1x10 on a 26er

D4V1D

Hi as the title, what 1x10 ratios would work best on a 26er, or would I be better off with a 2x. I need a low ratio for a couple of 9% & 10 % climbs.
Thanks.

njee20

10% isn't particularly steep on a mountain bike.

I ran 36t, with an 11-36 cassette, worked for me. YMMV.

poah

njee20 wrote:

I ran 36t, with an 11-36 cassette, worked for me. YMMV.

while unfit gits like me run a 30t, 11-40

D4V1D

Thanks, So it's a bit of a suck it and see. I currently run a 9 speed on rear, will a 10 speed fit the same carrier? many thanks.

paul.skibum

10 speed will fit the same freehub as 9 speed. You can work out the ratio's you currently use - for example if you currently have a low ratio front cog of 22 and a standard 11-32t rear cassette your lowest ratio is 1.454 - a 30t front with an 11-36t cassette would give a 1.2 ratio / 30t to 11-40 would give 1.333, 30t to 11-42 cassette would be 1.4.

So you can work out which gears you use most often and for extended periods and decide how low a ratio you want. Its worth noting that a 30t front with an 11-42 spins out pretty early on the road or flat trails.

The Rookie

If you have a 3x9, and can do all your riding on the middle ring, then you can go 1x, I run 1x9 on my MTB, moderately fit 48yo and I have a 32t and 11:34, I could possible cope with a 34t up front, but not certain enough to make the jump yet.

D4V1D

Some interesting reading, I'm also 42 & moderately fit (scoring well on strava). Just lately I've been limited to the middle chain ring due to a stretched chain & noticed that I could climb faster rather than using the smallest chain ring. New chain was fitted today, so I'll have a test tomorrow. I think im running a 32 front & 34-11 9speed rear
When I get on the open road with the wind in my favour I run out of rearing using the 32 11.

I think I've changed my mind and leaning towards a 2 x 9 speed, just to have a good spread of ratios.

J0s3e

2x9 works best for me, bash-36-24 up front and 11-28 slx cassette.
Amazing spread of ratios, no problems with chain falling off, always have the gear I need, short arm rear mech.
No point in going 1x10, especially if you have one bike to do it all. Maybe if I had downhill bike, I'd consider 1x10 with a chain device, but not until then.

njee20

See I'd say no point going 2x9 with a close ratio block... Personally I find close blocks really irritating, just means shifting multiple gears every time, and shifting more on the front.

Ferrals

I have to agree that an obsession with close ratios seems more relevant to road. On my expanded 1-by-10 I occasionally notice the 36-42 jump but only occasionally. The sheer ease of not thinking about front shifting is worth it.

The Rookie

No real benefit of 2x9 over 3x9, especially if you run a narrower range cassette!

njee20

Depends on your ring choices.

Id rather have a 28/40 double than 22/32/44 triple.

D4V1D

My bike, currently used as a XC commuter, 9 miles to work on B roads and 1/2 of that is off road through a steep'ish forest up & down, plus a lovely green lane up & down. My current gears are toasted jumping/slipping when I put the power down. So I need to buy replacement parts (offsetting diesel money for cycle parts).
i) 90% of the time I'm fine with the ratio 32, 34-11 9speed wide range.
ii) 3% I'm pulling for a lower ratio to climb a technical short steep, rooted section in the forest and on a strava section called heart attack hill especially when it's wet. but I've been forced to stay on the middle ring and improved my climbing times. but feel burnt out at the top.
iii) 7% I'm running out of rotation speed 32 11 when on the road ( when the dirrection wind is right or especially drafting one of the many tractors about 25mph).

I have a 2010 spec bike, long Dero xt mech which I have snagged twice breaking the hanger. So I now carry a spare with me.

My plan is to have a full on service plan, replacing the BB, front drive & rear cassette, shorter rear mech (maybe nine to ten (or push the boat out to 11 but that means new wheel or something )).

I defo need help.

paulmon

I recently went from 3x9 on my full suss and 2x10 on my hardtail to 1x10 on both using the Hope 40t. At the front I have gone to 32 on the full suss and 34' on the hardtail and haven't had any problems getting up anything. The biggest benefit is less clutter, less noise and no more dropped chains on descents which was happening all the time on the 3x9.

If you really want a low gear go 30 upfront with a 40 or 42 at the back. You should get up anything but depending on the riding you do you might find yourself spinning out on the flat. The 30t hope can also be more problematic to fit by all accounts whereas the 32 and 34 fit straight onto the chainring without any additional bolts.

If you want Shimano you will need the XT cassette and either the SLX or XT rear mech with the clutch. Also you might need extra BB spacers to get the chain line correct.

D4V1D

This is my typical riding.

https://www.strava.com/activities/303036024/analysis

paulmon

D4V1D wrote:

This is my typical riding.

https://www.strava.com/activities/303036024/analysis

I don't think 1x10 will give you enough gears as you will spin out on the road with 32x11 quite easily but by your own admission struggle up some fairly innocuous hills. In which case a double with a 38 or 40 outer ring to give you speed on the road and a 26 or 24 inner ring to get you up the hills. You should be able to get a Shimano based setup using a mix of Deore and SLX 10 speed bits for less than £150.

The Rookie

You should be able to spin fast enough to top 30mph on a 32:11, on a regular section I ride I'm holding 32-34mph on 32:11 for about 2 miles (2.15" tyres).

Chunkers1980

I can't. But I think I press harder rather than using cadence

FishFish

The Rookie wrote:

You should be able to spin fast enough to top 30mph on a 32:11, on a regular section I ride I'm holding 32-34mph on 32:11 for about 2 miles (2.15" tyres).

Wow - impressed!

The Rookie

njee20 wrote:

Depends on your ring choices.

Id rather have a 28/40 double than 22/32/44 triple.

With a fairly normal MTB cassette, yes, if you get to road cassette range width, I'd suggest not.

njee20

Oh yeah, but I'd rather not have a close ratio cassette regardless of chainrings!

Did flirt with 12-27s for some flat courses years ago, but it's just a bit pointless IMO.

D4V1D

The Rookie wrote:

You should be able to spin fast enough to top 30mph on a 32:11, on a regular section I ride I'm holding 32-34mph on 32:11 for about 2 miles (2.15" tyres).

What bike are you riding?
When I get up to 19 mph on the flat (using a 26" wheel ) I've maxed out my cadence with 32-11 gear ratio. There is no way I'd get close to 30 mph on the flat.

Thinking of a 38/26 up front ((need to dismantle mine to check sizes) or take it in to LBS for a quote lol). then sticking with a 9 speed replacement 34-11 rear cassette. then maybe a smaller caged rear mech and double mech on the front.

would these items work well together? Shimano XT M785 10 Speed & Shimano XT M770 9 Speed Cassette

step83

No need for a new front mech just adjust yours so it wont shift any higher than the middle ring. An I dont think youll be able to get away with a short cage mech on a large cassette the arm may simply not have enough reach.

gearing on mine is 2X9 36-26 up front 32-11 on the back, I can push it on the flat and get just under 30mph before overspinning. Hills I can chug up most im more the limiting factor than the bike to be honest and ive ploughed up steeper than 11%.

Have you considered focusing on riding hills first? I used to avoid them like the plague now I actively go looking for them. Like decents you have to remember right gear, right speed and right position on the bike.

The Rookie

D4V1D wrote:

The Rookie wrote:

You should be able to spin fast enough to top 30mph on a 32:11, on a regular section I ride I'm holding 32-34mph on 32:11 for about 2 miles (2.15" tyres).

What bike are you riding?
When I get up to 19 mph on the flat (using a 26" wheel ) I've maxed out my cadence with 32-11 gear ratio. There is no way I'd get close to 30 mph on the flat.

Clearly the bike is irrelevant, also flat or downhill as it's the ability to spin your legs that matters, but it's the Niota linked to in my sig, 100rpm is about 23mph, for short periods you should be able to spin upto 150rpm, a friend who rides SS I have logs of him spinning at nearly 200rpm (on that same stretch he's doing about 27mph on a 32:16 29er)

D4V1D

Well I'll put some pic's up when it's all fitted. I've decided on a 1x10 34 40-11, using a Trex. I hope it works out just as good as I think it will.