Removing a pedal

paulbnix
paulbnix Posts: 632
edited June 2015 in Workshop
I have Shimano SPD M540 pedals on my bike.
I am changing them to A520 pedals because one is worn.
Or I should say I am trying to change the pedals because one is stuck.
I arranged the bike so the crank was firmly held in a clamp but have still managed to strip the hex head.

I'm not sure what to do next. I thought about drilling out and tried it but my drill bits made no impression.
Any suggestions please before I look for an LBS to do it.

Comments

  • doug5_10
    doug5_10 Posts: 465
    You are aware of LH thread on LH pedal . . . ?
    Edinburgh Revolution Curve
    http://app.strava.com/athletes/1920048
  • frisbee
    frisbee Posts: 691
    Might be able to hammer a torx bit in. Are you undoing it the right way? Left and right pedals have opposite threads and if you are undoing it from the back with an allen key that flips the direction you need to go.
  • paulbnix
    paulbnix Posts: 632
    I did ponder long and hard about the thread rotation and I'm sure it was right.
    I used a ratchet socket handle and after removing the first pedal I swapped the ratchet over.
  • stueys
    stueys Posts: 1,332
    I struggled with my pedals until I swapped my cheap pedal spanner for a park tool one. Have you got a spanner with sufficient leverage?
  • paulbnix
    paulbnix Posts: 632
    You can't use a spanner on M540 pedals as they only have a hex socket at the end of the axle.

    I think I will take the crank off and use brute force with a mole wrench - hopefully in the correct direction :?:
  • gethinceri
    gethinceri Posts: 1,660
    Apply heat, lots of it.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    I have M540's on one bike and M520's on the other. The cheaper 520's have the spanner flats as well as a hex socket while the 540's rely solely on the hex socket in the end of the axle. I've always been conscious of the fact and remove and copperslip the 540's annually.

    No use to you I know, but may be useful advice for others.

    As above, if you can clamp the thing in a bench vice and apply some heat it may make things easier. Stripping off the pedal body and using a stillson wrench on the axle may now be your least worst option...
  • homers_double
    homers_double Posts: 8,279
    Gethinceri wrote:
    Apply heat, lots of it.

    And when you fit new ones, use copper slip.
    Advocate of disc brakes.
  • crankycrank
    crankycrank Posts: 1,830
    Gethinceri wrote:
    Apply heat, lots of it.
    Agreed. A safe and easy method is to put the crank/pedal in the freezer for at least an hour and then pour boiling water on the alu around the pedal axle. If this doesn't work then break out the flames.
  • svetty
    svetty Posts: 1,904
    You definintely need to be 100% (not 99%) sure that you're turning it the correct way. If it's the NDS, put the pedal in a vice, slide a hollow pipe/scaffolding pole over the crank and you've enough leverage to loosen it. Drive side is harder if you can't separate the crank from the chainring spider but heating as advised above should help. Soak the thing in penetrating oil overnight (or cola) is another trick worth trying
    FFS! Harden up and grow a pair :D
  • paulbnix
    paulbnix Posts: 632
    It is the drive side that is stuck and that is normal RH thread.
    I removed the pedal body, froze the crank overnight and tried with the hot water and mole grips in the morning all to no avail.
    Its off down the LBS now and I'll find out next week if they have managed to free it.

    The new Shimano A520 pedals have a smaller hex head and some pedal spanner flats so I have bought a Park pedal spanner and some copper slip.
    Cheers and thanks for all your comments.

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