the steerer tube, also visible in the picture.

    Op might need to clarify, but I'm wondering if you are adjusting the top cap bolt, then tightening the stem bolts, then tightening the top cap bolt? if so, you are doing it wrong - you don't need to touch the top cap bolt after tightening the stem bolts.