Fitting clincher tyres to SL23 rims

trek_dan
trek_dan Posts: 1,366
edited June 2015 in Workshop
Attempting to fit 25C Gp4000s2 to SL23's. So far I've wasted 2 hours, snapped 4 tyre levers and wrecked 2 tubes. I read online about setting the bead in the middle and working back to the valve but its still just too bloody tight. What else can I try? A few people have said to heat the tyre up with a hair dryer but I really don't want to resort to this, not like I can take a hair dryer on a ride with me :lol:

Comments

  • ugo.santalucia
    ugo.santalucia Posts: 28,271
    soap helps
    left the forum March 2023
  • src1
    src1 Posts: 301
    trek_dan wrote:
    Attempting to fit 25C Gp4000s2 to SL23's. So far I've wasted 2 hours, snapped 4 tyre levers and wrecked 2 tubes. I read online about setting the bead in the middle and working back to the valve but its still just too bloody tight. What else can I try? A few people have said to heat the tyre up with a hair dryer but I really don't want to resort to this, not like I can take a hair dryer on a ride with me :lol:

    I have the same rims and tyres. What rim tape are you using? I use 2 wraps of 12mm stans yellow and those tyres go on without using tyre levers.
  • Origami02
    Origami02 Posts: 147
    The right rim tape definitely makes a world of difference. If you're not running tubeless, use a tape wide enough to cover the spoke-holes but narrow enough not to sit under the tyre bead. An adhesive rim tape helps avoid the tyre displacing it during fitting.
    For tubeless, two wraps of Stans appears the accepted wisdom. Stretching the tyre, by fitting it to a conventional rim(and inflating) overnight can also help . On a day like today, leaving the tyre(but not the wheel) in the sun on the lawn for half an hour before fitting will help.
    Once you get one bead on, keep that bead in the central well of the rim whilst fitting the other bead.This gives you a bit more slack in the tyre work with, as the smaller central diameter of the rim puts less tension on the tyre.
    A bit of liquid soap on the bead and back(tyre bead side) of your levers helps too. I found that levers were only needed for the last few inches of the second bead.

    25C tyres go on easier than 23C, though tyre fitting technique is more important with these rims than most.
  • ugo.santalucia
    ugo.santalucia Posts: 28,271
    SRC1 wrote:
    I use 2 wraps of 12mm stans yellow

    Maybe 21 mm?
    left the forum March 2023
  • socrates
    socrates Posts: 453
    Took me 45 minutes to get the Veloflex tyres off. Easier to get on but maybe that was because they had already been fitted.
  • src1
    src1 Posts: 301
    ugo.santalucia wrote:
    SRC1 wrote:
    I use 2 wraps of 12mm stans yellow

    Maybe 21 mm?

    No, 12mm. I wanted it to just cover the spoke holes, but keep the rim clear for the tyre bead. Seems to work well.
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    the GP4000s is one of the easiest tyres to mount to these rims. It is possible without difficultly to do it by hand. If you are having trouble then it is because you are not chasing the tyre around the rim. Grab the tyre opposite to the tight spot and squeeze in with both hand while pulling it apart and move your hands around the tyre pulling it as you go (easier to show you rather than describe). this moves slack round to the tight spot. This enables you to get the tyre over the rim with ease.

    In some cases it the tyre/rim combo and no ammount of technique helps but this is not one of those cases. Modify your technique and ditch the tyre levers. I would be happy to show you if you are near suffolk.

    I tried veloflex on these rims and even for me it was hard and I am quite good at fitting tyres.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • trek_dan
    trek_dan Posts: 1,366
    Thanks for help everyone. Will give some soapy water and different method a try. Would be awesome if someone did a Youtube video showing proper technique? Would be popular as loads of queries along the same line on other forums.
  • trek_dan
    trek_dan Posts: 1,366
    thecycleclinic wrote:
    Grab the tyre opposite to the tight spot and squeeze in with both hand while pulling it apart and move your hands around the tyre pulling it as you go (easier to show you rather than describe). this moves slack round to the tight spot. This enables you to get the tyre over the rim with ease.

    Same as this method?
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XUFVrl0UT4
  • svetty
    svetty Posts: 1,904
    I'll admit SL23s are a bit of a b****r to get clinchers on but as has been said it is doable without levers if you ensure that the beads sit in the well at the centre of the rim and 'milk' the slack around to the last bit of bead to go on(at the valve).

    You need to make sure you can do this as if not you're screwed if you puncture on them :)
    FFS! Harden up and grow a pair :D
  • trek_dan
    trek_dan Posts: 1,366
    Well I got them on eventually - certainly not easy or pleasant. My friend lent me a long Var tyre lever with a flat back in combination with soapy water and releasing the slack managed to get tyres on ok (just).

    Will do for now but have ordered up the parts to go tubeless as I really wouldn't like to fix a puncture in the middle of nowhere. No point having an expensive set of wheels and being too scared to use them for fear of puncturing.

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