Sram force rear mech - missing something?
Bought a used force 10 speed set up for a cx bike I've built up, set it up according to what I've found on the web and following what I usually do for shimano groups. On the stand, everything is hunky dory, works up and down the cassette. But when I stand to pedal, the mech slips like a drunk with wet feet walking on ice. Doesn't happen with seated pedalling.
Now, it's a used mech, the shifters look like original force 10-speed ones. There is quite a lot of side to side play in the b-bolt - more movement than seems reasonable even when it's firmly attached to the mech hanger. I'm hoping I'm wrong but could this be causing the slippage? Mech just too old and needs replacing maybe? Or - and this is a long shot - is there something different to setting up SRAM compared to shimano that I've missed?
Now, it's a used mech, the shifters look like original force 10-speed ones. There is quite a lot of side to side play in the b-bolt - more movement than seems reasonable even when it's firmly attached to the mech hanger. I'm hoping I'm wrong but could this be causing the slippage? Mech just too old and needs replacing maybe? Or - and this is a long shot - is there something different to setting up SRAM compared to shimano that I've missed?
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No, gear change style. Chain and cassette are both brand new
Rose Pro-SL 2000 - Roadie
Nope - 10 speed chain. It's got to be the sideways play in the mech.
Rose Pro-SL 2000 - Roadie
Yep. Even checked the hanger wasn't bent.
side to side suggests it is moving in-out wrt to the plane of the wheel, or wobbling on the pivot, which would be a sign of a badly worn pivot bearing (i.e. a trashed rear mech)
or do you mean it is rotating around the pivot much too far? sram mechs have a collar with a tab that must seat against the hanger, the b-screw then adjusts distance between the upper wheel and the cassette (i.e. different to shimano) is the tab in the right place?
It's side to side unfortunately. Don't suppose there's any way to fix it?
Didn't SRAM modify the pivot design on later rear mechs? Because the initial design was prone to excess wear and premature farm buying?
Or have I had some kind of highly detailed, cycling mechanics related dream?
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you can disassemble the pivot and see exactly what has happened (if it's like red, there's a fiddly spring clip to remove then comes apart), maybe there's a way to sleeve it or something, or try the lbs bits box for a broken one to scavenge for parts
I have. No movement. I suppose I was clutching at straws really. When the mech is off the bike, there's probably a good mm at least of play in the joint. I'll have a look at it again tomorrow and if there's nothing to be done I'll probably get an apex mech off wiggle for £26.
Reckon yours is bent.
I reckon it's trashed. I tried to fix it at the weekend but couldn't get the b-bolt out so have up in the end and ordered a new apex mech. Someone else might have more luck with fixing it, it's for sale in the classifieds now.