Going Tubeless with Sunringle Radium Wheels

gunny_bedford
gunny_bedford Posts: 347
edited October 2017 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi

I have recently purchased a Cube stereo 140 HPA pro with 650b wheels, which are Sunringle radiums apparently, but are obviously made for cube, they are shod with Schwalbe tubeless ready tyres, they are schrader valves.

I want to go tubeless so contacted sunringle to see what i needed to turn them tubeless, i got a reply from there tech support saying these wheels run on "inferno" rims that can't be tubeless converted ??

I am sure that is not the case, has anyone any previous experience with these wheels ? In the past i have been lucky enough that all my previous bikes which ran tubeless came with tubeless ready wheels that required little effort to convert, so i am not too sure how to progress with these ones, any help would be appreciated.

thanks Neil

Comments

  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Any rim can be tubeless converted, what makes you think these can't?

    Gorilla tape, valves and sealant.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • kinioo
    kinioo Posts: 776
    The Rookie wrote:
    Any rim can be tubeless converted, what makes you think these can't?

    Gorilla tape, valves and sealant.

    ^^this.

    This is what I recently did with my stock non tubeless rims and non tubeless tyres...sealant, valves and gorilla tape.

    C.
  • andrepepe
    andrepepe Posts: 35
    I did the same!

    Front wheel is working as a charm, no leak or so. However, the rear wheel (same rim and tyre, but in 2.4) is leaking on tyre sidewall.

    But Gorilla Tape + Old tube valve + Sealant + Compressor or CO2 Pump = Sucess

    Good luck
    Actual ride: Kona Satori 2012
    Custom Kona Dew Plus 2008

    Previous rides:
    - Giant Rapid One (Broken in a accident)
    - Scott Genius MC40 (Stolen)
    - Orange Sub-Five (Broke the frame)
    - Orange G3 (Sold)
    - Orange Crush (Sold)
  • Hello Neil and others,

    I update this post because I have the same wheels and can not set them up in tubeless. Despite one of my tyre is "tubeless ready" and many attempts with all usual tricks.
    Does anyone succeeded ? Or not ?

    Thanks.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    edited October 2017
    Tubeless ready tyres is pretty meaningless. If they won't go up tubeless then you've not done something right.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • The Rookie wrote:
    If they won't go up tubeless then you've not done something write.

    like what ?
    I combined strap, washing-up liquid, flap, compressor, tube set-up... I reach some pressure in the tyre, but they're is always air leakage.
    My tyres are 29, it looks more difficult and I read a lot of post from difficulties with the same kind of rim.
    Any idea ?
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Air is leaking from where?

    If the spoke holes, you need to check the tape.
    If tyre you need (more)(better) sealant.
    Between tyre and rim, you need to check the tape.
    I don't do smileys.

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  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    As CD says, address why (where) it's leaking, it won't inflate until you stop that!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Thanks !
    air is leaking between tyre and rim, looks like the space between makes what go inside find the outside instantly.
    The tape inside looks OK, it leaks first around the valve and when I handle to avoid it, it leak just beside.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    So you need to seal the valve properly and if its leaking between the tyre and rim you probably need another run of tape, as they rims aren't tubless setup you need to increase the diameter using the tape by enough for them to create enough of a seal to inflate up and complete the seal.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • OK thanks for advice, but I think the time I used a tube for flap had increased the rim diameter as a number of tape-run would do. And it didn't work like that too
    I think I should try more a powerful compressor ?
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    If the tyre bead is out to the rim's lip and not sealing then it's not enough tape, if you can never get it out to the lip it's too much!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • we don't understand each other, but thanks. I'll try again another day.