Brakes Advice

armoureddrummer
armoureddrummer Posts: 145
edited August 2015 in Cyclocross
Hi all,

I have been using a spesh tricross as a commuter for the last year or so. I am really happy with the frame and relaxed geometry for general run around purposes. Unfortunately I am having real problems with the brakes.

I bought it second hand with a set of Planet X Frog Bollox cantis fitted. Sadly they have been a considerable disappointment. I have a set of mud guards fitted so cantis seem like the best option for clearance. However, even following our friend Sheldon's advice, I have lowed the braking angle to the most optimum I can, I have taken it to the LBS to get a pro to try fitting them, I have put on a set of Salmon brake pads and have fully scrubbed and degreased the rims. The result is they are still woeful in terms of braking.

I am now in a position where there are a number of considerations going through my mind which I would welcome anyone elses experience on:
1 - Are they just crap brakes?
2 - Are the stock rims the issue (Alex Rims)
3 - Is it because I ride on the rims and not the drops and I should suck it up (this one I find unlikely as my road bike calipers have mind blowing stopping power when riding on the hoods).
4 - Would mini V's be better with travel agents fitted? Taking into account I need mud guards?
5 - Are there any mudguards out there that accommodate reduced space on mini v style brakes?

Any advice welcomed before I spend anymore on failed attempts

Comments

  • redvee
    redvee Posts: 11,922
    Can't help with your current brakes but mini Vs and mudguards mix well, but I'm running 25c tyres so the guards are closer to the tyre and there is nearly 10mm between the cable and guard on my Tricross Single Speed.
    I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.
  • slam that stem
    slam that stem Posts: 104
    I have TRP Eurox brakes on my bike and these are copies of them. I love mine and did spend a lot ofTLC to get them to brake well, such as;

    Get some 72mm pads to increase the amount of friction on the braking surface: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Clarks-Post-Fit ... 1081015586

    Have a look at your cable housing - is it as short as possible while allowing the cable to run smoothly? You don't wanna waste hand energy compressing your housing. Have a look at this. Get Shimano housing if you redo them.

    Lastly, lower the straddle cable a bit a la Sheldon.

    Even look at where your levers are on the bars. Sometimes if you move them they're not in the best designed position. I can make a difference.

    Mine are awesome and on mtn decents (took the crosser to the Alpes) they can lock the back. I use Shimano wheels like Ultegras, RS80s or CL24s.

    Lastly, you can get some shorty V-brakes depending on your tyre choice and mud clearance reqts: http://www.jensonusa.com/!!tgMb0sd-RGAV ... Pull-Brake

    I bought 1 pair of these as a last resort but never had to fit them b/c of the steps above.

    Come back to us with progress...
    The titifers have sung their song.

    Now it's time for sleep.
  • Monty Dog
    Monty Dog Posts: 20,614
    If you don't need mud clearance, go for mini-vees and especially the ball-ache of trying to set up Euro-X or clones thereof which are tricky to run squeal-free without the judicious use of a big, adjustable spanner to bend them.
    Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..
  • armoureddrummer
    armoureddrummer Posts: 145
    Thanks guys

    I think I may have a set of mini v's that came with some parts the last guy took off the bike. I might check them out and try this as a test to see if it is worth investing in better ones.

    STS, what do you mean about cable housing? Are you basically saying that the less outer cable there is the better the brakes will work? I am running fairly tight on this because the cross top levers don't give much room for alternatives.
  • armoureddrummer
    armoureddrummer Posts: 145
    As promised an update for you.

    I took off the Planet X Frog Bollox (Which were Bollox!), and put on a set of Tektro RX5 with new cables/outers. Using stock pads I can lock up the rear wheel for the first time on this bike.

    I installed them with in-line adjusters for quick and easy wheel removal and it works a treat.

    I did need to attack my mud guards witha hack saw but it was worth it for some real stopping power.

    Summary:
    - do not use Planet X Frogs Bollox brakes
    - Mini V's do not clear SKS mud guards - you will need to botch
    - £16 mini V's are absolutely better than mid range cantis
    - I don't need to buy a bike set up for discs :-D

Categories