Solution for flared headset

loudog

I brought an old vintage frame from eBay that I intend to make into a pretty thing.

Thing is, the headset is flared. The new headset cups go in with next to no force. Although there is actually only a tiny fraction of a mm play. Its a threaded headset so the forks will be threaded tight, clamping both ends to the frame.

Any solutions or anything that can solve / help?

mikenetic

You have several options you could try.

If it's a slip fit, so the cup can just about be inserted by hand you could use a bearing compound like Loctite 638. This is effectively a glue that can fill gaps and hold the headset cup in place.

You could look for a headset that has cups with a deep insertion length in the hope that you can press past the flared part of the head tube and press into a correctly sized area of the tube.

A knurling tool could be used to create a diamond pattern on the outside bore of the cup. These create a diamond pattern on the surface, but importantly they actually make the piece wider, effectively by squeezing the material to form ridges.

Finally, Chris King can make oversized diameter cups to deal with problematic head tubes. Not cheap, though, obviously.

Good luck

nicklouse

LouDog wrote:

I brought an old vintage frame from eBay that I intend to make into a pretty thing.

Thing is, the headset is flared. The new headset cups go in with next to no force. Although there is actually only a tiny fraction of a mm play. Its a threaded headset so the forks will be threaded tight, clamping both ends to the frame.

Any solutions or anything that can solve / help?

Are you sure you have the correct headset?

Presuming 1" threaded headset you know there are two different standards?

Have a read http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-hel ... et-service

mikenetic

nicklouse wrote:

LouDog wrote:

I brought an old vintage frame from eBay that I intend to make into a pretty thing.

Thing is, the headset is flared. The new headset cups go in with next to no force. Although there is actually only a tiny fraction of a mm play. Its a threaded headset so the forks will be threaded tight, clamping both ends to the frame.

Any solutions or anything that can solve / help?

Are you sure you have the correct headset?

Presuming 1" threaded headset you know there are two different standards?

Have a read http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-hel ... et-service

Oh aye, the good old Japanese v European inch standard. Ridiculous to have two sizes so close together!

loudog

Unless the next size up is 1".1/32, I'm sure I have the correct size. Infant I think it was a bike shop that gave me back the frame and told me what was up. Nice ideas mikenetic, thought about glue but not so keen for obvious reasons. Think i'll get a burring tool for my drill and give that a blast first!

mikenetic

LouDog wrote:

Unless the next size up is 1".1/32, I'm sure I have the correct size. Infant I think it was a bike shop that gave me back the frame and told me what was up. Nice ideas mikenetic, thought about glue but not so keen for obvious reasons. Think i'll get a burring tool for my drill and give that a blast first!

Whoah Nelly, not a burring tool! That'll just remove metal, making things worse. Try the bearing compound first, I've used that with good results on an old frame. It's relatively cheap and non-destructive, which is always a good place to start

keef66

Faced with a similar problem tarting up an old Peugeot with my son, I made shims with strips cut from a beer can. Not a very durable solution, just the cheapest way to get him on the road. Glad I didn't throw more money at it; he got bored with the DT shifters and bought himself a Felt F95 from Wiggle...

loudog

ok ok, lactate it is.

Thought about shimming it but the gap is so minute I really don't think anything would fit in

cheers boys!